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SUCK in the rain, dangerous compared to the 3754R. better then a slick, acts like a stiff wall slick. But seem to work better in the upper psi range, I ran them at around 16-18 pnds.
Good thing is that they will recover well. The radials once they spin its pretty much over, where as the bias will recover and I still can put down a good pass.
Well, the TH200-4R transmission has been a trooper. But, it appears that running well into the 9s at #3700 with wheels up 1.3 60' times might be the limit. I have broken the rear planetaries 2 times now and there is no stronger upgrade part for that.
So, we have a new Extreme Automatics 4L80 on deck. It has a new design billet CNC reverse manual valve body with Griner trans brake and a Circle D 245mm 2c torque converter. Lonnie says this unit is up to the task no problem:
The 4L80 fits in the car, but uses every inch of the trans tunnel. One problem area was that there was no room for traditional trans cooler lines. Luckily I found these custom made 90 degree 1/4 NPS to 6an 90 degree fittings made by Middle Finger Speed Shop:
The driveshaft is being cut down now and they say I will have the shaft back no later than Friday.
Last edited by speedtigger; 03-02-2016 at 02:50 PM.
[QUOTE=speedtigger;19169984]Well, the TH200-4R transmission has been a trooper. But, it appears that running well into the 9s at #3700 with wheels up 1.3 60' times might be the limit. I have broken the rear planetaries 2 times now and there is no stronger upgrade part for that....
I owned a Grand National and have a 2004R behind my LS in my 73 Camaro, I was wondering how long it would last in your car.
Steve, if your car is on the rack can you measure the distance between the frame rails? I am thinking of getting the lighter Holley transmission support brace. Thank You
Steve, if your car is on the rack can you measure the distance between the frame rails? I am thinking of getting the lighter Holley transmission support brace. Thank You
Somehow I missed this post. I will try to measure it tonight.
What size rotors? Heck just give us the specifications. Hehehe
I have 11" front and rear with factory calipers. I finally got mine to stop pretty good by upgrading the pads to ones with more "grip". EBC red pads?
Going to change out the master cylinder again to one with 1" bore for even more pressure and also loose some weight in the process. Current one has a 1 1/8" bore. The new one is off like 1999 S10 and has the correct fittings.
Are you running larger rotors on the front-not sure how large you can go with a 15" rim.
Were you able to get the driveline at a good angle with the 80E, I tried one in my 65 Special, but engine was to high and I would have had to cut the floor out-Holley eng. (Todd) has just dev. a kit for 64-67 A bodies, using their pan to drop it lower-I think the pan will clear a stroker with some tweaking-I think parts avail soon. They test fitted an 80E
I used the middle Finger fittings, they work great-there are some banjo ones out, but if you don't line up the bolt with the hole, you can feel the rest. just blowing thru it.
I have the Streetlights, dev. a leak where the spoke hits the hoop, inspection showed the rim cracked all around, could only see it after breaking down the tire-since they had a 3 year wart., I sent both back and I guess they re rimmed them, no charge-I am a little susp. of them, maybe becoming paranoid, lol
Are you running larger rotors on the front-not sure how large you can go with a 15" rim.
As I learned this week, it depends on the wheel. Billet Specialties Street Lites have a very small barrel. So, they are problematic. I have been told that the Weld RTS have better clearance.
The particular brake kit that bought (Wilwood 140-13203) has about a .200" narrower track per side than the 71 Skylark factory disc brakes that I removed. Oddly enough, I need a .200" spacer to clear the calipers. So, with those wheel spacers, my track width will be back where it was with the 71 Lark factory discs.
On the rear I run 15x8 Street Lites with 5.5" backspace and a 1/2" billet spacer. Even with that spacer, the calipersin this Wilwood 140-7578 brake kit need to be shaved to clear the barrel of the wheels. But, I can make it work.
I must say though, the whole deal has me tempted to just buy a set of RTS. I am just now sure how they would look on the Lark.
Originally Posted by forcd ind
Were you able to get the driveline at a good angle with the 80E, I tried one in my 65 Special, but engine was to high and I would have had to cut the floor out
I made my own engine mounts. From what I can see, my engine is lower and further back than most kits. I still have a fair amount of angle in the engine and trans. More than I would like. But, I have not chosen to cut the floor pan yet.
Last edited by speedtigger; 06-28-2016 at 02:31 PM.
The Street Lites just aren't going to work on the back with any decent sized brakes. Weld RTS wheels will clear the brakes in 15", but I have to choose between S71 polished, S71 black or S77 models. I know the black centers are really popular now, but I am afraid the having black centers on a 15" wheel on a black car will be too dark.
12-14-2015, 09:17 PM
