LS1 and 200-4r to L92 / T56 in 71 Chevelle convertible...now Gen V LT1 6L80e swapping
10-09-2012, 10:58 AM
#381
It came with a pump in it, but it is a **** pump and actually died on me as soon as I got the car to the tuners. Fortunately I had a walbro on hand and as soon as I swapped it in (a pain in the ***, not hard just time consuming) I was back to 55psi. In hindsight, I think I'd either use a stock tank with a tanks inc setup or look into some of the other options, I seem to recall reading somewhere that there was a another fairly new $400ish dollar option as well as a newer version of the spectra tank (I have the old one, not sure what changed). On my next swap I'm going to go cheaper on the fuel lines (using the nylon stuff oems have switched to, with cheap lines and fittings) and use the money saved for a better tank. They pop up from time to time in the classifieds here, pro-touring.com and lateral g. If you want to run an external pump you would probably have more options at lower prices.
10-09-2012, 12:52 PM
#383
I might be misremembering but I think it was off a 3.X L FWD Pontiac/ Chevy car (Cavalier or equivalent maybe?) from the early to mid ninties, it's made of metal and seems to work okay, though I did have to put a couple washers between the pump and the back of the bracket to get the spacing right.
Last edited by chuckd71; 02-20-2017 at 06:25 AM.
10-13-2012, 09:35 AM
#385
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
Depends on where the tranny sits "height wise" in the f body. You can get a t56 to fit in your Chevelle, if you put a body lift on it. It's not really the tunnel shape, it's the limit of how low, or high, you can get your tranny in, with the correct angle. In other words, there is probably more room under the f body. My .02.
10-13-2012, 10:01 AM
#386
Yeah, the height rather than the shape was what I was getting at, I wasn't entirely clear. I'm sure there would still be some trial and error with it but I was thinking that the trans tunnel on an f body was recessed quite a ways up into the cabin (I haven't been in one in years, so could be wrong) which would mean the hump and tunnel in an fbody would be taller than what is in my chevelle. I need to do some measuring but I was just kind of tossing ideas around, hoping that I could take the high parts of the f body and replace the low parts in my chevelle. Need to hit a junkyard and get a better idea I guess.
Last edited by chuckd71; 10-21-2012 at 11:44 PM.
10-13-2012, 12:41 PM
#387
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
Gotcha. Yeah, it might be worth measuring. Let us know.
10-23-2012, 12:44 PM
#388
Some hooker headers I scored on ebay for $225ish or so shipped:
[IMG][url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/21527394@N06/5060199299/]
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They came with gaskets, bolts and O2 extensions. I guess they fit car sensors because they won't fit mine. If you need them they are yours for $25 shipped (the extensions that is, I need the gaskets and bolts).
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These are the dirtydingo slider mounts. They space the engine up a bit and you can move it forward or back as much as you want (within reason). I'm planning on having a new drive shaft made anyway, but I like the idea of infinite adjustability in terms of engine placement.
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On the block with energy suspension tall/ narrow mounts:
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[IMG][url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/21527394@N06/5060199299/]
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[/IMG]They came with gaskets, bolts and O2 extensions. I guess they fit car sensors because they won't fit mine. If you need them they are yours for $25 shipped (the extensions that is, I need the gaskets and bolts).
[IMG]
[/IMG]These are the dirtydingo slider mounts. They space the engine up a bit and you can move it forward or back as much as you want (within reason). I'm planning on having a new drive shaft made anyway, but I like the idea of infinite adjustability in terms of engine placement.
[IMG]
[/IMG]On the block with energy suspension tall/ narrow mounts:
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10-23-2012, 02:35 PM
#389
The only issue with the headers was from the factory brake distribution block or whatever it's called on the inner driver's side frame rail, but I would think that might happen with any headers. The 02 bungs are nice to have already in place as well, one less thing to have to pay someone to do for me.
10-23-2012, 03:21 PM
#390
Nice. I ask because many have had issues with the Hooker's being tight and hanging rather low. Many have also said that they are unable to remove the engine without removing the driver side header.
10-23-2012, 05:10 PM
#391
Hmm, well I don't think they hang that low, and off hand I'm not sure if I had to take the header off or not. I seem to recall that I usually did but I'm not sure if that was because I had to or because working on jackstands getting them out of the way made it easier to reach the starter or trans bolts. Sorry I can't be of more help in this regard. Getting them in and out isn't that bad, I just use a rubber mallet and whack where the O2 bung is.
10-24-2012, 06:32 AM
#392
Aint it fun!!! Excellent work there! Mine's almost done too. Stuffed in an 02 GMMG Stage 2 475HP LS1 and didn't have to cut or chop anything since it's hooked up to a TCI TH400.
10-24-2012, 06:36 PM
#393
Looks good. Running a 350 or 400 would have been easier but I do a decent amount of interstate driving so OD is a must. Are you running A/C?
Not sure if I mentioned it before but I picked up some E46 convertible seats, power everything, even head rest, with built-in seat belts and forward-tilt for rear access. Assuming they fit they should be the ideal seats for an old convertible. Should be here in a few days.
Not sure if I mentioned it before but I picked up some E46 convertible seats, power everything, even head rest, with built-in seat belts and forward-tilt for rear access. Assuming they fit they should be the ideal seats for an old convertible. Should be here in a few days.
10-24-2012, 08:42 PM
#395
No, there isn't time to do anything car-wise with school being what it is. I hope to get a little bit done in a couple weeks over break, probably at least test fit the new seats and get them wired up, if it isn't too cold I might pull the motor and start from scratch with it, maybe just go ahead and throw in the holley efi and sell my current ecm and harness. Still trying to decide whether or not to t56 it as well, but that would certainly be a summer 2013 type of ordeal.
10-24-2012, 08:48 PM
#396
I think you just need to sit down and make a list of what is needed for the car to start. Then go down the list and verify.
It shouldn't be that hard. I wouldn't pull the motor just yet.
Doug
It shouldn't be that hard. I wouldn't pull the motor just yet.
Doug
10-29-2012, 10:56 PM
#397
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No, there isn't time to do anything car-wise with school being what it is. I hope to get a little bit done in a couple weeks over break, probably at least test fit the new seats and get them wired up, if it isn't too cold I might pull the motor and start from scratch with it, maybe just go ahead and throw in the holley efi and sell my current ecm and harness. Still trying to decide whether or not to t56 it as well, but that would certainly be a summer 2013 type of ordeal.
I also agree with the t56 swap but then you are making more work for yourself and still not driving. I still got a clutch pedal for a chevelle if you are interested (one less item to look for if thats a future plan). Either way You should focus on getting it runnin first and enjoy it a bit. Do the upgrades as the time and money allow.
10-30-2012, 10:47 AM
#398
I also agree with the t56 swap but then you are making more work for yourself and still not driving. I still got a clutch pedal for a chevelle if you are interested (one less item to look for if thats a future plan). Either way You should focus on getting it runnin first and enjoy it a bit. Do the upgrades as the time and money allow.
On to simpler matters, my seats came in and, not surprisingly, they were damaged during shipment - despite an over $400 charge for FedEx themselves to individually pack and ship them. I've taken a ton of pictures and filed a claim, and I think the broken pieces will be fairly easy to replace but still, it's a pain I was hoping to avoid.
Avoidable minor setback aside I think these seats will work well. As I mentioned before they are full power (I think the driver is heated, I haven't pulled it all the way out of the box yet) and so of course will need to be wired into the car. Fortunately the guy I bought these from was planning on doing something similar and was thoughtful enough to grab the needed connectors. The power and ground are (supposedly) all I will need, the rest of the wires communicate with something in the console for seat memory purposes and perhaps the explosive pretensioner. Something else to keep in mind if shopping for these is that some people will take the seat belt receptacles off and try to sell them separately, make sure you get them. This:
plugs in the yellow thing on the bottom here. The seat damage I was talking about is the broken handles on the lower front of the seat that control the movement of the lower cushion extensions. Unlike Sebring and some other seats I considered the seat tracks on these are flat and appear to be level. Pardon the floral furniture, it isn't mine.
Seats are in great shape, just a little dusty, the flash makes it look worse than it is. Silver trim on the sides will match the stock interior pretty well, not sure if I want to sell these seat covers and have a shop redo them in vinyl or just order enough pearl vinyl from Legendary to redo cover the center sections.
I know we've seen this car before but I either overlooked the seats or completely forgot about it. Looks like he had no problem using them in his firebird. http://www.pro-touring.com/showthrea...160#post612160
Last edited by chuckd71; 10-30-2012 at 09:51 PM.
10-31-2012, 10:06 PM
#400
Just read your entire thread! You got more patience and money than me! I would have burned it to the ground or sold it all by now and said to hell with it! 3 motors now, 2 fuel pumps, possibly 2 PCMS and wiring harnesses! Geez! But my hat is off to you for NOT giving up after all this time and setbacks!