Any reason why the vette accessories couldn't be used on a truck motor while retaining the trucks balancer and water pump and shimming the acc's out 1.5". It seems the belt depth of the truck/vette balancer is the same. I need to retain truck balancer due to VVT and would prefer to retain truck wtr pmp.

 

anyone?

 

Try giving Mast Motorsports (site sponsor) a call, I know they sell spacers for this type of swap.

 

I don`t see why you could not run the truck water pump and balancer, with vette accys. I know that has been done with vette accys and a f-body balancer with the accys spaced 0.75" out, but theres no reason I see it would not work with a truck balancer and 1.5" spacing.

 

Before I fire up my pocket 5 axis CNC machine, does anyone make said water pump spacer? I have a situation where a Camaro / Corvette water pump would be really handy for the upper position vs. the truck unit.

 

Check wih S&P, I think I saw spacers on their website.
If you cant find them, you could always swap the pulley.

 

I thought that is where I saw them since they either make or have access to everything else but now I can't find it. Doesn't help that their website and catalog are a complete cluster...

Pulley swap isn't an option, I want something that can be replaced in the field with simple hand tools. If you and your friends have ever been stranded on a highway 45 miles from the nearest small town by some $30 part you know what I mean. Fortunately he drove a common car with a common engine so the small town parts store had what we needed.

 

That's why I bought another truck water pump pulley for $20 and made a spare pump assembly. It's in the jack compartment. I did the same thing with the only other custom part, a tensioner pulley.

 

Might also consider just getting the vette water pump before spending money on spacers.

 

I thought the Vette and F-Body pump were the same part #. The auto parts store I went to had them listed as the same and it had a wide pulley to adjust for the different spacing of the accessories between the two engines. My original plan was to slide the pulley forward enough to use a car pump with the truck setup. Since I had already built but the accessory drive around the truck crank pulley and my 3 jaw puller wouldn't reach I opted for the simplicity of a truck WP instead.

I have the means to fabricate the spacers by hand but they would be easier and possibly cheaper time wise to buy. I also hadn't thought of the spacer idea until I had the car complete and running so I can't take back the truck WP in good faith. Since all I can find are Gen I spacers, I probably will just fab up a couple and be done, then use the truck WP on another project.

 

The aftermarket F body and vette pumps are the same now, they use a pulley with an extended "skirt" to work on both. I'm not sure if the OEM GM pumps are the same though.
I've never been able to remove the f body pulleys without destroying them. A 3 jaw puller wont get under the extended skirt. But I guess you could make a jig to work in a press.
Let me know if you find spacers.

 

Sending you a PM...

 

Thank you!!

 

I kinda thought they were the same. The possibility of damaging the pump and tossing $150 made me not spend the $ to buy a bigger puller and try it. Between not fitting under the pulley AND not reaching with the variable of destroying an out of box new pump = not worth it.

These guys have spacers - BUT they want $200 for them. I can do a LOT of drilling, cutting and grinding for that kind of cash. All I need to do is move the WP forward the required amount and don't even need the third bracket. Heck, I may even be able to convince a machinist buddy to run me off a pair for less than that. On the flip side, if they were $50 I would have a set in the mail right now!

 

The f body pump survives, it's the long skirted pulley that gets destroyed. I cut notches to get a 3 jaw puller under it. But unlike the truck pulley, the 3 jaw puller wouldn't move it. I had to use a cutoff wheel to cut through the side of the pulley, including the area that surrounds the shaft. Then the puller was able to remove it.
The spacers look easy to make, the most complicated part looks like the contouring of the outside. Btw, modifying the f body pump with the truck pulley was an easy choice for me. I had clearance problems with the heater inlet/outlet and the A arm. So the fittings had to be removed and holes tapped.
Easiest solution was to make a spare.

 

I believe the new '10 Camaro (AUTO) waterpump will bolt right on with correct belt alignment.

 

The best place for the waterpump spacers is Wegner Motorsports.Inc.
Phone #920-394-3557. Web is www.wegnerautomotive.com. These are the guys that make the LS distributor swap parts. I had them make a pair for me when I was building the accessory drive for my 6.0 powered '34 coupe. My ticket says I paid $40.00 for the pair in 2008. Just give them a call, they will cut them whatever thickness you want. Mine were 1/2" but the ones on the distributor swap look to be up to 3". Ron

 

I was wondering about your logic on that when I saw the pics. My setup is pretty straight forward and I really want to move the upper radiator hose for convenience (air pocket / bleed during fill) and aesthetics in this swap.

THAT sounds reasonable. The ones they stock are a "little" long at 2 13/16"! I'll take some measurements, ring them and see what they can do.