Anyone use Moroso GEN 1 solids with their adapter mounts?
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I had Moroso solid motor mounts (motor and frame) for my old 400 SBC. I figured I could reuse them and just order the Trans-Dapt adapter plates only. I went and put them on the motor today and dropped it in. The issue was I could mount one side, but the other side I could not get lined up, at least 1/2" or more off. Stepping back and thinking about it, the 1/4" adapter plate on each side of the motor throws the geometry off a tad.
I wonder if the Trans-Dapt mounts are a bit shorter in length than my Moroso solids, thus allowing it to work.
I thought about opening up the holes on the frame to allow the frame mount to slide up a little which would work, but that does not seem like the right way, should probably just get the trans-dapt mounts as well.
Anyone else run into any issues with their mounts like this?
6.0 LY6 going in a G-body (87 Monte Carlo SS)
I wonder if the Trans-Dapt mounts are a bit shorter in length than my Moroso solids, thus allowing it to work.
I thought about opening up the holes on the frame to allow the frame mount to slide up a little which would work, but that does not seem like the right way, should probably just get the trans-dapt mounts as well.
Anyone else run into any issues with their mounts like this?
6.0 LY6 going in a G-body (87 Monte Carlo SS)
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Between the frame and the frame mounts? I would think that would make it worse.
Looking at the motor, assuming the holes for the motor mount and frame mount lined up on the SBC. Then those motor mounts slide down and at an angle 1/4" due to the LS adapter plate, that is what is messing me up. Did you raise your frame mounts up away from the oil pan to help align the motor?
Looking at the motor, assuming the holes for the motor mount and frame mount lined up on the SBC. Then those motor mounts slide down and at an angle 1/4" due to the LS adapter plate, that is what is messing me up. Did you raise your frame mounts up away from the oil pan to help align the motor?
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Oops sorry, thought you meant the other direction.
My guess is that the frames trist, bow, etc. One of my old mounts had broken and been banging against the horn. Thinking that might have spread it.
Not sure what's up with yours.
Check Energy Suspensions poly mounts, they come in 2 sizes for GM cars.
My guess is that the frames trist, bow, etc. One of my old mounts had broken and been banging against the horn. Thinking that might have spread it.
Not sure what's up with yours.
Check Energy Suspensions poly mounts, they come in 2 sizes for GM cars.
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Thanks guys.
I will see if I can muscle it in today.
If that doesn't work, I may end up loosening the frame mounts, getting the holes on each side to line up and get a bolt in them, then tighten up the frame mounts.
I will see if I can muscle it in today.
If that doesn't work, I may end up loosening the frame mounts, getting the holes on each side to line up and get a bolt in them, then tighten up the frame mounts.
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No luck, still off due to the extra 1/4" plate on each side of the motor. I am going with a different mount on the adapter that is a tad shorter, should work fine.
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Motor looks great. I received the new mounts yesterday, they are shorter which will probably drop the motor a little height wise. Will try test fitting it this weekend. Also have a new oil pan to help out with the clearance.
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I set my 408 in my '69 Nova today for a trial fit. For the record, I was using the Carshop 1"setback plates with my old school Moroso solid engine mounts. I had less than stellar results. The passenger side head and valve cover hit my heater core tubes, preventing the passenger side mount from lining up, and my Moroso oil pan touches the cross member on the driver's side when the mounting bolt was installed.
![](http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w258/cacinal/408%20Engine%20build/Turbo%20build/DSC_0152.jpg)
Passenger side mount mis-alignment (drivers side was bolted in):
![](http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w258/cacinal/408%20Engine%20build/Turbo%20build/DSC_0178.jpg)
Moroso oil pan resting on cross member with driver's side mount bolted down:
![](http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w258/cacinal/408%20Engine%20build/Turbo%20build/DSC_0181.jpg)
I think the mount alignment and oil pan touching can both be corrected by adding a spacer between the engine mounts and Carshop mounting plate. That will raise the engine as well as spread the mounts away from the oil pan. For my installation I think the zero setback will work best and not require me to get a BBC heater box.
On a slightly different topic, I am not real thrilled about the looks of flipped and forward truck manifolds.
![](http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w258/cacinal/408%20Engine%20build/Turbo%20build/DSC_0174.jpg)
I am pretty sure I can make the driver's side manifold work facing down, by cutting some length and angle off the collector end. Here is a shot with the firewall end of the manifold bolted in but the front of the manifold is still 1" too high:
![](http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w258/cacinal/408%20Engine%20build/Turbo%20build/DSC_0162.jpg)
The passenger side truck manifold just plain won't work turned down and forward, and I am just not liking the flipped up look.
![](http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w258/cacinal/408%20Engine%20build/Turbo%20build/DSC_0163.jpg)
So, now I need to modify my Carshop plates to scoot the mounts forward 1", add a spacer between the plates and engine mounts, and do some research on other stock manifold choices - or possibly replace the cross member with a tubular setup... So my progress today was actually taking two steps backwards.
![](http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w258/cacinal/408%20Engine%20build/Turbo%20build/DSC_0152.jpg)
Passenger side mount mis-alignment (drivers side was bolted in):
![](http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w258/cacinal/408%20Engine%20build/Turbo%20build/DSC_0178.jpg)
Moroso oil pan resting on cross member with driver's side mount bolted down:
![](http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w258/cacinal/408%20Engine%20build/Turbo%20build/DSC_0181.jpg)
I think the mount alignment and oil pan touching can both be corrected by adding a spacer between the engine mounts and Carshop mounting plate. That will raise the engine as well as spread the mounts away from the oil pan. For my installation I think the zero setback will work best and not require me to get a BBC heater box.
On a slightly different topic, I am not real thrilled about the looks of flipped and forward truck manifolds.
![](http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w258/cacinal/408%20Engine%20build/Turbo%20build/DSC_0174.jpg)
I am pretty sure I can make the driver's side manifold work facing down, by cutting some length and angle off the collector end. Here is a shot with the firewall end of the manifold bolted in but the front of the manifold is still 1" too high:
![](http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w258/cacinal/408%20Engine%20build/Turbo%20build/DSC_0162.jpg)
The passenger side truck manifold just plain won't work turned down and forward, and I am just not liking the flipped up look.
![](http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w258/cacinal/408%20Engine%20build/Turbo%20build/DSC_0163.jpg)
So, now I need to modify my Carshop plates to scoot the mounts forward 1", add a spacer between the plates and engine mounts, and do some research on other stock manifold choices - or possibly replace the cross member with a tubular setup... So my progress today was actually taking two steps backwards.
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My Nova had factory AC so I bought a AC Delete box because I wanted to keep my heat.....my pass side head is very close to the box but everything works. I had the same problem with my LH8 pan hitting my crossmember too. I did end up using spacers to raise the motor a bit and everything works great with the Carshop 1" setback plates/Moroso mounts.
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Nice pics, and I also feel your pain.
The new mounts are too shallow, meaning the holes that align with the frame mount are not long enough to go over the frame mount and get the bolt in. There goes $30 wasted.
I ended up opening up the holes on the motor mounts to make them a little more of an oval look than a circle. This, along with the new oil pan allowed me to drop in in. Of course the headers fitting on each side was another story. I really needed to move the frame mounts back 1 hole (which is about 1"). This made a big difference on the headers working out, but notice there is 1 spot on the oil pan where it is just touching the crossmember/steering, more towards the passenger side. Engine is just out of level side to side as well. I think if I shim up the passenger frame mount like you had to I should be good to go.
I also thought about buying the stock clamshell fame mounts, maybe that would make a difference. Before spending even more $$$, I will try shimming the pass. frame mount and hopefully be in good shape.
I will post pics tonight. Hopefully it will help someone in the future not waste $$$ like I did on the wrong mounts.
The new mounts are too shallow, meaning the holes that align with the frame mount are not long enough to go over the frame mount and get the bolt in. There goes $30 wasted.
I ended up opening up the holes on the motor mounts to make them a little more of an oval look than a circle. This, along with the new oil pan allowed me to drop in in. Of course the headers fitting on each side was another story. I really needed to move the frame mounts back 1 hole (which is about 1"). This made a big difference on the headers working out, but notice there is 1 spot on the oil pan where it is just touching the crossmember/steering, more towards the passenger side. Engine is just out of level side to side as well. I think if I shim up the passenger frame mount like you had to I should be good to go.
I also thought about buying the stock clamshell fame mounts, maybe that would make a difference. Before spending even more $$$, I will try shimming the pass. frame mount and hopefully be in good shape.
I will post pics tonight. Hopefully it will help someone in the future not waste $$$ like I did on the wrong mounts.
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Moroso makes a taller solid engine mount about a inch taller 4 sbc gen 1 .. yours look like short ones ? .. i bought edds motor mount with moroso solid engine mounts an my ls7 still would not fit in the car ..stock dry samp ls7 pan waz hiting the crossmember..now i think its better for my car 2 get the crossmember cut an put a couply of bars in it ..
also i,m surprised you did not motor plate your car ? with you going with a turbo on it ..
also i,m surprised you did not motor plate your car ? with you going with a turbo on it ..
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Well I got the motor in, leveled along with the headers. Next task is to modify the crossmember to get the trans lined up. I am not 100% satisfied with how I had to modify the solid mounts, but it will work.
Does anyone know if local auto places (Autozone, Advanced, etc) sell stock mounts? I see they have the clamshells that mount to the frame, but not sure on the piece that mounts to the motor. I have seen plenty of guys using them with success on the LS swap, so I figured I may try them to see if they work out better.
There is a swap meet coming this weekend, may try there also.
Does anyone know if local auto places (Autozone, Advanced, etc) sell stock mounts? I see they have the clamshells that mount to the frame, but not sure on the piece that mounts to the motor. I have seen plenty of guys using them with success on the LS swap, so I figured I may try them to see if they work out better.
There is a swap meet coming this weekend, may try there also.
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All I can find at the parts store is the frame mounts, and they are wider than the mounts you show... I thought about cutting them down and going that route if it would work, Im tired of dealing with it...