PROJECT: LS1 RX-7 Build
PROJECT: LS1 RX-7 Build BUILD INFO:
The donor Car is a 98 Trans Am LS1 4l60E (Auto). I was looking for an auto since I have a bad left hip but to make it more enjoyable I am installing a pretty trick paddle shift set up. More to come on that in the future.
The LS1 will be mildly modified and should be enough to keep me happy for at least one season.
RECIPIENT:
The LS1 is going into my 1993 RX7 which has about 34K miles (56K kms) on it. The car ran perfect and strong so I was able to sell the motor and tranny for good money.
DONOR:
Here is the donor. It was bought from a local guy who bought it from someone on this board.
The donor Car is a 98 Trans Am LS1 4l60E (Auto). I was looking for an auto since I have a bad left hip but to make it more enjoyable I am installing a pretty trick paddle shift set up. More to come on that in the future.
The LS1 will be mildly modified and should be enough to keep me happy for at least one season.
RECIPIENT:
The LS1 is going into my 1993 RX7 which has about 34K miles (56K kms) on it. The car ran perfect and strong so I was able to sell the motor and tranny for good money.
DONOR:
Here is the donor. It was bought from a local guy who bought it from someone on this board.
STRIPPING OF THE TRANS AM (As an F-Body fan this was not easy for me to do)
In the air draining all the fluids and disconnecting crap...
Engine bay with everything out of the way so we can drop the cradle.
Cradle unbolted so lifting the car on the hoist while the cradle stays on the floor. Raise the body by a couple of inches at a time and check to see if anything is still connected or catching on something.
In the air draining all the fluids and disconnecting crap...
Engine bay with everything out of the way so we can drop the cradle.
Cradle unbolted so lifting the car on the hoist while the cradle stays on the floor. Raise the body by a couple of inches at a time and check to see if anything is still connected or catching on something.
Comp Cams 918 Valve Spring install:
Since a cam is going in a had to upgrade the springs and pushrods....
Here is a pic of one of the heads with the valve cover off:
Here are the rockers and pushrods removed.
The head with the rockers and pushrods removed...
New springs...
In order for the valves not to fall in the Cyl when you remove the springs you have to force compressed air into each cyl through the sparkplug socket. The air basically pins the valvs closed so they dont drop. Here it is set up in the first cyl...
Here is a picture of the valve spring compressor hooked up to one of the stock valve springs. The first two springs have already been swapped out for the new stronger springs.
Here is one of the stock springs, retainer and locks...
Repeat for all 16 springs.
Since a cam is going in a had to upgrade the springs and pushrods....
Here is a pic of one of the heads with the valve cover off:
Here are the rockers and pushrods removed.
The head with the rockers and pushrods removed...
New springs...
In order for the valves not to fall in the Cyl when you remove the springs you have to force compressed air into each cyl through the sparkplug socket. The air basically pins the valvs closed so they dont drop. Here it is set up in the first cyl...
Here is a picture of the valve spring compressor hooked up to one of the stock valve springs. The first two springs have already been swapped out for the new stronger springs.
Here is one of the stock springs, retainer and locks...
Repeat for all 16 springs.
CAM, TIMING CHAIN & OIL PUMP INSTALL:
After buying the 3 jaw puller I was able to get the balancer off…
Front cover off…
Next came time to remove the oil pump. I removed the bolts and tried to remove it like I read to do but it would not budge. Quick chat with my buddy who helps me with my projects and stupid me didn’t remove the oil pick-up. As a result I had to remove the oil pan. This meant lifting the motor.
Removed most of the bolts on the oil pan at this point. Enough for me to be able to reach in and unbolt the pick-up at the pump. 1st pic is of the old pump, 2nd pic is with pump removed…
Now that the pump is removed I can remove the upper timing gear by removing the 3 bolts. Before doing that though I had to align the timing marks on the gears.
Under that is the cam retainer. Basically just a plate held in by 4 bolts that holds the cam in place. Once that is done I turn the cam around a few times which pushes up the lifters cathing them on a plastic roller-lifter retainer. This is a cool feature of the LSx series motor. Once that is done I carefully slide the old cam out…
New cam (Texas Speed and Performance 228R cam)…
Here is the new cam going in (sort of). After this picture though I noticed something and had to remove it and put it back in correctly since I was putting it in backwards. LOL
Here is a pic of the new Melling oil pump and the Cloyes LS2 timing chain on the left.
And finally here is a pic with the new cam, LS2 timing chain and Melling high pressure oil pump installed…
After buying the 3 jaw puller I was able to get the balancer off…
Front cover off…
Next came time to remove the oil pump. I removed the bolts and tried to remove it like I read to do but it would not budge. Quick chat with my buddy who helps me with my projects and stupid me didn’t remove the oil pick-up. As a result I had to remove the oil pan. This meant lifting the motor.
Removed most of the bolts on the oil pan at this point. Enough for me to be able to reach in and unbolt the pick-up at the pump. 1st pic is of the old pump, 2nd pic is with pump removed…
Now that the pump is removed I can remove the upper timing gear by removing the 3 bolts. Before doing that though I had to align the timing marks on the gears.
Under that is the cam retainer. Basically just a plate held in by 4 bolts that holds the cam in place. Once that is done I turn the cam around a few times which pushes up the lifters cathing them on a plastic roller-lifter retainer. This is a cool feature of the LSx series motor. Once that is done I carefully slide the old cam out…
New cam (Texas Speed and Performance 228R cam)…
Here is the new cam going in (sort of). After this picture though I noticed something and had to remove it and put it back in correctly since I was putting it in backwards. LOL
Here is a pic of the new Melling oil pump and the Cloyes LS2 timing chain on the left.
And finally here is a pic with the new cam, LS2 timing chain and Melling high pressure oil pump installed…
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The Trans Am had more damage than it looks in the pics. Not to say it couldnt have been fixed but it was right on the edge of being worth it or not.
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Verdad Gallardo IMPROVED RACING ROAD RACE BAFFLE:
Installed the road racing baffle in the oil pan and put the motor back together...
Here is some info on the baffle...
http://www.improvedracing.com/produc...17672c71593f42
I have the old style but it should work great.
Comparo...
In the pan...
Motor all put back together...
And finally we worked on gutting the Trans Am some more. Here is about 1/2 of the wiring we took out. Swapping all of this over to the RX-7 is gonna be fun. LOL
Installed the road racing baffle in the oil pan and put the motor back together...
Here is some info on the baffle...
http://www.improvedracing.com/produc...17672c71593f42
I have the old style but it should work great.
Comparo...
In the pan...
Motor all put back together...
And finally we worked on gutting the Trans Am some more. Here is about 1/2 of the wiring we took out. Swapping all of this over to the RX-7 is gonna be fun. LOL
Quick Release Steering Wheel
This was not as easy as it seems. The hub kept hitting the steering surround so I had to have it machined. Had to put in a resistor so the airbag warning system would not go off. Also had to hook up the horn and rewire the cruise control which was on the stock steering wheel. Not sure where I will mount the cruise control buttons but I will deal with that later. Hell I might not even install cruise.
This was not as easy as it seems. The hub kept hitting the steering surround so I had to have it machined. Had to put in a resistor so the airbag warning system would not go off. Also had to hook up the horn and rewire the cruise control which was on the stock steering wheel. Not sure where I will mount the cruise control buttons but I will deal with that later. Hell I might not even install cruise.
DRIVETRAIN
Headers installed…
Here is the fun part. Getting the motor/tranny into the RX-7. I am going to leave out a LOT of the details but you guys wouldn’t be interested in them anyway. Here we go.
Stock Subframe still in the car...
We decided to drop the subframe rather than put the motor in from the top.
Starting to remove everything needed to drop the subframe...
Like magic the subframe is out of the car...
My buddy removing suspension parts from he stock subframe...
New Hinsons Super Car FD LS1 Subframe...
New subframe with the suspension parts swapped onto it...
Subframe bolted on to the engine...
Okay so now we had to figure out a way to be able to move the motor and tranny around so we can line it up correctly when lowering the car. What better way than a dolly, a steel wheel and some wood. LOL This was not a good idea but we really had no other option and it ended up working fine.
After taking our time and lowering the car inch by inch we were able to bolt in the subframe from underneath the car..
Next was time to install the tranny brace. You can see it in the middle of this picture with the bolt sticking out the middle of it...
Next we had t install the driveshaft and the torque arm. This was a royal pain in the *** trying to get everything lined up. In fact the torque arm still hits all along the tranny tunnel. I am doing some research right now and it looks like this is common. Time to get out the BFH and move the tranny tunnel a bit.
And finally here it is in the car...
Headers installed…
Here is the fun part. Getting the motor/tranny into the RX-7. I am going to leave out a LOT of the details but you guys wouldn’t be interested in them anyway. Here we go.
Stock Subframe still in the car...
We decided to drop the subframe rather than put the motor in from the top.
Starting to remove everything needed to drop the subframe...
Like magic the subframe is out of the car...
My buddy removing suspension parts from he stock subframe...
New Hinsons Super Car FD LS1 Subframe...
New subframe with the suspension parts swapped onto it...
Subframe bolted on to the engine...
Okay so now we had to figure out a way to be able to move the motor and tranny around so we can line it up correctly when lowering the car. What better way than a dolly, a steel wheel and some wood. LOL This was not a good idea but we really had no other option and it ended up working fine.
After taking our time and lowering the car inch by inch we were able to bolt in the subframe from underneath the car..
Next was time to install the tranny brace. You can see it in the middle of this picture with the bolt sticking out the middle of it...
Next we had t install the driveshaft and the torque arm. This was a royal pain in the *** trying to get everything lined up. In fact the torque arm still hits all along the tranny tunnel. I am doing some research right now and it looks like this is common. Time to get out the BFH and move the tranny tunnel a bit.
And finally here it is in the car...
Last edited by NTIMD8; Nov 10, 2009 at 10:31 PM.
OIL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT
I had to get an RX-7 oil pressure sending unit to go on the LS1 motor. There is a fitting just over the oil filter that I took off and tapped it by 1/8 NPT to fit the sending unit on. Problem is it would have ended up hitting the header so I had to buy some adapters...
Lots of room....
I had to get an RX-7 oil pressure sending unit to go on the LS1 motor. There is a fitting just over the oil filter that I took off and tapped it by 1/8 NPT to fit the sending unit on. Problem is it would have ended up hitting the header so I had to buy some adapters...
Lots of room....
This post brings us up to date in terms of where I am on the build...
EXHAUST FABRICATION
This was very time consuming. Lots of trial and error, cutting, welding test fitting. Took about 8 hours of work to get everything just right.
Here are most of the parts...
Tacking everything into place...
Unbolt it in order to weld it all together...
Time to make the Cat-back portion...
Here is the system from front to back. We still need weld the cat back all together and then remove it all and paint it with some high temp black paint. Then install the tip (3.5" Dolphin Tail Tip).
Tip cut and welded on...
Then applied some high-temp paint...
EXHAUST FABRICATION
This was very time consuming. Lots of trial and error, cutting, welding test fitting. Took about 8 hours of work to get everything just right.
Here are most of the parts...
Tacking everything into place...
Unbolt it in order to weld it all together...
Time to make the Cat-back portion...
Here is the system from front to back. We still need weld the cat back all together and then remove it all and paint it with some high temp black paint. Then install the tip (3.5" Dolphin Tail Tip).
Tip cut and welded on...
Then applied some high-temp paint...
Your project is going to be great. I've been a huge RX7 gen 1 and 3 fan since '78 when my dad brought one home. I got a little queasy when I read you only had 35k miles on the gen3, but i keep telling myself its all about driving the car you like rather than collecting and letting it sit in the garage.
have you considered a body mount torque arm? Might not be needed with such a light car.
have you considered a body mount torque arm? Might not be needed with such a light car.
10 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: franklin tn
this is an awesome swap. im new to site but cars have been my life. i was a service writer at a mazda dealer here and we replaced those junk rotary motors everyday with less than 30k on em!!!!!!!! i currently have a 90 iroc with ls1. hoping for 10.50s this weekend. good luck with the details. btw, what kind of power will that rear end handle?
Your project is going to be great. I've been a huge RX7 gen 1 and 3 fan since '78 when my dad brought one home. I got a little queasy when I read you only had 35k miles on the gen3, but i keep telling myself its all about driving the car you like rather than collecting and letting it sit in the garage.
have you considered a body mount torque arm? Might not be needed with such a light car.
have you considered a body mount torque arm? Might not be needed with such a light car.
I bought this car knowing that I was going to drop an LS1 into it. I was trying to blow my engine and kept throwing mods at it. It was running low 12's at 116mph and the god dam thing wouldnt let go. The day I sold it the motor and tranny were still perfect. LOL
Depends on what I put it through. I will never run slick so I figure I will be okay with 400rwhp but you never really know. After I do heads I think I will be pushing it. Some stock rear end vettes hold up to 600hp and others let go at stock power levels. It's a crap shoot I guess.
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
keep it coming, I did my ls2 rx7 conversion a year or two ago. fun car, i dont drive it everyday, I need my license. but everytime i do, oh boy... if you want the stock rx7 shifter, i think i have one thats an automatic. i put my motor in from the bottom too, with the headers on etc. i put the gto dash cluster in the car along with the bcm, and hooked up the gas tank sending unit,
keep it coming, I did my ls2 rx7 conversion a year or two ago. fun car, i dont drive it everyday, I need my license. but everytime i do, oh boy... if you want the stock rx7 shifter, i think i have one thats an automatic. i put my motor in from the bottom too, with the headers on etc. i put the gto dash cluster in the car along with the bcm, and hooked up the gas tank sending unit,
