My 67 Camaro Build/Photos
07-18-2011, 12:53 AM
#101
tsnow, thanks for the encouragement & offer to lend the clips.
When first trying to install the headliner, I bought lots of those extra-wide black clips from Staples to help secure the headliner. They work really well, by holding sections of the material in place while the glue dries. I thought I was home free, except that, just like you, the temperature was too low to stretch it. It ended up looking as if someone who doesn't know how to mount a headliner, mounted the headliner.
With 90deg days upon us, the material may stretch more, so I'll make another attempt.
When first trying to install the headliner, I bought lots of those extra-wide black clips from Staples to help secure the headliner. They work really well, by holding sections of the material in place while the glue dries. I thought I was home free, except that, just like you, the temperature was too low to stretch it. It ended up looking as if someone who doesn't know how to mount a headliner, mounted the headliner.
With 90deg days upon us, the material may stretch more, so I'll make another attempt.
07-18-2011, 09:53 AM
#102
tsnow, thanks for the encouragement & offer to lend the clips.
When first trying to install the headliner, I bought lots of those extra-wide black clips from Staples to help secure the headliner. They work really well, by holding sections of the material in place while the glue dries. I thought I was home free, except that, just like you, the temperature was too low to stretch it. It ended up looking as if someone who doesn't know how to mount a headliner, mounted the headliner.
With 90deg days upon us, the material may stretch more, so I'll make another attempt.
When first trying to install the headliner, I bought lots of those extra-wide black clips from Staples to help secure the headliner. They work really well, by holding sections of the material in place while the glue dries. I thought I was home free, except that, just like you, the temperature was too low to stretch it. It ended up looking as if someone who doesn't know how to mount a headliner, mounted the headliner.
With 90deg days upon us, the material may stretch more, so I'll make another attempt.
08-01-2011, 09:43 AM
#103
The last week has been spent trying to get the driveshaft to slide back in to the tranny.
After removing the rear seal to fix a tailshaft leak, the metal spring which wraps around the seal was found broken and hanging out the tailshaft. This explains why it was leaking.
I pulled on the spring, but it wouldn't come out easily. Tools would not release it either. So, I gave it a yank, and out it came.
The new seal was installed. The driveshaft, which slid in perfectly last summer, would not go back in. I've inspected everything...splines, bushing surfaces (as best as I can see it in the tailshaft). The broken spring may have been wedged into the back edge of the bushing, and possibly pulled on it.
I've lubed it, then wrapped on it with a rubber hammer, no go.
I'd like to fix this myself, as I don't trust bringing it to a tranny shop ("that'll be $791.52, sir!").
That the tranny is a TKO could make it difficult to find someone local to fix it (1 3/4" yoke).
So, I'm debating removing the tailshaft, then taking it to someone who can change the bushing.
There has to be a simple way to cause the bushing to reshape itself within the tail.
I'm out to the garage to give it another go. Wish me luck!
After removing the rear seal to fix a tailshaft leak, the metal spring which wraps around the seal was found broken and hanging out the tailshaft. This explains why it was leaking.
I pulled on the spring, but it wouldn't come out easily. Tools would not release it either. So, I gave it a yank, and out it came.
The new seal was installed. The driveshaft, which slid in perfectly last summer, would not go back in. I've inspected everything...splines, bushing surfaces (as best as I can see it in the tailshaft). The broken spring may have been wedged into the back edge of the bushing, and possibly pulled on it.
I've lubed it, then wrapped on it with a rubber hammer, no go.
I'd like to fix this myself, as I don't trust bringing it to a tranny shop ("that'll be $791.52, sir!").
That the tranny is a TKO could make it difficult to find someone local to fix it (1 3/4" yoke).
So, I'm debating removing the tailshaft, then taking it to someone who can change the bushing.
There has to be a simple way to cause the bushing to reshape itself within the tail.
I'm out to the garage to give it another go. Wish me luck!
08-01-2011, 11:19 AM
#104
Well, OK then!
I've located the proper bushing, and also found a tool online that removes & installs bushings without removing the tail.
Having the TKO has made it a bit difficult to locate the proper parts, as the driveshaft diameter is 1 5/8, rather than the standard 1 1/2 on the T56.
They should be here before the end of the week.
I've located the proper bushing, and also found a tool online that removes & installs bushings without removing the tail.
Having the TKO has made it a bit difficult to locate the proper parts, as the driveshaft diameter is 1 5/8, rather than the standard 1 1/2 on the T56.
They should be here before the end of the week.
08-01-2011, 11:51 AM
#105
Just curious, the interference is not from the new seal is it? Have you tried to remove the new seal and test fit the yoke? Your yoke doesnt have a keyed spline? Look in the yoke and see if there is a spline that is wider than the rest. If so you will have to locate it to align with the output shaft. Just a couple of ideas. Does the tapered end of the yoke have any burrs or nicks that might hinder it from going in?
08-01-2011, 03:11 PM
#106
Just curious, the interference is not from the new seal is it? Have you tried to remove the new seal and test fit the yoke? Your yoke doesnt have a keyed spline? Look in the yoke and see if there is a spline that is wider than the rest. If so you will have to locate it to align with the output shaft. Just a couple of ideas. Does the tapered end of the yoke have any burrs or nicks that might hinder it from going in?
The yoke is missing one spline, but is not keyed. I inspected the yoke and the tailshaft to verify this. Calls to Keisler & another vendor verified this.
While the yoke is easily inspected (no burrs), the output shaft is not. I've been using a mirror & light to check the out-shaft. I was very, very careful with the initial removal of the drive shaft, so I don't believe that that's damaged.
Don't mind the pun, but I think the 'key' is this...as the driveshaft is initially inserted, I can turn the whole thing by hand. When the driveshaft is further inserted, it can no longer be turned bec it is so tight. This lead me to believe that the bushing is no longer seated against the inside of the tailshaft.
It's my fault. I got a bit overzealous when removing that spring.
Thanks for the ideas, tsnow!
08-01-2011, 03:20 PM
#107
Hate to hear that! I believe you are right on the bushing. I just cant see the tension spring causing this much problems. Did the driveshaft come out freely before you pulled the spring out? The bushing should be in there way deeper than the seal. Do you think the spring may have damaged the yoke since it was hanging out and the driveshaft was turning against it? Do you have a 1"-2" O.D micrometer? I would mic around the yoke and see if somehow the spring may have caused high spots on the yoke. If so an easy sanding may take care of it. I am sure you have thought of all of this but just thought I would throw it out there.
08-01-2011, 04:15 PM
#108
Hate to hear that! I believe you are right on the bushing. I just cant see the tension spring causing this much problems. Did the driveshaft come out freely before you pulled the spring out? The bushing should be in there way deeper than the seal. Do you think the spring may have damaged the yoke since it was hanging out and the driveshaft was turning against it? Do you have a 1"-2" O.D micrometer? I would mic around the yoke and see if somehow the spring may have caused high spots on the yoke. If so an easy sanding may take care of it. I am sure you have thought of all of this but just thought I would throw it out there.
tsnow..." I just cant see the tension spring causing this much problems.
I have to agree with you, here, and keep replaying the sequence of events.
The broken spring end was hooked onto something within the tail/actually lodged/wedged inside the tail. I either scored the bronze bushing, or somehow caused the bushing to pull.
If in fact this is it, you might think that a bit of burnishing would fix it. But it didn't...which makes me think that the bushing is not seated.
The bushing sits directly behind the rubber seal.
The yoke is mirror smooth, looks brand new.
I'll have a few days to re-inspect before the tool & part arrives.
08-11-2011, 11:16 AM
#114
The plot thickens....
When last I reported, the KEISLER TRANSMISSION tailshaft seal was leaking with less than 200 mis on the unit. I pulled the seal-should be an easy fix, right? The internal spring which keeps the seal tight around the the tailshaft had broken, and was hanging out the tail. The other end of the spring was wedged into something within the tail. It wouldn't come out easily, so I gave it a pull and out it came.
This is when the trouble began. From here, I found that the driveshaft would not go back in...it was too tight within the tail bushing. I spent hours on the 'net', & on the phone trying to get the proper tool to withdraw the faulty bushing. Then, I found a tool & the bushings. In between all of this, I tried burnishing the bushing, and all manner of massaging the parts. Nothing worked. The difficult part was trying to work upside down & backwards under the car with the exhaust in the way.
The bushing is so tight in there, that one of the cheap-steel metal leafs of the tool broke inside the tailshaft.
At this point, I'm a week & a half into this.
But, it gets better!
I gave up and decided to flatbed the car to a trusted tranny shop.
It should be a simple matter for them (@ $92 hr) to replace the bushing, right?
The owner called me this AM to report that the bushing is so tight, he can't get it out, either. Well then, the next best thing would be to remove the tailshaft housing, right? He then tells me that this is not a standard (don't mind the pun) T5, & that the whole tranny must be removed. He asked me to call Keisler & ask if the warranty would cover any of this. Keisler also verif that the entire tranny must be removed.
Even though the tranny had been purchased in 08, it hadn't been installed until last year, which meant that Keisler would accept it to their facility under warranty. It also means that my shop would not be allowed to do the warranty work.
I thought that by the time I removed the unit, payed for shipping back & forth, that it wouldn't be worth it.
So, I'm gonna pay to have my shop do the work. One final 'pinch', if you will...the mechanic that the shop owner wants to work on my car will be on vac for the next week.
If I had thought about the Keisler warranty a bit more, I might have made a different decision about buying this particular tranny.
No complaining guys, just reporting the facts!
I must REALLY love this car. And, I do!
Stay tuned.
When last I reported, the KEISLER TRANSMISSION tailshaft seal was leaking with less than 200 mis on the unit. I pulled the seal-should be an easy fix, right? The internal spring which keeps the seal tight around the the tailshaft had broken, and was hanging out the tail. The other end of the spring was wedged into something within the tail. It wouldn't come out easily, so I gave it a pull and out it came.
This is when the trouble began. From here, I found that the driveshaft would not go back in...it was too tight within the tail bushing. I spent hours on the 'net', & on the phone trying to get the proper tool to withdraw the faulty bushing. Then, I found a tool & the bushings. In between all of this, I tried burnishing the bushing, and all manner of massaging the parts. Nothing worked. The difficult part was trying to work upside down & backwards under the car with the exhaust in the way.
The bushing is so tight in there, that one of the cheap-steel metal leafs of the tool broke inside the tailshaft.
At this point, I'm a week & a half into this.
But, it gets better!
I gave up and decided to flatbed the car to a trusted tranny shop.
It should be a simple matter for them (@ $92 hr) to replace the bushing, right?
The owner called me this AM to report that the bushing is so tight, he can't get it out, either. Well then, the next best thing would be to remove the tailshaft housing, right? He then tells me that this is not a standard (don't mind the pun) T5, & that the whole tranny must be removed. He asked me to call Keisler & ask if the warranty would cover any of this. Keisler also verif that the entire tranny must be removed.
Even though the tranny had been purchased in 08, it hadn't been installed until last year, which meant that Keisler would accept it to their facility under warranty. It also means that my shop would not be allowed to do the warranty work.
I thought that by the time I removed the unit, payed for shipping back & forth, that it wouldn't be worth it.
So, I'm gonna pay to have my shop do the work. One final 'pinch', if you will...the mechanic that the shop owner wants to work on my car will be on vac for the next week.
If I had thought about the Keisler warranty a bit more, I might have made a different decision about buying this particular tranny.
No complaining guys, just reporting the facts!
I must REALLY love this car. And, I do!
Stay tuned.
08-11-2011, 07:56 PM
#117
tsnow,
Just before I read your comment, the shop owner called to ask if I had had trouble removing this very plate. He said that the hex bolts (can't think of the proper term for these right now) were not coming out easily (he bent the wrench). While he was telling me this, I could envision the money clock rolling along, and he hadn't even removed the trans yet.
I've removed a couple of trannys before, and I told myself that it would never happed again. Putting it all back in is a bigger chore.
This evening is turning into a cool one. You know, the kind of cool moist air that really powers up an engine.
Wish I was out there!
08-11-2011, 08:06 PM
#118
Here's a non-conventional idea.
If I had a long thin metal cutting blade to insert into a jigsaw, I could cut that darn bushing at the bottom, length-wise, then pry it out with a screwdriver.
The blade would not injure the tailshaft surface at the bottom, because there is a gulley there which runs the length of the bushing.
Even if the gulley obtained a scar from the cut, it would affect nothing.
I'll call the trans guy in the AM to see if this might work.
Mr. GoodShaft!
If I had a long thin metal cutting blade to insert into a jigsaw, I could cut that darn bushing at the bottom, length-wise, then pry it out with a screwdriver.
The blade would not injure the tailshaft surface at the bottom, because there is a gulley there which runs the length of the bushing.
Even if the gulley obtained a scar from the cut, it would affect nothing.
I'll call the trans guy in the AM to see if this might work.
Mr. GoodShaft!
08-11-2011, 09:03 PM
#119
Mr. Goodshaft indeed!
Concerning the cutting of the bushing, what about the chips produced during this process? How would you remove them?
I say let Mr. Goodshaft pull the transmission, then send it back to Keisler. Let them disassemble the very trans they put together. Maybe they will not need to disassemble it, rather have a tool that would extract the bushing and a magnet to pull out the broken tool. The only issue with trying to remove/replace the bushing, it is probably a fit application. Which means once the bronze bushing is pressed in it will then need to be reamed to the proper inside diameter due to distortion from the press fit. I have replaced a ton of bronze bushings at work and thats what we have to do to get a good fitment. Prolly a good thing the tool didnt allow you to extract the bushing and void your warranty.
Concerning the cutting of the bushing, what about the chips produced during this process? How would you remove them?
I say let Mr. Goodshaft pull the transmission, then send it back to Keisler. Let them disassemble the very trans they put together. Maybe they will not need to disassemble it, rather have a tool that would extract the bushing and a magnet to pull out the broken tool. The only issue with trying to remove/replace the bushing, it is probably a fit application. Which means once the bronze bushing is pressed in it will then need to be reamed to the proper inside diameter due to distortion from the press fit. I have replaced a ton of bronze bushings at work and thats what we have to do to get a good fitment. Prolly a good thing the tool didnt allow you to extract the bushing and void your warranty.
