Please post up an pictures and links/info you have of notching your frame for clearance in a 1st gen Camaro/Firebird or 3rd gen Nova. Notch could be for an ac compressor, alternator, oilpan or ?

Here is one example of notching the frame to clear a low mount ac compressor:

http://mcspeed.homestead.com/69_Cama...urrection.html

 

Another example. Not sure, but you may have to be logged into lat-g for this to work.

http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sho...a-LS1&p=610358

 

Good pictures here if you are a lat-g member
http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/atta...8&d=1236383265
http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/atta...0&d=1236383265
http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/atta...9&d=1236383265

You may have to be logged in to lateral-g.net for these to work:

 

This is what I 'm waiting on my VA kit for,

I posted in my thread the my parts guy went to SEMA, so maybe next week, but the pic on lateral G may work where I dont need a bracket to do the compressor mock up, may just cut and weld,

Thanks for the pics!!!

 

Here is a picture of the BRP a/c frame notch kit.



Price is $25.00 for the piece...you notch the frame and weld in.

http://www.brphotrods.com/mm5/mercha...gory_Code=CNV1

 

very nice, thanks for posting, looks like a really simple way to do it!

 

I contacted the builder from the above frame notch to get more info on his compressor mounting and here was his response. He sent some more pictures of his fabricated brackets which I am posting. This is great stuff!

 

I like the frame notch, but I'm going to stay with the 2 belts,

Just talked to the guys at BRP, great bunch, mines on the way!

 

When you say you are going to stick with the 2 belts, do you mean you plan to run the compressor off the 4 groove section of the crank? If so, are you sure putting the compressor that far back wont interfere with the motor mount? Are you using BRP's mounts?

 

You know I could be totally wrong, maybe teh VA kits moves everything foward and it runs off the main belt, I'll have to check the VA site,

Been 3 long day,s 12 hrs, up at 1am to work at 2am home at 3:30, I'll have to refresh my memory at the VA site,

 

If you want to use the oem AC compressor, You cannot use any of the standard or 1" set back type of plates.. (S&P, ATS, Edelbrock, Hooker, etc).. as the plate comes into contact with the AC Compressor. I have checked that out already. That is way many who use those type of plates have to go with Aftermarket AC kits and brackets. Relocating the Compressor up top.

You have to mount your engine with the way BRP does. Using Early BRP style of plates and relocating the Frame Stands. Notching is required also.

There new kit is suppose to be able to mount the OEM compressor also.

 

I know the VA kit has a Sanden 508, I was going to use a stock one but both systems work on variable pressure so supposedly the VA kit will kill the OEM compressor, but I've heard different also,

 

Bump for more info. I am getting close to putting mine under the knife.

 

I did a little cross-member notch for my Moroso oil pan. I cut three sides, pushed down the top of the cross member, and then closed it back up with ½"x½" angle.

 

NIce,

I got my piece to weld in, been working on the DD and the mini tub, measure twice cut once,

 

btt for more

 

Little blurry, better one to come!!!

 

Do you need to Notch the Frame for the alternator on the 1st gen Camaro/Firebird or 3rd gen Nova's? I have been looking at my car and it don't look like need to on my 1972 Nova but it looks like the alternator will be close to the frame.

 

That depends on what alternator, accessory spacing, and engine mounting location you're using.

 

Here is a notch I did on the driver's side to low mount a large DR44 truck alternator. The bottom plate was radiused by bending it around a pole in my garage. It is 3-1/2" deep from the front face with a 3-1/2" radius and the lower surface is even with the top of the lower control arm bolt access hole.









Here is a shot of the interior to show how the rear plate connects down to the lower part of the frame.