speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

I have done it both ways. I bought a kit from ebay as a matter of convenience. If you have all of the parts from a disc brake a-body car, that would definitely be cheaper.

If you build it with used parts you just have to make sure the rotors are still thick enough and then have them cut. You have to make sure that the calipers are good or buy new ones from the auto parts store. You will have to fabricate the brake hard-lines. I recommend buying new flexible lines. Make sure you have and install the correct disc brake proportioning valve. Buy all new seals and bearings. Other than those things, used should be fine.

FYI, I paid $485 for my disc brake kit and that included power master, master cylinder, all lines, proportioning valve, new spindles, rotors, bearings and seals. You just have to shop around and look carefully at what is included.

Oh, and one other thing about the kits: The kit I bought had 2 problems. 1. the drivers side front brake hard-line was incorrect. So, a new line had to be fabricated. 2. The master cylinder pushrod was too long and had to be cut down.

sleepy88

iTrader: (5)

Thanks! I just looked on ebay and saw a kit for $490 that looks like it had everything i need. The stuff i have will need new rotors, master cylinder, calipers pads and lines so i pricing it out it seems that the ebay kit may be the way to go. I just finished swapping an ls6 into a foxbody mustang....Hope this one goes easier.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

It should be a really straight forward swap. I think the big things in A-bodies are the oil pan and the headers.

SMS

Just a quick question for my own future reference, Are the headers/oil pan you are using the same as a Chevelle? I would think an A body is the same, Buick or Chevy.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

Chevelle/Malibu
Lemans/Tempest/GTO
Cutlass/442
Skylark/Special

These are all A-bodies and all the same for 64 & 65. Most suspension parts interchange from 64-72, but when it comes to headers make sure they specifically fit 64 & 65.

Today I built the brackets to hold my console in place. Normally the console bolts to the factory shifter in the front, but I am using an after market shifter (B&M Quicksilver). So, brackets had to be built. Here are a few pics of what I came up with. The first 3 pics are of the front bracket, the last photo is of the rear bracket. The last pic of the rear bracket is terrible as the light was fading.

Today I received my coil covers from PACE Performance. These coil covers are Edelbrock Hot Rod coil covers without the Edelbrock logo.

I think they are a nice, clean solution and a nice look for muscle cars. However, they do not clear the factory Corvette alternator bracket and alternator. So, the drivers side must be modified.

Below are some pictures of the needed modifications and the finished install.

futureuser

iTrader: (1)

Your work looks great! Have you seen your Mast pan yet? I got the email that they had some ready.

nevermind just read your post on other thread

Irish350

iTrader: (14)

lol, i can imagine some looks later when you pop the hood... "you cut out the front of your valvecover??"

lookin good

SMS

I didn't even know they made those covers. I suppose they will only fit engine swap applications where there is extra room? Very cool for a more vintage look

I am going to give the 455 in my 72 a fighting chance, but if it ever spins a bearing, or self destructs in any way, I am going LS with it. The cost for each engine vs how much hp is returned makes it a no-brainer. Purists be damned! Car is a clone anyway.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

HA! No doubt. They really do look more like big block valve covers than coil covers.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Nice job trimming those up. They look good. People will definitely be taking a second glance trying to figure out what kind of engine that is.

FU2

1 Your build is coming along great, been watching it for a while.
2 As an old Buick racer with a long history. This LS retrofit IS the way to go. Can't beat technology.

Back to lurk mode.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

Thanx for all the positive comments. It is great motivation for me. I am enjoying the build and doing my best to document everything. I hope it is helpful to others.

As I wait for my Mast pan to be shipped there is just one more decision to make: Will I buy full length headers or mid-length headers? I have looked at all the full length brands that I am aware of. All of which had their share of problems. However, one long tube brand seems to stand out for the 64-65 A-body cars. Three different people told me that Doug's headers had good fit and great ground clearance.

Here is what I learned about each brand:

Edelbrock - Stainless, nice looking coating, exceptionally good fit but very poor ground clearance ranging from between 1 1/2" - 2" below the crossmember and high difficulty servicing the starter on vehicles with full bellhousings.

Hooker - They do not fit the 64-65s. The people I spoke to either moved tubes or sent them back.

Hedman/BRP - Have not found a single person using them on a 64-65 but people on other years say they are a good fit on A-bodies but the hang below the crossmember between a 1" & 1/1/2".

Doug's - Good fit, excellent ground clearance, only 1 person complained of having to ding a few tubes to clear but that was on a 68-72. 1 person complained that the coated version was starting to show signs of surface rust.

So, here I am ready to pull the trigger. I just have to decide. The BRP mid-length or the Doug's full-length headers. The BRP mids have ease of fit, less underhood heat (this is Florida) and room to work around them. However, I want the power and sound of the long tubes but I do not want any hassles. If the Doug's are as good as I have been told, they may be pretty hassle free. Near as I can tell, there is probably 20 ft. lbs. or torque and 15 hp. difference between the two. The Doug's cost about $90 more.

Now all I have to do is make a decision................

Earl Filter

iTrader: (1)

One more "love the car" for ya!

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

Thanx guys!

ModMuscle,

Doug's has their own mounts. They look a lot like the Edelbrock mounts in the pictures that I saw. However, it looks like they have holes for two positions. Perhaps to move the motor backward if you want to.

1967BuickGS400

Build is looking good.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

Thanx! I am surprised at how many Buick guys I am seeing over here.

I ordered the Doug's Headers #D3338 today. I am anxious to see that they fit as nicely as people have told me.

Irish350

iTrader: (14)

Diggin it..

I was going to say go w dougs; Im getting rid of the hooker LTs i just got for my mustang because of the poor clearance, switching to dougs tri-ys.

Do you really think theres that big a power discrepancy from mids to the lts? Id believe 20 ftlbs/15 hp from shorties/the better flowing manifolds to LTs, but from those mids? Idk, they just look like theyd flow better than that..

Anywho, whens all this stuff getting there?

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

The headers should be here the end of this week. The oil pan is promised to be shipped the end of this week, but they have been saying that for 2 months.

Everything else on this build is ready to rock.

chevelledaddy

Awsome build and sweet ride!!!!!!

Monte4ever

iTrader: (2)

Just read your whole thread. Great build and I can't wait to see the results after everything comes together.

You asked me in another thread about the ground clearance with BRP's headers which was 1 1/2" to 2" from the crossmember. But they are only maybe 1" below the lower A arm giving them more than enough ground clearance.