I was doing a LQ9/L92 but decided to sell it all and get crazy!

old build

LQ9 shortblock- flycut stock pistons .060
L92 heads- ls3 hollow stem intake valves, rev 1.60 ss exhaust valves , heads milled .030,cometic gaskets .040
{should be 11:3 comp}
LS3 intake- ported, 92mm tb
XFI232/XFI238 112+2 .612/.607
1 7/8 dynatech lt's,3' x-pipe,3' mufflers
ewp
ud pulley
t56-ls7 clutch





The car when it showed up



el motor,heads and t56

 

tore the front end apart

the stock 86 brakes {they are staying}

tore the dash out


ahhh wheels


made some cover panels. learning to weld is fun

 

PICKED UP SOME GREY INTERIOR PIECES


Radiator showed up


update pics! Motor and trans removed. welding in more panels

 

im no pro welder!! **** is harder then it looks





i keep hearing that guy in the movie death race saying " that guy cant grind for shxt!"

 

I lucked out and bought a patrick g custom grind cam from someone who has lq9/l92 setup that went to a bigger cam.


Here are the facts and specs:

XFI232/XFI238
112+2
.612/.607

The motor setup it came out of:

Lq9 6.0L
ported L92's milled .15
.40mm gasket
fast 102/102
1 7/8 lt's
ewp
ud pulley
4500 stalled 4L60e
4.56 gears

dynoed 492whp/450wtq

ran 11.39@118 in a 3800lb truck on 28's na.

 

My dbrods modded oil pan. The truck pan is 8 1/4 deep so I had then modded a pan for me taking 1 1/2 off it. Still giving me 6qt's and more ground clearance.


got the motor ready for some flycutting


Everything is easier with the right tools and thanks to SPINMONSTER who rented his flycutting setup for my app which made it a breeze. I have been working on cars for 17 years but I have never flycut a piston before so I was just a nervous and cautious as the next guy. I took it very slow and read SPINMONSTERS flycutting thread quite a few time prior to starting.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...mpression.html



I back him 100%. If you have never done it before DONT USE POWER TOOLS!!! The tool shaves the piston like butter. It takes no time by hand to do it. Honestly it was very easy.
I kept pulling the head to check progress and remove the metal shavings.

Here is the motor ready for cutting. I cleaned everything up before taping it up. Clean the surface real good or the tape wont stick.

* sidenote: When you spin the motor over with all the tape on it you will see the tape draw down and blow out. Right when it starts to draw down stop!! Press the tape down and slow rotate back. Just keep pressing the tape down. You will see the piston reach its highest point.


Once the tool rested on the top of the piston I used my .60 shim and locked the collar down. I checked every hole just to make sure I cut .60 in every piston. {never know if one piston sits higher out of the hole then the next.}


I didnt bolt the tool/head down. The weight of the head seemed to be enough. I basicly let the tool do the job with mild pressure. I would watch the top of the head to see if I was applying to much pressure because it would raise up.

So here is after 10 turns

30 turns

50-55 turns

I didnt have a .060 shim so I used a .016/.014/.030 and taped it tight!

finished!! { dont laugh the motor has 90k and came from a escalade. LQ9 or basicly iron ls2}


I wish I had alot more pictures but it really was very simple and easy with very few steps. I hope this helps take some of the fear out of flycutting. It took me about 40mins to do 4 pistons just taking my time and checking my progress.


Big thanks to SPINMONSTER!! He did all the leg work to make so i can run the cam I want and made a scarey task very easy and simple.

I used the little cans of compressed air for cleaning keyboards to remove the shaving.

 

wonder what it will run!

 

added arp rod bolts. Checked all the bearings and everything looks great!!

dbrods gave me a good tip to remove the sleeve in the rod cap. Take the stock bolt out and feed it in a few threads from the rod side. put your fingers between the bolt head and cap so when you tap the bolt head on the table the bolt hit your finger instead of the cracked rod surface. worked like a charm

 

shortbock all buttoned up! with arp rod bolts,hd chain,cam,new ls7 lifter,dbrods modded pickup tube and pan,slp underdrive pulley and meziere ewp

 

Cleaning up the engine bay is way more work then I thought! Egokilr and myself spent a good major of the day making pieces,welding and grinding.

*running the grinder without ear plugs sux!!







removed the gas tank and exhaust {gonna run a fuel cell}

 

Well I decided today no fiberglass hood for me. I don't like cowl hoods personally and no one makes a 83-86 fiberglass stock looking hood. So I did what most won't do but **** it!! It's my car and I want the stock hood look. I gutted the stock hood. Not completely but the center section is gone with the latch mount. I left the safety latch.
Weighted excatly 40lbs


after first round 28lbs


Im not done!! Im gonna do a aluminum frame more then likely and make it a lift off

 

The heads are at the machine shop getting milled,cleaned and having the stock exhaust {1.59} cut to the 1.60. Should be back in about a week. Waiting on parts.

 

$5800.00 so far , not too bad .. should be around 12-13 grand when complete .. just my lsx swap was $11,000.00 .... it NEVER cost what you want ...

 

That's about what I figured. A buddy of mine was one of the first t56 ls1 swaps years ago before people made headers etc etc and he spent around 15k for just the swap.

 

i have never done body work! so bare with me. It seemed like I sanded for ever and I didnt get much done.

 

looks good man

 

Looking good.

 

cant wait to see it done

 

Thanks for the responses!

Im hoping to startup in the next month or two

 

Your doing pretty much what I'm goin for, but into an 85 notch... Wouldn't the hood still work even with the center section cut out? Shouldn't need any braces if it's going to be a lift off...