1970 Camaro RS: Operation Budget LSx
11-27-2010, 03:21 PM
#102
Sorry guys, life has been a handful lately. Got a few little bits and pieces done today. Upper and lower radiator hose is installed. Steam vent piping is hooked up and good to go. Fit checked a bunch of other stuff. Determined I have a gas pedal cable that is frayed and snagging, so that has to be replaced now. Also dropped the gas tank with the thought of installing a fuel cell in the trunk to prep for a dedicated fuel system for the nitrous down the road.
First things first, the lower hose. A source told me that the Gates 21505 would fit and I failed to do my homework beyond that to make sure it did before I ordered one. When it showed up the ID of the tube for radiator side and waterpump side was 1-3/4". Need 1-1/2" on both ends. The bends were about dead on, so I headed to the parts store to find one that worked. Ended up with a Dayco 71397. Lopped a inch or so off each end and viola!
The upper hose is a stock unit for a chevy truck. I ended up with a Gates 22436 hose. Fit the waterpump perfect (duh) but was a wee bit small for the radiator. After some gentle coaxing, some real loving XXX rated coaxing, I got it to fit. I believe the radiator side of the hose is 1-5/16" and my 3 core HD radiator for a 70 Camaro with big block is 1-1/2".
Next is the fun part. Figuring out how to bleed air and vent steam into/out of the cooling system. There is a high point in the cooling system now near the bend of the hose right here:
It will trap air and hurt cooling flow through the engine. Turns out I need a high point in the cooling system to run a line from the steam tubes in the cylinder heads to. And I used this to make that happen.
It's from Jags That Run. It has an inlet/outlet size of 1-5/16", a bleed valve and a barb fitting for the 1/4" ID hose from the steam vent. I cut the hose where I wanted the splice to be made and installed one half.
Then the other half and routed the steam vent line.
Doesn't look half as frankensteined as I thought it would. Plus it will be functional.
I did a few other things like run the PVC hose and test fit the heater hoses. I have a small concern about the rubbing of the hoses on the upper A-arms.
I think I can get away for a while by wrapping the hoses at this point. Any thoughts?
First things first, the lower hose. A source told me that the Gates 21505 would fit and I failed to do my homework beyond that to make sure it did before I ordered one. When it showed up the ID of the tube for radiator side and waterpump side was 1-3/4". Need 1-1/2" on both ends. The bends were about dead on, so I headed to the parts store to find one that worked. Ended up with a Dayco 71397. Lopped a inch or so off each end and viola!
The upper hose is a stock unit for a chevy truck. I ended up with a Gates 22436 hose. Fit the waterpump perfect (duh) but was a wee bit small for the radiator. After some gentle coaxing, some real loving XXX rated coaxing, I got it to fit. I believe the radiator side of the hose is 1-5/16" and my 3 core HD radiator for a 70 Camaro with big block is 1-1/2".
Next is the fun part. Figuring out how to bleed air and vent steam into/out of the cooling system. There is a high point in the cooling system now near the bend of the hose right here:
It will trap air and hurt cooling flow through the engine. Turns out I need a high point in the cooling system to run a line from the steam tubes in the cylinder heads to. And I used this to make that happen.
It's from Jags That Run. It has an inlet/outlet size of 1-5/16", a bleed valve and a barb fitting for the 1/4" ID hose from the steam vent. I cut the hose where I wanted the splice to be made and installed one half.
Then the other half and routed the steam vent line.
Doesn't look half as frankensteined as I thought it would. Plus it will be functional.
I did a few other things like run the PVC hose and test fit the heater hoses. I have a small concern about the rubbing of the hoses on the upper A-arms.
I think I can get away for a while by wrapping the hoses at this point. Any thoughts?
11-27-2010, 07:31 PM
#103
thanks for the hard work and details in this thread. I'm about to embark on dropping a 6.0/th350 combo in a 70 model. Why did you end uo going with a urethane mount rather than a solid? I like the way the mount plates looked but was it a factory-type pad you used for the other peice? Good stuff to see, Bill
11-27-2010, 07:34 PM
#104
11-27-2010, 07:38 PM
#105
Cool. So far from other sites it's been suggested that I use molded 90 degree tubing and splice it all together. One guy did that and it turned out nice....but I'd rather not splice anything. Another suggestion was to attach a small piece of sheet metal of some kind to the hoses. I like that idea. Would love to see how you did it.
12-04-2010, 04:02 AM
#110
Its the GM Muscle Car swap pan kit. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-19212593/
I do NOT recommend it. It might be OK in a stock suspension Chevelle, but not a slightly lowered Camaro. I will make do for a while and hope I don't hit anything.
I do NOT recommend it. It might be OK in a stock suspension Chevelle, but not a slightly lowered Camaro. I will make do for a while and hope I don't hit anything.
12-04-2010, 04:06 AM
#111
Sorry, between the 9 month old daughter, endless hours at work and me poor health, this build is going a LOT slower than I had planned. Still doesn't have a fuel tank in it....still trying to decide if I'm just going to clean my gas tank up and reinstall, or wait until I have enough for a cheap 12 gal fuel cell. I'm installing the starter and completing the heater hoses this weekend. Might move into the final stage: wiring. Oh yeah, and I need to complete the alternator install.
12-17-2010, 07:39 PM
#113
Things I got done recently:
1. Got the starter installed and the passenger side header installed tonight.
2. Located, drilled a hole and installed the fuel pressure regulator on the fenderwell.
3. Consolidated wiring around the battery to clean things up.
4. Installed the adaptor and the autometer temp sensor.
5. Installed the new temp switch for the electic fan.
6. Installed engine ground wire.
Things left to do.
1. Make and install power wire for electric fan.
2. Install alternator (coming soon, will be next major update with pictures)
3. Heater hoses (will probably show pics on this too)
4. Wire ignition controller
5. Reinstall fuel pump and fuel tank after cleaning them.
6. New throttle cable wire
7. Serpentine belt
8. Coolant plug for passenger side head
9. Oil filter and oil
10. Coolant
11. Get a fire extinguisher
12. Make some noise.
1. Got the starter installed and the passenger side header installed tonight.
2. Located, drilled a hole and installed the fuel pressure regulator on the fenderwell.
3. Consolidated wiring around the battery to clean things up.
4. Installed the adaptor and the autometer temp sensor.
5. Installed the new temp switch for the electic fan.
6. Installed engine ground wire.
Things left to do.
1. Make and install power wire for electric fan.
2. Install alternator (coming soon, will be next major update with pictures)
3. Heater hoses (will probably show pics on this too)
4. Wire ignition controller
5. Reinstall fuel pump and fuel tank after cleaning them.
6. New throttle cable wire
7. Serpentine belt
8. Coolant plug for passenger side head
9. Oil filter and oil
10. Coolant
11. Get a fire extinguisher
12. Make some noise.
02-13-2011, 10:11 PM
#115
Here we go, starting working on it again after a long hiatus.
Decided that I didn't like the look of the x-stream filter lid and also after multiple reports of performance issues, I decided to use this AFCO aluminum lid.
Time to install the nitrous bottle.
First I drilled a hole for the nitrous line to run through and rough routed the braided hose. Note: this will need a rubber grommet that has not yet been aquired or installed.
Next, I had to decide where I wanted the bottle. I had to keep in mind where the bolts for the bracket would end up so that they wouldn't interfere with the gas tank. Another consideration I had was the small area to pull the bottle in and out of. This made me decide to install the bottle sideways. While this is NOT the prefered direction to install the bottle, I felt the ease of reaching the valve and removing and replacing the bottle was more important for me. I will rarely use the nitrous, and only with a full bottle.
Here is the template in place.
Test fitting the bottle on the template, BEFORE drilling.
I'm ok with this for clearance.
First I start drilling with a small pilot drill.
And finish with the final drill size.
Very important, don't forget to debur the holes.
Now I fasten the brackets using the holes I drilled. It's important to put the head size of the bolt on the underside of the trunk floor. This allows for adequate clearance between the bolt and the gas tank.
Now, how do I tighten these bolts when I am on the underside of the car? Do I have magically long arms? Nope, I have a wife tool. A girlfriend tool or a kid tool can work as well. Some people might even find that a beer drinking buddy tool can be helpful.
Bottle installed and hose hooked up.
Now I'm ready to clean the rust in the trunk and paint it. Also, my gas tank is ready to reinstalled after I cleaned and painted it.
Almost down to just needing the wiring done. Really not looking forward to it.
Decided that I didn't like the look of the x-stream filter lid and also after multiple reports of performance issues, I decided to use this AFCO aluminum lid.
Time to install the nitrous bottle.
First I drilled a hole for the nitrous line to run through and rough routed the braided hose. Note: this will need a rubber grommet that has not yet been aquired or installed.
Next, I had to decide where I wanted the bottle. I had to keep in mind where the bolts for the bracket would end up so that they wouldn't interfere with the gas tank. Another consideration I had was the small area to pull the bottle in and out of. This made me decide to install the bottle sideways. While this is NOT the prefered direction to install the bottle, I felt the ease of reaching the valve and removing and replacing the bottle was more important for me. I will rarely use the nitrous, and only with a full bottle.
Here is the template in place.
Test fitting the bottle on the template, BEFORE drilling.
I'm ok with this for clearance.
First I start drilling with a small pilot drill.
And finish with the final drill size.
Very important, don't forget to debur the holes.
Now I fasten the brackets using the holes I drilled. It's important to put the head size of the bolt on the underside of the trunk floor. This allows for adequate clearance between the bolt and the gas tank.
Now, how do I tighten these bolts when I am on the underside of the car? Do I have magically long arms? Nope, I have a wife tool. A girlfriend tool or a kid tool can work as well. Some people might even find that a beer drinking buddy tool can be helpful.
Bottle installed and hose hooked up.
Now I'm ready to clean the rust in the trunk and paint it. Also, my gas tank is ready to reinstalled after I cleaned and painted it.
Almost down to just needing the wiring done. Really not looking forward to it.
Last edited by 1970camaroRS; 02-14-2011 at 12:00 AM.
02-14-2011, 09:23 PM
#117
Here's the 6LS installed on the firewall. It ALMOST fit the exact same footprint of the Mallory HyFire IV box I had there before. Just had to really force one screw in to make a new hole for itself.
Now for the moment you've all been waiting for. Ok some of you have been waiting for. The installation of the alternator bracket and adaptor/spacer I fabbed earlier. Reference: https://ls1tech.com/forums/13523709-post72.html
It does sit a little high, but that's because I used the upper outside hole on the head instead of the lower one I mocked it up with. I like the belt angle and clearance this position gives me. However, not sure if it will clear the hood. Actually thinking it won't after giving a good look at it. I will give it a shot with my old hood I have sitting outside after it dries off. Also note: brackets will look nice and clean sometime in the near future.
Now for the moment you've all been waiting for. Ok some of you have been waiting for. The installation of the alternator bracket and adaptor/spacer I fabbed earlier. Reference: https://ls1tech.com/forums/13523709-post72.html
It does sit a little high, but that's because I used the upper outside hole on the head instead of the lower one I mocked it up with. I like the belt angle and clearance this position gives me. However, not sure if it will clear the hood. Actually thinking it won't after giving a good look at it. I will give it a shot with my old hood I have sitting outside after it dries off. Also note: brackets will look nice and clean sometime in the near future.
02-16-2011, 11:55 PM
#118
After staring at the location I installed it, I decided it was way too high. I did the worlds WORST counter bore for the upper outside most bolt since the nut would interfere with the cylinder head when I moved the outer head bolt to the lower location. It like this location a lot better.
And here's the world worst counter-bore. It works though, everything is VERY close to touching.
Someone on another board asked me why I didn't just get a bracket from car Y and space that out and use a late model alternator.
I had a known good, fairly expensive Powermaster one wire alternator already from my previous SBC/BBC installs. Also already had the BBC alt bracket and the adjustable rod. The aluminum was basically free to me, just had to do someone a favor for it. So I am out labor and the $10 or so for fasteners. Oh, plus the $5 pulley. I think I'm making out like a bandit and my electrical setup stays exactly the same as I had it before.
Side by side before and after.
BEFORE.
AFTER.
And here's the world worst counter-bore. It works though, everything is VERY close to touching.
Someone on another board asked me why I didn't just get a bracket from car Y and space that out and use a late model alternator.
I had a known good, fairly expensive Powermaster one wire alternator already from my previous SBC/BBC installs. Also already had the BBC alt bracket and the adjustable rod. The aluminum was basically free to me, just had to do someone a favor for it. So I am out labor and the $10 or so for fasteners. Oh, plus the $5 pulley. I think I'm making out like a bandit and my electrical setup stays exactly the same as I had it before.
Side by side before and after.
BEFORE.
AFTER.
02-19-2011, 02:55 AM
#119
Here's a minor update. Added a gromett and painted a little.
Here's the gromett covering the hole for the nitrous hose.
Before:
After:
I did a little painting with this stuff:
Thought one bottle would be enough, but it wasn't. I will need to touch up a little with another bottle later.
Before:
After:
It leaves a nice rubberized texture, just curious how well it will last.
And with the bottle installed.
Here's the gromett covering the hole for the nitrous hose.
Before:
After:
I did a little painting with this stuff:
Thought one bottle would be enough, but it wasn't. I will need to touch up a little with another bottle later.
Before:
After:
It leaves a nice rubberized texture, just curious how well it will last.
And with the bottle installed.
