LsX Mustang Guys with DYNATECH headers come in here!
11-11-2010, 05:34 AM
#121
Well I have to say you all were fortunate enough to have them replaced, on the other hand I was not... I went ahead and put out the money and purchased the flaming river steering shaft, hopefully it works. I guess you live and you learn!
11-11-2010, 06:04 AM
#123
I bought them from a guy off Oklahoma craigslist probably 6 months ago, I just got everything I needed To put the car together and had it all assembled, with that being said I no longer know how to find the person I purchased them from. Well if that doesn't fix it I don't know what to do...thanks to everyone who is trying to help me
12-20-2010, 12:34 PM
#127
On The Tree
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o fock
I just ordered the 115-913400. Going in 89.
It says 79-93. Are these the right ones?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DT...n/?prefilter=1
I just ordered the 115-913400. Going in 89.
It says 79-93. Are these the right ones?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DT...n/?prefilter=1
03-15-2011, 02:09 AM
#132
BUMP
Got my Dynatech headers installed, passenger side took 30 seconds to get in. Driver's side took 45 minutes, as I has to lift the motor because I couldn't get past the "dog ear" on my TH400.
So heads up for anyone doing this swap with a TH400, cut that left dog ear off(useless anyway) while the trans is out of the car so you can avoid the trouble.
Once it was in, the steering knuckle is rubbing the backside of the primary, took the shaft back out and ground on it until I'd removed quite a lot of material and it still rubbed slightly. Some people may have left it to clearance itself, but I thought it was haggard and am going to weld in a smaller U joint that I bought from a local speedshop.
Not impressed with the Dynatech's fit with the knuckle hitting. But after staring up at it for 20 minutes with a beer in my hand, I don't think they could have designed it any differently because if they'd moved the primary back the 1/4" it would take, the primary would be against the sub-frame. So eh, next time I'll know where to ding the brand new $600 header in to make it fit properly.
Got my Dynatech headers installed, passenger side took 30 seconds to get in. Driver's side took 45 minutes, as I has to lift the motor because I couldn't get past the "dog ear" on my TH400.
So heads up for anyone doing this swap with a TH400, cut that left dog ear off(useless anyway) while the trans is out of the car so you can avoid the trouble.
Once it was in, the steering knuckle is rubbing the backside of the primary, took the shaft back out and ground on it until I'd removed quite a lot of material and it still rubbed slightly. Some people may have left it to clearance itself, but I thought it was haggard and am going to weld in a smaller U joint that I bought from a local speedshop.
Not impressed with the Dynatech's fit with the knuckle hitting. But after staring up at it for 20 minutes with a beer in my hand, I don't think they could have designed it any differently because if they'd moved the primary back the 1/4" it would take, the primary would be against the sub-frame. So eh, next time I'll know where to ding the brand new $600 header in to make it fit properly.
03-15-2011, 03:01 AM
#133
BUMP
Got my Dynatech headers installed, passenger side took 30 seconds to get in. Driver's side took 45 minutes, as I has to lift the motor because I couldn't get past the "dog ear" on my TH400.
So heads up for anyone doing this swap with a TH400, cut that left dog ear off(useless anyway) while the trans is out of the car so you can avoid the trouble.
Once it was in, the steering knuckle is rubbing the backside of the primary, took the shaft back out and ground on it until I'd removed quite a lot of material and it still rubbed slightly. Some people may have left it to clearance itself, but I thought it was haggard and am going to weld in a smaller U joint that I bought from a local speedshop.
Not impressed with the Dynatech's fit with the knuckle hitting. But after staring up at it for 20 minutes with a beer in my hand, I don't think they could have designed it any differently because if they'd moved the primary back the 1/4" it would take, the primary would be against the sub-frame. So eh, next time I'll know where to ding the brand new $600 header in to make it fit properly.
Got my Dynatech headers installed, passenger side took 30 seconds to get in. Driver's side took 45 minutes, as I has to lift the motor because I couldn't get past the "dog ear" on my TH400.
So heads up for anyone doing this swap with a TH400, cut that left dog ear off(useless anyway) while the trans is out of the car so you can avoid the trouble.
Once it was in, the steering knuckle is rubbing the backside of the primary, took the shaft back out and ground on it until I'd removed quite a lot of material and it still rubbed slightly. Some people may have left it to clearance itself, but I thought it was haggard and am going to weld in a smaller U joint that I bought from a local speedshop.
Not impressed with the Dynatech's fit with the knuckle hitting. But after staring up at it for 20 minutes with a beer in my hand, I don't think they could have designed it any differently because if they'd moved the primary back the 1/4" it would take, the primary would be against the sub-frame. So eh, next time I'll know where to ding the brand new $600 header in to make it fit properly.
03-16-2011, 12:20 PM
#135
If it hadn't been for the interference with the trans bellhousing, it would have slipped right in like the passenger side did.
Ya, I've seen other people have no issue, seems like it just depends. It's not my car or k member, so maybe my headers were welded up on a Monday.
03-19-2011, 01:26 PM
#139
My steering shaft hitting the primary didn't have anything to do with the bellhousing. Only thing the bellhousing raised hell with me on was getting the header installed. If I'd cut the dog ear off the bellhousing, the header would have slipped right in. Still, the primary was being rubbed by the steering shaft after the header was bolted up. Obviously it shouldn't do that.
I ended up welding in a smaller U-joint and everything clears the primary now, but I must have got some warpage when I welded it together, because with car on the ground the rack flexes while you turn the wheel lock to lock. Seems the shaft isn't true and when it gets to the high point of its irregularity it pushes down on the rack and the rack flexes on it's bushings. SO, I'm going to order a flaming river, hopefully it clears the primary? I'll be really pissed off if I end up having to remove the header and ding it to clear the steering shaft.
I ended up welding in a smaller U-joint and everything clears the primary now, but I must have got some warpage when I welded it together, because with car on the ground the rack flexes while you turn the wheel lock to lock. Seems the shaft isn't true and when it gets to the high point of its irregularity it pushes down on the rack and the rack flexes on it's bushings. SO, I'm going to order a flaming river, hopefully it clears the primary? I'll be really pissed off if I end up having to remove the header and ding it to clear the steering shaft.
08-18-2011, 05:28 AM
#140
Teching In
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road race application... For those that have the corrected version d/s, can you say if the headers would clear the steering shaft with a 1" engine set back? I have a Griggs k mbr for a stock 5.0 with BRP LS engine mounts. Would the sn95 version in my fox to give me added room, or create other issues?
If these wouldnt work with the engine 1" back, any idea of others that would work? I would rather have 1 7/8"s, and am trying to avoid fabbing typical 351 Mustang headers to work- which would only be 1 3/4"s.
Thanks,
Ryan
If these wouldnt work with the engine 1" back, any idea of others that would work? I would rather have 1 7/8"s, and am trying to avoid fabbing typical 351 Mustang headers to work- which would only be 1 3/4"s.
Thanks,
Ryan