another 6.0 coupe
06-18-2010, 07:28 AM
#1
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another 6.0 coupe I was doing a LQ9/L92 but decided to sell it all and get crazy!
old build
LQ9 shortblock- flycut stock pistons .060
L92 heads- ls3 hollow stem intake valves, rev 1.60 ss exhaust valves , heads milled .030,cometic gaskets .040
{should be 11:3 comp}
LS3 intake- ported, 92mm tb
XFI232/XFI238 112+2 .612/.607
1 7/8 dynatech lt's,3' x-pipe,3' mufflers
ewp
ud pulley
t56-ls7 clutch
The car when it showed up
el motor,heads and t56
old build
LQ9 shortblock- flycut stock pistons .060
L92 heads- ls3 hollow stem intake valves, rev 1.60 ss exhaust valves , heads milled .030,cometic gaskets .040
{should be 11:3 comp}
LS3 intake- ported, 92mm tb
XFI232/XFI238 112+2 .612/.607
1 7/8 dynatech lt's,3' x-pipe,3' mufflers
ewp
ud pulley
t56-ls7 clutch
The car when it showed up
el motor,heads and t56
Last edited by Clean94Z; 12-30-2010 at 03:36 PM.
06-18-2010, 07:36 AM
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I lucked out and bought a patrick g custom grind cam from someone who has lq9/l92 setup that went to a bigger cam.
Here are the facts and specs:
XFI232/XFI238
112+2
.612/.607
The motor setup it came out of:
Lq9 6.0L
ported L92's milled .15
.40mm gasket
fast 102/102
1 7/8 lt's
ewp
ud pulley
4500 stalled 4L60e
4.56 gears
dynoed 492whp/450wtq
ran 11.39@118 in a 3800lb truck on 28's na.
Here are the facts and specs:
XFI232/XFI238
112+2
.612/.607
The motor setup it came out of:
Lq9 6.0L
ported L92's milled .15
.40mm gasket
fast 102/102
1 7/8 lt's
ewp
ud pulley
4500 stalled 4L60e
4.56 gears
dynoed 492whp/450wtq
ran 11.39@118 in a 3800lb truck on 28's na.
Last edited by Clean94Z; 08-02-2010 at 06:46 AM.
06-18-2010, 07:40 AM
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My dbrods modded oil pan. The truck pan is 8 1/4 deep so I had then modded a pan for me taking 1 1/2 off it. Still giving me 6qt's and more ground clearance.
got the motor ready for some flycutting
Everything is easier with the right tools and thanks to SPINMONSTER who rented his flycutting setup for my app which made it a breeze. I have been working on cars for 17 years but I have never flycut a piston before so I was just a nervous and cautious as the next guy. I took it very slow and read SPINMONSTERS flycutting thread quite a few time prior to starting.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...mpression.html
I back him 100%. If you have never done it before DONT USE POWER TOOLS!!! The tool shaves the piston like butter. It takes no time by hand to do it. Honestly it was very easy.
I kept pulling the head to check progress and remove the metal shavings.
Here is the motor ready for cutting. I cleaned everything up before taping it up. Clean the surface real good or the tape wont stick.
* sidenote: When you spin the motor over with all the tape on it you will see the tape draw down and blow out. Right when it starts to draw down stop!! Press the tape down and slow rotate back. Just keep pressing the tape down. You will see the piston reach its highest point.
Once the tool rested on the top of the piston I used my .60 shim and locked the collar down. I checked every hole just to make sure I cut .60 in every piston. {never know if one piston sits higher out of the hole then the next.}
I didnt bolt the tool/head down. The weight of the head seemed to be enough. I basicly let the tool do the job with mild pressure. I would watch the top of the head to see if I was applying to much pressure because it would raise up.
So here is after 10 turns
30 turns
50-55 turns
I didnt have a .060 shim so I used a .016/.014/.030 and taped it tight!
finished!! { dont laugh the motor has 90k and came from a escalade. LQ9 or basicly iron ls2}
I wish I had alot more pictures but it really was very simple and easy with very few steps. I hope this helps take some of the fear out of flycutting. It took me about 40mins to do 4 pistons just taking my time and checking my progress.
Big thanks to SPINMONSTER!! He did all the leg work to make so i can run the cam I want and made a scarey task very easy and simple.
I used the little cans of compressed air for cleaning keyboards to remove the shaving.
got the motor ready for some flycutting
Everything is easier with the right tools and thanks to SPINMONSTER who rented his flycutting setup for my app which made it a breeze. I have been working on cars for 17 years but I have never flycut a piston before so I was just a nervous and cautious as the next guy. I took it very slow and read SPINMONSTERS flycutting thread quite a few time prior to starting.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...mpression.html
I back him 100%. If you have never done it before DONT USE POWER TOOLS!!! The tool shaves the piston like butter. It takes no time by hand to do it. Honestly it was very easy.
I kept pulling the head to check progress and remove the metal shavings.
Here is the motor ready for cutting. I cleaned everything up before taping it up. Clean the surface real good or the tape wont stick.
* sidenote: When you spin the motor over with all the tape on it you will see the tape draw down and blow out. Right when it starts to draw down stop!! Press the tape down and slow rotate back. Just keep pressing the tape down. You will see the piston reach its highest point.
Once the tool rested on the top of the piston I used my .60 shim and locked the collar down. I checked every hole just to make sure I cut .60 in every piston. {never know if one piston sits higher out of the hole then the next.}
I didnt bolt the tool/head down. The weight of the head seemed to be enough. I basicly let the tool do the job with mild pressure. I would watch the top of the head to see if I was applying to much pressure because it would raise up.
So here is after 10 turns
30 turns
50-55 turns
I didnt have a .060 shim so I used a .016/.014/.030 and taped it tight!
finished!! { dont laugh the motor has 90k and came from a escalade. LQ9 or basicly iron ls2}
I wish I had alot more pictures but it really was very simple and easy with very few steps. I hope this helps take some of the fear out of flycutting. It took me about 40mins to do 4 pistons just taking my time and checking my progress.
Big thanks to SPINMONSTER!! He did all the leg work to make so i can run the cam I want and made a scarey task very easy and simple.
I used the little cans of compressed air for cleaning keyboards to remove the shaving.
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06-18-2010, 07:45 AM
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added arp rod bolts. Checked all the bearings and everything looks great!!
dbrods gave me a good tip to remove the sleeve in the rod cap. Take the stock bolt out and feed it in a few threads from the rod side. put your fingers between the bolt head and cap so when you tap the bolt head on the table the bolt hit your finger instead of the cracked rod surface. worked like a charm
dbrods gave me a good tip to remove the sleeve in the rod cap. Take the stock bolt out and feed it in a few threads from the rod side. put your fingers between the bolt head and cap so when you tap the bolt head on the table the bolt hit your finger instead of the cracked rod surface. worked like a charm
06-18-2010, 07:47 AM
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Cleaning up the engine bay is way more work then I thought! Egokilr and myself spent a good major of the day making pieces,welding and grinding.
*running the grinder without ear plugs sux!!
removed the gas tank and exhaust {gonna run a fuel cell}
*running the grinder without ear plugs sux!!
removed the gas tank and exhaust {gonna run a fuel cell}
06-18-2010, 07:49 AM
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Well I decided today no fiberglass hood for me. I don't like cowl hoods personally and no one makes a 83-86 fiberglass stock looking hood. So I did what most won't do but **** it!! It's my car and I want the stock hood look. I gutted the stock hood. Not completely but the center section is gone with the latch mount. I left the safety latch.
Weighted excatly 40lbs
after first round 28lbs
Im not done!! Im gonna do a aluminum frame more then likely and make it a lift off
Weighted excatly 40lbs
after first round 28lbs
Im not done!! Im gonna do a aluminum frame more then likely and make it a lift off
Last edited by Clean94Z; 06-18-2010 at 07:56 AM.
06-18-2010, 09:50 AM
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That's about what I figured. A buddy of mine was one of the first t56 ls1 swaps years ago before people made headers etc etc and he spent around 15k for just the swap.
. 
06-27-2010, 07:18 PM
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Your doing pretty much what I'm goin for, but into an 85 notch... Wouldn't the hood still work even with the center section cut out? Shouldn't need any braces if it's going to be a lift off...