Wow, that is sad. Amazing how many cool cars are now extinct!

 

Hey man, just curious what does your signature mean, I mean whats an igoo ?
Nice job on the Imp by the way you guys from Canada seem to build the most outlandish stuff around. Keep it up.

 

You must mean Doctahouse's signature.

Igloo, you know house built from ice blocks... (as in NOT the cooler company)
and something I hope to never need.

 

Yeah thats who I ment, I figured thats what he was trying to say but he left out the "l" so I thought I'd ask cause maybe an "igoo" really is something up in Canada. I like your T Bird by the way.

 

I'll be capping off the inner pocket and I won't have access to lower control arm threads. I drilled a 1/2 hole and plug welded the block so it doesn't move.

 

I've been grinding for the last three days. I'll be doing a weight off of the dust once I finish the rear.

First grind to get the shape.

 

 

 

Thanks, I'm just building it how I want. Going to a car show and seeing Camaro after Camaro or the same 63 Impala's is boring to me. Gotta think out of the box.

As for my sig, some people down south have the tendancy to think anything north of the border is wildlife and RCMP riding horses or if I know Bob. In some cases that's true to a point. Yes, the population of Canada is similar to that of California and we tend to lag in newest trend. We do have some bad *** customs and stocks. With our dollar being higher than the US right now, more people can afford to build cars and bring up the parts needed.

I never even noticed I forgot the "L". I posted when I signed up and haven't looked it since.

 

Thanks a lot, it's a blast because it's a sleeper.


Agreed.

...and I could tell you how much grinding sucks, but i think you probably know by now.

So is this frame getting painted or powder coated? It looks very good.

 

Painted, Endura or Duponts Imron. See what colors Endura has first.

 

Recieved the hinges a few days ago. They look good and really smooth operation too.

 

Started check how far the frame is out. It's not as good as hoped by not as bad as it could be. I ran a string line down the center to see where I'm at.
I'll be sending it to a frame shop to square it all up. I thought hard about making a frame jig. By the time I buy the material, build it and square it up, I could have just dropped it off and had it done for far less hassle. The front part of X is out 5/16" from center and rear is out 3/8", same direction.

 

I love those hinges! I've got a friend who bought a set of those for his 63 Impala. After seeing them in person I was convinced to get a set for my car.


I'm glad you are getting the frame checked and straightened on a frame machine. I can't tell you how many I've seen and worked on that weren't square after 40+ years of abuse.

 

Ok, here is the low down. The frame shop (Edmonton Frame and Suspension) was a complete waste of time. I talked to the boss on the phone. He said to bring the bare frame down. So I loaded it on the trailer and took it down.

He looked puzzled and didn't know where to start. He wanted me to return with the suspension and rear axle installed. Back home I go.

I returned an hour later and still same look. No idea on where to start. He said " You ventured into the forest and left only bread crumbs. The birds have eaten your bread crumbs and now you have to find your way back. I should have marked the trees with flouresent ribbon.

Then it was the control arms not being DOT approved, getting bad gas mileage because I added and extra 350lbs to the frame.... blah blah blah.


I went to General Scrap and bought 3x3x.188 square tubing and some 2.5x2.5x1.88 to build my own frame jig. I didn't want to do this but I was left no other choice.


On the trailer before the frame shop....the second time

 

Here is the jig building process:





Leveling legs. I added 8 total. Fine thread grade 8.

 

The center of the frame was center with the frame jig. This is where I will be working from.


Plumb bob's to measure everything correctly.


Rear portion of frame. Roughly 3/4" out



Front portion of frame (pre marked center of cross member). 2mm out from center!!!

 

Rear frame perfect for being level.



Front frame horns not so lucky though...



Perfect again!

 

I welded the center down solid so it will not move once I start heating the center in order to pull the rear frame portion. I used I bridge rod so it is easy to cut out once I;m done.





Same with the front portion. Welded so the frame will not move.





Rear bridge so the frame does not sag when heated.

 

Rear bridge so the frame does not sag when heated.




I build a brace so I can use the portapower to push the frame striaght.