LS Mustang Coupe
i saw that on Summit. the victor jr and box was $699 and the performer RPM was $649.. I also did a little (very little) research and i think some people use the MSD 6010.
I would agree, except that now there's no telling how much is the engine, and how much is everything else, from the trans to the atmospheric conditions. With dyno results, every variable is eliminated or specified and accounted for. Lots of parts combinations can run high 9s in a perfect chassis and good weather, so this still doesn't prove very much. For this to be helpful, all the other info needs to be specified, from converter stall to barometric pressure. Quicker, cheaper and easier to do on a dyno than travel to a track, sit in the lanes, go through tech, and so on.
Quicker,cheaper,easier???
I made 8 runs last Saturday on a prepped track for 35 bucks, could have made many more.
Engine dyno's can give real data as to HP/torque, this I will agree with. Engine dyno time is not cheap,quick or easy.
Chassis dyno's are a tuning tool nothing more. They cannot or should not be used to compare one vehicle to another. A loose stall automatic with drag slicks will not produce very good numbers compared to a street driven manual car and the dyno does not eliminate or account for these variables.
If you were to chassis dyno my combo it would probaly produce low to mid 400's. What does that prove, nothing! there are tricks that can be done to produce higher numbers, the good operators know, but will not admit it.
Try to trick a dragstrip into producing a fast ET.
The DA last week was +300 ft, my combo is optimized for index racing.
"lots of combo's can run nines in a perfect chassis and good weather"
really??? has yours? Are you saying the Mustang is a perfect chassis?
I have all stock suspension components down to the auto zone shocks.
just an airbag in the right spring.
The point I am making here is that a junkyard 6.0 with bone stock L92's and a cam/carb can run 9's at 135+ in a stock mustang chassis, on pump gas, and you want dyno numbers, would not prove a thing.
In fact my carb builder suggested it would be waste of time to run his high emulsion design on a chassis dyno as it would not properly load the engine!
Sorry to the OP, did not mean to get off track with your thread.
Dave
oooof I'd do a ls3 with milled heads, a nice cam, 1 7/8 headers, ported stock intake and the t56 with a lightweight dual disc. Stock hood, mild chop at idle, smooth power from idle to 7K, 550 rwhp, and it will be a blast on the street with the 6spd. I'm only at 425whp with my cam only ls2 and the car is super fun to drive and will surprise the **** out of people with how it runs. If the ls2 gives up sometime I will go with a n/a LS3.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: New Port Richey, FL
oooof I'd do a ls3 with milled heads, a nice cam, 1 7/8 headers, ported stock intake and the t56 with a lightweight dual disc. Stock hood, mild chop at idle, smooth power from idle to 7K, 550 rwhp, and it will be a blast on the street with the 6spd. I'm only at 425whp with my cam only ls2 and the car is super fun to drive and will surprise the **** out of people with how it runs. If the ls2 gives up sometime I will go with a n/a LS3.
That is exactly what I was looking for. That is about what I was looking for. Figure that most people won't give it two thoughts if it has tail pipes and the 5.0 emblems on the side
As much as I'd love to buy one my K member is 2 months old. I don't really wanna have to change anything else. I'm no dummy at fabricating just would like bolt in but for 400 I'll do it myself.
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I might be confusing some facts after having reviewed a lot of Fox-body swap threads but I thought I'd read that the AJE piece is designed primarily for drag/straight line applications.
Is it strong enough to handle repeated cornering forces?
TIA.
Tipsy
Is the AJE K-member suitable for a car that will essentially be a daily driver?
I might be confusing some facts after having reviewed a lot of Fox-body swap threads but I thought I'd read that the AJE piece is designed primarily for drag/straight line applications.
Is it strong enough to handle repeated cornering forces?
TIA.
Tipsy
I might be confusing some facts after having reviewed a lot of Fox-body swap threads but I thought I'd read that the AJE piece is designed primarily for drag/straight line applications.
Is it strong enough to handle repeated cornering forces?
TIA.
Tipsy
are there any ls1 mounts out there that will work with a maximum motorsports K member?
I have a 1989 mustang coupe with maximum motorsports tubular front end package. I just bought the car as a roller to do the ls1 swap on. If at all posible I would like to use this K member.
I have a 1989 mustang coupe with maximum motorsports tubular front end package. I just bought the car as a roller to do the ls1 swap on. If at all posible I would like to use this K member.
are there any ls1 mounts out there that will work with a maximum motorsports K member?
I have a 1989 mustang coupe with maximum motorsports tubular front end package. I just bought the car as a roller to do the ls1 swap on. If at all posible I would like to use this K member.
I have a 1989 mustang coupe with maximum motorsports tubular front end package. I just bought the car as a roller to do the ls1 swap on. If at all posible I would like to use this K member.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: New Port Richey, FL
Forgot about this thread.. The car has since been sold and I focused on finishing my 03 Cobra with a stock motor but 2.3 Whipple, 150 shot and a lot of other mods. I got that done and am now selling it to get back to this dream. I have an 89 hatch that I will now be doing a LSX motor with either a built TH400 or 4L60E and a set of twins to match. I will update this thread later with pics of the new car tonight
thats why I bought a 93 LS1 car to DD all around. Previous owner did the swap about 6-7 years ago. a/c, p/s, all gauges work. big sleeper. Looks bone stock inside and out.