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1963 impala ls2/4l60e drive shaft cut, question

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Old 03-20-2010, 06:37 PM
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Default 1963 impala ls2/4l60e drive shaft cut, question

I just got my ls2 motor and 4l60 trans sitting in the frame but I havent did the install of the cross member yet, i see that the drive shaft as to be cut and wanted to know the cut most ppl did. I sent my drive shaft off the be cut 55inches from center to center. another question will it be better to get a new one made after the final mock up
Old 03-20-2010, 08:37 PM
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my shaft ended up being 59 1/2 inches (scrapped two piece, used a shaft from late model truck, had it cut, balanced, and replaced u-joint on rear to match rear dif. for 94.00 at local shop) on my 6.0, 4l60e. All is mounted in car.
Old 03-20-2010, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 6.0 61' parkwood
my shaft ended up being 59 1/2 inches (scrapped two piece, used a shaft from late model truck, had it cut, balanced, and replaced u-joint on rear to match rear dif. for 94.00 at local shop) on my 6.0, 4l60e. All is mounted in car.
You modify the frame any to get the one piece to work properly?
Old 03-21-2010, 01:20 AM
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I cut mine myself, cut the weld on the rear, cut amount out needed and rewelded. I only did this so I could park it and test etc.... in out of driveway. I'm getting a new one for a couple reasons, one, old stock driveshaft I don't trust with new powerplant and I'm using a 9" with a 1330 yoke. Plan to order from this company.

http://www.pstds.com/driveshafts_101.htm#Driveshaft
Old 03-21-2010, 08:28 AM
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No if i did a once piece drive shaft I'll have to cut a nice size from the bottom of the frame and i'm not sure how it would come out since I'm useing air bags. And i agree I do want to upgrade to a stronger drive shaft with this new power plant I'm running. but for now I could use the stock being cut to line my trans and motor up so i can install the cross member in the right spot
Old 03-21-2010, 09:25 AM
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Yes, I cut frame. cut the width about 3 inches wide right to the e-brake cable brackets (looking at the tunnel from rear). And all the way to the frame recess for carrier bairing, about 12 inches tapering cut to 2 inch toward front of car. I have stock springs on rear of car, so I jacked car on frame, ratchet strapped (two) rearend up so driveshaft would slide in. Went in a little hard but has good movement, I don't antisipate any probs. from this, but I may weld in a piece where i made the cut, even tho I think the frame isn't much weaker. All this was done last week.
Old 03-21-2010, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 6.0 61' parkwood
my shaft ended up being 59 1/2 inches (scrapped two piece, used a shaft from late model truck, had it cut, balanced, and replaced u-joint on rear to match rear dif. for 94.00 at local shop) on my 6.0, 4l60e. All is mounted in car.
wow. i WOULD THINK IT WOULD BE ALOT MORE.
Old 03-21-2010, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 6.0 61' parkwood
Yes, I cut frame. cut the width about 3 inches wide right to the e-brake cable brackets (looking at the tunnel from rear). And all the way to the frame recess for carrier bairing, about 12 inches tapering cut to 2 inch toward front of car. I have stock springs on rear of car, so I jacked car on frame, ratchet strapped (two) rearend up so driveshaft would slide in. Went in a little hard but has good movement, I don't antisipate any probs. from this, but I may weld in a piece where i made the cut, even tho I think the frame isn't much weaker. All this was done last week.
Do you have any pictures of this? Pm with them if you dont care...haven't done the swap yet because with the 350 and 700r4 ive broke 3 carrier bearings and broke the ears of the driveshaft that hold the ujoint the last time...
Old 03-21-2010, 07:28 PM
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Hell i'm kinda at a toss up on the drive shaft. I know a one piece is easy and simple but hear how you broke a center bearing has me thinking. Which ever way i go i have to think about the fact i'm running air bags and the car will life up and down



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