Swageloks long term?
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On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2010
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Swageloks long term? For those of you using them in your fuel system, how are they holding up long term? Im considering them, and my concern is how well they work with fuel line, and the fuel rail long term. They specify specific wall thickness and Im not sure if fuel line is up to it.
I have a stainless steel 3/8" tube fitting union on my fuel rail. I have only started it a few times (zero miles, car isn't on the road yet) but it holds the pressure just fine... no fuel leaks, smell, etc. One end of the fitting is on my LS1 fuel rail, and the other is on a 3/8" steel brake line, which is rigid and probably (I think) somewhere around a 9,000 psi burst pressure. If you're using good tubing, I wouldn't worry that being the weak link. The Swagelok fitting I used had a working pressure in the 1,000s of psi, as per the distributor.
Swagelok makes an excellent precision industrial fitting. If you have any questions, go on their website, find your nearest dealer, and call them... even if you didn't buy it from them. Those guys really know their stuff.
Swagelok makes an excellent precision industrial fitting. If you have any questions, go on their website, find your nearest dealer, and call them... even if you didn't buy it from them. Those guys really know their stuff.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 174
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I have a stainless steel 3/8" tube fitting union on my fuel rail. I have only started it a few times (zero miles, car isn't on the road yet) but it holds the pressure just fine... no fuel leaks, smell, etc. One end of the fitting is on my LS1 fuel rail, and the other is on a 3/8" steel brake line, which is rigid and probably (I think) somewhere around a 9,000 psi burst pressure. If you're using good tubing, I wouldn't worry that being the weak link. The Swagelok fitting I used had a working pressure in the 1,000s of psi, as per the distributor.
Swagelok makes an excellent precision industrial fitting. If you have any questions, go on their website, find your nearest dealer, and call them... even if you didn't buy it from them. Those guys really know their stuff.
Swagelok makes an excellent precision industrial fitting. If you have any questions, go on their website, find your nearest dealer, and call them... even if you didn't buy it from them. Those guys really know their stuff.
Im not worried about the fitting, Im worried about the tube connected to the fitting.
On the LS1 fuel rail or your own aftermarket fuel line tubing?
What material is your fuel line tubing? Is it rigid (coming in straight lengths) or a easily bendable (coming in a coil)? Do you know the wall thickness?
What material is your fuel line tubing? Is it rigid (coming in straight lengths) or a easily bendable (coming in a coil)? Do you know the wall thickness?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2010
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It is going to be factory replacement GM fuel line. Or if I can't get the GM line that Im looking for, it will be the straight 3/8" brake line. Not sure on the thickness. Ive got aluminum russell line as well.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
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Im trying to avoid converting from inverted flare to AN. It would require several fittings.
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 43
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From: Saraland, Alabama
We use swagelok in our power house. The fittings have held up well for years under 1000psi steam pressure and 1400 psi oil pressure. I would not have a problem at all running thier fittings and stainless tubing in a fuel system.
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I will add myself to the list of people who use swagelok fittings on a daily basis. We put them through a ton of abuse and they keep taking it and not leaking. Our pressures vary from less than 20 psi all the way up to 2000 on gas bottles. They are some well made fittings.
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Jeepnut,
What are you trying to do? Going from a tube to AN (JIC) you can cut the tube, slide on a flare sleeve and nut. Now its a AN (JIC) -6. Done! The tube nut and sleeve are under $3.00.
http://www.goodvibesracing.com/Tube_Nuts.htm
I just googled -6 tube nut sleeve, they were the first ones. Check around, hydraulic shops and good race shops have this stuff.
I used it in my fuel system, measure, cut, slide nut and sleeve on tube, and flare it.
Check my photobucket, you will get the idea.
What are you trying to do? Going from a tube to AN (JIC) you can cut the tube, slide on a flare sleeve and nut. Now its a AN (JIC) -6. Done! The tube nut and sleeve are under $3.00.
http://www.goodvibesracing.com/Tube_Nuts.htm
I just googled -6 tube nut sleeve, they were the first ones. Check around, hydraulic shops and good race shops have this stuff.
I used it in my fuel system, measure, cut, slide nut and sleeve on tube, and flare it.
Check my photobucket, you will get the idea.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2010
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I want hardlines under the Jeep along the frame rail. I picked up a GM filter and will be picking up the matching saginaw fuel line. I plan to run braided stainless at the motor and tank. However, I have heard from several that a single flare on plain steel line is not to good idea. Hence the reason Im not using a tube/nut solution. The swagelok sounds like the perfect solution. I would double flare the line, but I can't find a good solution from 3/8 IFF to -6AN....
I use my jeep offroad, and want some reliability in it. I don't want an issue miles off the beaten path.
I use my jeep offroad, and want some reliability in it. I don't want an issue miles off the beaten path.
I know that a single flare in a brake line is bad news because of the high pressure that your braking system operates at. However, a single flare is more than enough for a regular fuel line... or even a high pressure fuel line.
Most 3/8" brake tubing is rated at about 1,300 psi operating pressure, 9,000 psi burst pressure. Your fuel system is probably around 60 psi, so you should be fine.
Most 3/8" brake tubing is rated at about 1,300 psi operating pressure, 9,000 psi burst pressure. Your fuel system is probably around 60 psi, so you should be fine.
I want hardlines under the Jeep along the frame rail. I picked up a GM filter and will be picking up the matching saginaw fuel line. I plan to run braided stainless at the motor and tank. However, I have heard from several that a single flare on plain steel line is not to good idea. Hence the reason Im not using a tube/nut solution. The swagelok sounds like the perfect solution. I would double flare the line, but I can't find a good solution from 3/8 IFF to -6AN....
I use my jeep offroad, and want some reliability in it. I don't want an issue miles off the beaten path.
I use my jeep offroad, and want some reliability in it. I don't want an issue miles off the beaten path.
I ran stainless hard line and used a hydraulic flaring tool from Mastercool to put the GM quick connect flare on it. That way I could connect directly to the filter / regulator. I flared another quick connect on the line at the firewall and then ran AN-6 braided line to the fuel rail with the Russel AN-6 to quick connect adapters on both ends. So far it has worked great.
