doctahouse

New motor mounts!

doctahouse

I bought the corvette fuel filter. It has a built in regulator so that you only need to run one 3/8 line to the front instead of two.
The fittings needed to convert to a 6 AN style is as follows:

(2) 640850...one for the filter, one for the fuel rail. 6AN male to 3/8 female push on.
(1) 640860...6AN male to 5/16 female push on.
(1) 640940... 6AN to 3/8 push on, fits on the female side of filter.



Note these are the blue anodized. You can get them red, black etc too.
Seats. Leather 02? GM. Power, lumbar etc. I'll be recovering them in a custom leather once I get to that point. I want the seat belt built into the seat. OG belts just aren't safe enough if you have kids or the wife rolling with you. The rear seat needs to narrowed down. I'll try and keep the fold up mechanism working. I can put the valves under it and still work on it if need be. Only problem with the rear seat is the shoulder belts. Either I find system I can bolt in or find a say a BMW seat with the shoulder belts all built in? I don't know what to do.....



OG windshield #2

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

Nice motor mounts, they shouldn't go anywhere!

doctahouse

Few extra's I've picked up.

MSD wires and a/c bulk head fittings. It was a shot in the dark if the a/c compressor fitting will work or not?

doctahouse

Started fixing the headers. The other pieces are at the powder coater. Lots of pins holes. What a pain in the ***.

doctahouse

Enough is enough...on to the frame. Even though the car is getting air ride, the frame still needs to be stiffened up. I plan on running a one piece drive shaft and will be notching out the center tunnel for that. Strong sides and bottom are what's needed.

doctahouse

I should have taken a picture of this step. Instead of cutting the whole bracket off, I left the top welded and trimmed the sides so the plate would slide in from behind. Next was reweld it back in place and fill the holes.


factory mount removed and replaced



Lots of filling here. It's hard to get the plates tight. Not much room for the power clamp to work.

doctahouse

I don't like the look of the upper coil spring area so I chopped it out.

doctahouse

doctahouse

I'll be the first to admit, I screwed up. I took waaay too much off the crossmember. I needed to in order for the vette pan to fit only to switch to an F body. It's only metal.

doctahouse

The transmount need to be moved back about 3/16" after it was all said and done with the new engine mounts. The plating to the frame also required the trans mount be narrowed. I'll tap out the frame for the bolts.

doctahouse

I'll post this now. The 'A' arm mount did not pull from welding. This is how the factory perch was postioned. I'll take better pictures on the otherside when I get there for those wondering how it's done. Also, I welded the full chunk on there on and will trim it
once I spin the frame on its side. The reason I waited is that I didn't want the plate to warp from the heat of cutting.

badchev

OH MY GOD! You deserve the builder of the year award! Man your in deep and doing a fine job! Keep it up! Going to be so worth it when your done!

doctahouse

Thank you, I've got big shoes to fill. There are lots of bad *** builders out there. I just trying to do the best I can. Hopefully people get some useful information out of this topic.

doctahouse

Spacer required for the 500 conversion.


Instead of running a bolt through the frame, I tapped out the block.

doctahouse

Factory gussets are cutt off so the plating can go all the way around.



Filler piece.

doctahouse

This is how I aligned the control arm.

doctahouse

Much better after!!!

Home made plate bender.

doctahouse

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

Hey Doc, are you hopping the car with hydraulics or driving through bad neighborhoods in Iraq? The frame is a slight bit on the overkill side otherwise! At least you won't have to worry about flex.

Impatiently awaiting further progress.