Engine placement from scratch?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
Engine placement from scratch? I have an Lq9 resting in the frame rails of a 1970 Chevelle. In order for the accessories to clear, I have moved it to a point where no holes line up for the motor mounts/Frame. I am waiting for the tranny to come in and mount to engine before I drill any new holes in the frame... Anyhoo, does anybody have any tips or tricks to help me locate this engine as straight and true as possible the 1st time? Thanks in advance!!!
The short answer is to check out a few build threads. Bsharpe,KST*Engineer,Stealth71. I notched my frame and welded my stands on with a spacer underneath. Here is a pic of the frame on my 70 Chevelle.
TECH Resident
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 816
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From: Texas
Dave, not knowing what mounts you are refering too I cannot answer your question directlly. In my case https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ject-pics.html I made my own frame mounts to match the oem mounts on my f-body LS1. Another words I did not drill new holes in the frame I simply built frame mounts that aligned with the oem engine mounts and used the existing holes in the frame. Good luck with your project.
Rocky
Rocky
I use early style BRP mounts, which does require you to move your frame stands. Once you get your trans mounted to the engine and get it close to 2-5 * tilt.. You should be able to move it around some to get your final location. What I did was measure from frame rail to the center of the engine.. but I then offset it about 1/4-3/8" to get clearance on the steering box and my F-Body power steering pump. Don't for get to offset the trans the same amount.
It is ok to offset the engine some... as the BBC were offset also.. you will find many car's did offset there engine some. The Drive shaft and U-joint will allow it to work ok.
Also check your steering center link and rod end against the oil pan.
Also, you should try and check your engine tilt at right height or at lease get the frame to be setting at the same angle as right height. if you check your tilt with the car on the ground and can not crawl under the car to check the tilt at the trans output.. you can also check it at your crank end at (balancer). it is all in the same line...
It is ok to offset the engine some... as the BBC were offset also.. you will find many car's did offset there engine some. The Drive shaft and U-joint will allow it to work ok.
Also check your steering center link and rod end against the oil pan.
Also, you should try and check your engine tilt at right height or at lease get the frame to be setting at the same angle as right height. if you check your tilt with the car on the ground and can not crawl under the car to check the tilt at the trans output.. you can also check it at your crank end at (balancer). it is all in the same line...
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
Thanks!!! Bczee, i guess I've been a bit apprehensive to use the frame as a reference point, as these cars were built with rather large tolerances and didn't think I should use something "imperfect" to obtain "perfection". Seeing how a U-joint can handle a little side to side action, i guess I shouldn't be so worried about it being 100% on the mark left to right, right to left....Slightly diagonal.....Right?
You aren't measuring the degrees in relation to the frame, you are measuring it in relation to the pinion. Ideally the engine should be as close to centered as possible in the frame but you want the rear of the transmission and the pinion to be within spec at ride height. If this is done properly your U-Joints will last longer and your drive line will be vibration free.
Here is a good article on setting the pinion angle which is working backwards from where you need to be however the concept is the same. http://www.carcraft.com/howto/91758/index.html
I always do what Rockytopper did and make my own mounts then weld them to the frame. I find this method to be much quicker, cheaper and more reliable than trying to modify a factory piece. If I want the engine rubber or poly bushed, I use a common factory replacement on the engine side but the frame side is always a home brew.
In my experience unmolested OEM frames are rarely symmetrical. Keep this in mind when making your mounts. Suspension mount holes and some body mount holes are the most reliable measuring points. Once located I take my centers from them since their location is critical to the cars proper operation.
Hope this helps and doesn't raise more questions than it answers.
Here is a good article on setting the pinion angle which is working backwards from where you need to be however the concept is the same. http://www.carcraft.com/howto/91758/index.html
I always do what Rockytopper did and make my own mounts then weld them to the frame. I find this method to be much quicker, cheaper and more reliable than trying to modify a factory piece. If I want the engine rubber or poly bushed, I use a common factory replacement on the engine side but the frame side is always a home brew.
In my experience unmolested OEM frames are rarely symmetrical. Keep this in mind when making your mounts. Suspension mount holes and some body mount holes are the most reliable measuring points. Once located I take my centers from them since their location is critical to the cars proper operation.
Hope this helps and doesn't raise more questions than it answers.
I purposely offset my engine 3/4 inch to the passenger's side to gain clearance about the steering shaft and to help offset the weight of a driver. the stock engine was set in the same position.
You want the center line of the trans yoke/crank shaft parallel to the centerline of the diff pinion. U joint angles can't tell and up down offset from a side to side offset. A simple gravity angle finder can't check the side to side.
Best way to do this that I have found is with a couple of $8 laser pointers.
Here is a link on how to do that. Unfortunately it is hosted on a web site run by a bunch of constipated control freaks so you have to wait through a 60 second timer about then changing BBS software.
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109413
You want the center line of the trans yoke/crank shaft parallel to the centerline of the diff pinion. U joint angles can't tell and up down offset from a side to side offset. A simple gravity angle finder can't check the side to side.
Best way to do this that I have found is with a couple of $8 laser pointers.
Here is a link on how to do that. Unfortunately it is hosted on a web site run by a bunch of constipated control freaks so you have to wait through a 60 second timer about then changing BBS software.
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109413
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Here is a link on how to do that. Unfortunately it is hosted on a web site run by a bunch of constipated control freaks so you have to wait through a 60 second timer about then changing BBS software.
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109413
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109413
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900 K PDF of the above link. No BS timers to wade through, no forums to join, no adverts, etc. Save, share, I don't care.
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Teching In
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Spring, Tx
Here's my mounts. I agree with gofastwclass & Rockytopper, homemade is best if you have the resources. I bolted a 1/4" plate to the block & tacked a modified "clam shell" bracket to it. For centerlink clearance I need a spacer so I drilled and taped a 1/2" plate and bolted the mount to it. When I get the motor where I want it I'll weld the 1/2" plates to the frame.
