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Aluminum 5.3 block engines

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Old 11-25-2010, 07:45 AM
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Default Lifters

Did you swap out all 8 lifters? Or just the four?
Old 11-25-2010, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Schwanke Engines
we have kits to get you up and running, chesk out our Ebay page in my sig.
Our PCM and harness kit is $500!!! This would be a base cal and everything you need.
Check it out, we also have complete kits with fuel system upgrades.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/E482-...Q5fCarQ5fParts
The front cam sensor has a white plug........so what wheel is in these engines?
Old 11-25-2010, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by JAC
Did you swap out all 8 lifters? Or just the four?
All 8, only because I had a new set laying around. In case anyone is curious, this also requires changing out the lifter guides to the LS2 types. LH6 style on the left, LS2 on the right:

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Old 11-25-2010, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by JAC
While GEN lV all-aluminum 5.3's are desirable engines, it takes quite a bit of work and expense to make them usable in anything except their original use. Good luck! Ron
What do you consider quite a bit of expense? That only relates to HP per dollar I suppose or a persons own pocketbook.

These engines cost 2k a peiece and are guaranteed and could not find any brand new engine with an aluminum block for that kind of money.[/QUOTE]

You are right that expense and work means different things to different people. You got an excellent deal on the engines. It also makes a big difference if you can do the work yourself or have to hire someone else to do it. My friend says I've been telling it wrong. The engine we have came out of an '05 ENVOY instead of Tahoe. My bad. It is the same as the one *98blackSS * mentioned. One thing that should be mentioned is the oil pan. The DOD pans have a pressure regulator built in. If you change to a different pan when you do an engine swap, you can run into problems. The DOD engines have a special high pressure oil pump. This supplies the high pressure needed to de-activate the eight special lifters when the solenoids call for it. Some have tried running the engine just the way it comes, only with a different pan.If you searched, there is a thread from someone who tried this and found that the high pressure that resulted gradually collapsed the lifters and caused the engine to miss. Here is what we did.....pulled the heads, replaced the lifters, tapped the towers in the valley for 3/8x16 threads, bought set screws at LOWE'S to plug them. You can buy the smooth valley cover with the O-rings to do this. At the time, we had the cover and NOBODY had the O-rings. they were on national back order. We used the gasket off the DOD cover by cutting the center out. Worked great! Anyway, we replaced the pan with a new F-body pan (used ones were as high as new). We tried using the original oil pump (some said it worked for them) DIDN'T work for us. Would peg a 100lb
guage at idle. Put in a new LS6 oil pump. Almost forgot, replaced the plastic lifter retainers that *98blackSS * showed in his post. Since this engine was 24X, and since we wanted cable Throttle Body, we used a 2002 intake, TB, and PCM #411 and wiring harness. I reworked it according to instructions and pictures on this web site, www.lt1swap.com. This also required re-sizing and re-tapping the holes for the GEN lV knock sensors to use the GEN lll knock sensors. You also have to extend the wires on the GEN lll cam sensor plug and reverse the two outside wires on the plug itself. These steps are only necessary if you use the early PCM and wiring. So...that's my defination of work and expense . I'm sure there are many other ways to do it. Ron

Last edited by rojs234; 11-26-2010 at 10:39 AM. Reason: forgot a couple things
Old 11-27-2010, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by rojs234
What do you consider quite a bit of expense? That only relates to HP per dollar I suppose or a persons own pocketbook.

These engines cost 2k a peiece and are guaranteed and could not find any brand new engine with an aluminum block for that kind of money.
You are right that expense and work means different things to different people. You got an excellent deal on the engines. It also makes a big difference if you can do the work yourself or have to hire someone else to do it. My friend says I've been telling it wrong. The engine we have came out of an '05 ENVOY instead of Tahoe. My bad. It is the same as the one *98blackSS * mentioned. One thing that should be mentioned is the oil pan. The DOD pans have a pressure regulator built in. If you change to a different pan when you do an engine swap, you can run into problems. The DOD engines have a special high pressure oil pump. This supplies the high pressure needed to de-activate the eight special lifters when the solenoids call for it. Some have tried running the engine just the way it comes, only with a different pan.If you searched, there is a thread from someone who tried this and found that the high pressure that resulted gradually collapsed the lifters and caused the engine to miss. Here is what we did.....pulled the heads, replaced the lifters, tapped the towers in the valley for 3/8x16 threads, bought set screws at LOWE'S to plug them. You can buy the smooth valley cover with the O-rings to do this. At the time, we had the cover and NOBODY had the O-rings. they were on national back order. We used the gasket off the DOD cover by cutting the center out. Worked great! Anyway, we replaced the pan with a new F-body pan (used ones were as high as new). We tried using the original oil pump (some said it worked for them) DIDN'T work for us. Would peg a 100lb
guage at idle. Put in a new LS6 oil pump. Almost forgot, replaced the plastic lifter retainers that *98blackSS * showed in his post. Since this engine was 24X, and since we wanted cable Throttle Body, we used a 2002 intake, TB, and PCM #411 and wiring harness. I reworked it according to instructions and pictures on this web site, www.lt1swap.com. This also required re-sizing and re-tapping the holes for the GEN lV knock sensors to use the GEN lll knock sensors. You also have to extend the wires on the GEN lll cam sensor plug and reverse the two outside wires on the plug itself. These steps are only necessary if you use the early PCM and wiring. So...that's my defination of work and expense . I'm sure there are many other ways to do it. Ron[/QUOTE]
Old 11-27-2010, 06:13 PM
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That info was valuable man.......wow...worth the post for sure.......All the info is appreciated but thats a home run.........Thanks to all who have replied!
Old 11-16-2011, 04:19 AM
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Originally Posted by JAC
That info was valuable man.......wow...worth the post for sure.......All the info is appreciated but thats a home run.........Thanks to all who have replied!
So does the LH6 trailblazer envoy 5.3 have flat top pistons?
Old 11-16-2011, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 94camaroz28lt1
So does the LH6 trailblazer envoy 5.3 have flat top pistons?
It has 9.95:1 compression. Does that answer your question?

http://archives.media.gm.com/divisio...ain/index.html

Andrew
Old 01-29-2012, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 94camaroz28lt1
So does the LH6 trailblazer envoy 5.3 have flat top pistons?
Mine does but it came from an '06 Envoy.



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