My 67 Camaro Build/Photos
08-11-2011, 09:13 PM
#121
Launching!
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Arizona
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tsnow678
Which means once the bronze bushing is pressed in it will then need to be reamed to the proper inside diameter due to distortion from the press fit.
Which means once the bronze bushing is pressed in it will then need to be reamed to the proper inside diameter due to distortion from the press fit.
i agree, might be better to let keisler change it. costs more in freight, then again you might make them feel guilty and do the work and ship it back for free. Don't feel bad if you have to cry, whine and beg. we won't tell no-one.
08-11-2011, 09:58 PM
#122
Mr. Goodshaft indeed!
Concerning the cutting of the bushing, what about the chips produced during this process? How would you remove them?
I say let Mr. Goodshaft pull the transmission, then send it back to Keisler. Let them disassemble the very trans they put together. Maybe they will not need to disassemble it, rather have a tool that would extract the bushing and a magnet to pull out the broken tool. The only issue with trying to remove/replace the bushing, it is probably a fit application. Which means once the bronze bushing is pressed in it will then need to be reamed to the proper inside diameter due to distortion from the press fit. I have replaced a ton of bronze bushings at work and thats what we have to do to get a good fitment. Prolly a good thing the tool didnt allow you to extract the bushing and void your warranty.
Concerning the cutting of the bushing, what about the chips produced during this process? How would you remove them?
I say let Mr. Goodshaft pull the transmission, then send it back to Keisler. Let them disassemble the very trans they put together. Maybe they will not need to disassemble it, rather have a tool that would extract the bushing and a magnet to pull out the broken tool. The only issue with trying to remove/replace the bushing, it is probably a fit application. Which means once the bronze bushing is pressed in it will then need to be reamed to the proper inside diameter due to distortion from the press fit. I have replaced a ton of bronze bushings at work and thats what we have to do to get a good fitment. Prolly a good thing the tool didnt allow you to extract the bushing and void your warranty.
We're on the same wavelength.
All of these things are running through my mind....the reaming, the distortion issue, etc.
The broken piece in the tailshaft is aluminum....and crappy aluminum at that.
The part that is broken is on the right in the lower photo (before the tool broke).
Once the bushing was cut, I believe that there would be enough clearance to fish out the piece with a wire hook.
tsnow..."Concerning the cutting of the bushing, what about the chips produced during this process? How would you remove them?"
gMAG...Some grease on the blade could minimize the flakes.
As the car was being pulled up the flatbed, trans fluid ran down the bed. In my haste, I had forgotten to plug the tail.
I had the idea that once the bushing was cut, that I could raise the front of the car to flush out any remaining crud in the tail. Syncromesh fluid is expensive!
Don't mind my hair-brained ideas, I'm improvising at the moment.
I'm going over to the tranny shop in the AM to check out what's happening so far.
Depending upon the 'mood' tommorrow, I may just do what you & ls68firebird are recommending.
Every nut, bolt, & nuance of this car has gone the same way. It's strengthened my resolve, in between some choice words! lol
Last edited by gMAG; 08-18-2011 at 11:54 PM.
08-19-2011, 12:38 AM
#125
Update...As prev mentioned, I was unable to reinsert the driveshaft yoke after a mishap with a broken seal spring.
Today, the trans shop returned the car after they had replaced the tailshaft bushing. It's a long story which started as a simple fix, then morphed into a situation in which I needed help.
I'm grateful that the cost was several hundred dollars, and not $800-$1200, or more.
Stuff to be addressed...The car now bucks a bit in 1st and 2nd at low throttle. Seems to be a clutch thing. I think that the hydraulics need to be bled some more. The good part is that the TKO600 has an easily accessable hydraulic hose port.
I've noticed that the driveshaft at the rear end has too much downward angle.
There isn't much tunnel room to be shimming the trans support, but it's important to at least measure the angle, then do what can be done to minimize the deflection. From several hundred miles of driving, there hasn't been any noticable vibration.
The gas line leaks a wee bit at the fuel press gauge. A search suggests that good old teflon tape is a sure thing.
Here's something that was completely unexpected, and is a pleasant surprise.
Inspection of the catch can and TB shows zero/no oil deposits, nor any evidence of oil. In addition to the can, we have the valley cover breather upgrade.
Some thoughts on the TKO600...While this is a beefed up unit with shifting mods, I find the shifting action, vague. For example, you're in 5th, and you'd like to quickly transition to 4th. I have trouble discerning between 2nd and 4th. I've heard of problems shifting from 2nd to 3rd, but haven't experienced the same. Recently, Keisler has addressed this 'clunky' shift action (too late for me, of course!), and also added syncro to reverse.
No matter, it turns out that Liberty trans will modify your shift guide plate, to create smooth, almost effortless shifts. Or, so they say!
The steering components are all brand new with poly bushings. The steering box was upgraded to a close ratio, but there's still some slop. The IROC box upgrade with new pitman seems to be the way to go.
Now, at last, the headliner can be installed. Then, finish up the interior.
Today, the trans shop returned the car after they had replaced the tailshaft bushing. It's a long story which started as a simple fix, then morphed into a situation in which I needed help.
I'm grateful that the cost was several hundred dollars, and not $800-$1200, or more.
Stuff to be addressed...The car now bucks a bit in 1st and 2nd at low throttle. Seems to be a clutch thing. I think that the hydraulics need to be bled some more. The good part is that the TKO600 has an easily accessable hydraulic hose port.
I've noticed that the driveshaft at the rear end has too much downward angle.
There isn't much tunnel room to be shimming the trans support, but it's important to at least measure the angle, then do what can be done to minimize the deflection. From several hundred miles of driving, there hasn't been any noticable vibration.
The gas line leaks a wee bit at the fuel press gauge. A search suggests that good old teflon tape is a sure thing.
Here's something that was completely unexpected, and is a pleasant surprise.
Inspection of the catch can and TB shows zero/no oil deposits, nor any evidence of oil. In addition to the can, we have the valley cover breather upgrade.
Some thoughts on the TKO600...While this is a beefed up unit with shifting mods, I find the shifting action, vague. For example, you're in 5th, and you'd like to quickly transition to 4th. I have trouble discerning between 2nd and 4th. I've heard of problems shifting from 2nd to 3rd, but haven't experienced the same. Recently, Keisler has addressed this 'clunky' shift action (too late for me, of course!), and also added syncro to reverse.
No matter, it turns out that Liberty trans will modify your shift guide plate, to create smooth, almost effortless shifts. Or, so they say!
The steering components are all brand new with poly bushings. The steering box was upgraded to a close ratio, but there's still some slop. The IROC box upgrade with new pitman seems to be the way to go.
Now, at last, the headliner can be installed. Then, finish up the interior.
Last edited by gMAG; 08-19-2011 at 12:48 AM.
08-19-2011, 04:15 AM
#126
Update...As prev mentioned, I was unable to reinsert the driveshaft yoke after a mishap with a broken seal spring.
Today, the trans shop returned the car after they had replaced the tailshaft bushing. It's a long story which started as a simple fix, then morphed into a situation in which I needed help.
I'm grateful that the cost was several hundred dollars, and not $800-$1200, or more.
Stuff to be addressed...The car now bucks a bit in 1st and 2nd at low throttle. Seems to be a clutch thing. I think that the hydraulics need to be bled some more. The good part is that the TKO600 has an easily accessable hydraulic hose port.
I've noticed that the driveshaft at the rear end has too much downward angle.
There isn't much tunnel room to be shimming the trans support, but it's important to at least measure the angle, then do what can be done to minimize the deflection. From several hundred miles of driving, there hasn't been any noticable vibration.
The gas line leaks a wee bit at the fuel press gauge. A search suggests that good old teflon tape is a sure thing.
Here's something that was completely unexpected, and is a pleasant surprise.
Inspection of the catch can and TB shows zero/no oil deposits, nor any evidence of oil. In addition to the can, we have the valley cover breather upgrade.
Some thoughts on the TKO600...While this is a beefed up unit with shifting mods, I find the shifting action, vague. For example, you're in 5th, and you'd like to quickly transition to 4th. I have trouble discerning between 2nd and 4th. I've heard of problems shifting from 2nd to 3rd, but haven't experienced the same. Recently, Keisler has addressed this 'clunky' shift action (too late for me, of course!), and also added syncro to reverse.
No matter, it turns out that Liberty trans will modify your shift guide plate, to create smooth, almost effortless shifts. Or, so they say!
The steering components are all brand new with poly bushings. The steering box was upgraded to a close ratio, but there's still some slop. The IROC box upgrade with new pitman seems to be the way to go.
Now, at last, the headliner can be installed. Then, finish up the interior.
Today, the trans shop returned the car after they had replaced the tailshaft bushing. It's a long story which started as a simple fix, then morphed into a situation in which I needed help.
I'm grateful that the cost was several hundred dollars, and not $800-$1200, or more.
Stuff to be addressed...The car now bucks a bit in 1st and 2nd at low throttle. Seems to be a clutch thing. I think that the hydraulics need to be bled some more. The good part is that the TKO600 has an easily accessable hydraulic hose port.
I've noticed that the driveshaft at the rear end has too much downward angle.
There isn't much tunnel room to be shimming the trans support, but it's important to at least measure the angle, then do what can be done to minimize the deflection. From several hundred miles of driving, there hasn't been any noticable vibration.
The gas line leaks a wee bit at the fuel press gauge. A search suggests that good old teflon tape is a sure thing.
Here's something that was completely unexpected, and is a pleasant surprise.
Inspection of the catch can and TB shows zero/no oil deposits, nor any evidence of oil. In addition to the can, we have the valley cover breather upgrade.
Some thoughts on the TKO600...While this is a beefed up unit with shifting mods, I find the shifting action, vague. For example, you're in 5th, and you'd like to quickly transition to 4th. I have trouble discerning between 2nd and 4th. I've heard of problems shifting from 2nd to 3rd, but haven't experienced the same. Recently, Keisler has addressed this 'clunky' shift action (too late for me, of course!), and also added syncro to reverse.
No matter, it turns out that Liberty trans will modify your shift guide plate, to create smooth, almost effortless shifts. Or, so they say!
The steering components are all brand new with poly bushings. The steering box was upgraded to a close ratio, but there's still some slop. The IROC box upgrade with new pitman seems to be the way to go.
Now, at last, the headliner can be installed. Then, finish up the interior.
Are you running the LS1 Camaro clutch master? If so take the rubber bumper off where the pedal contacts the bracket under the dash when it is at rest. I could not bleed mine out right because the piston wasnt coming back far enough to let in fluid from the reservoir.
The pinion angle should be a negative 5 degrees (pointing towards the ground)
Take the fuel gage off- no more leaks.
Thats awesome on the PCV system, great job!
Go ahead and buy the rack and pinion- no more slop!! Let me know how it works out so maybe I can buy one later.
Glad your back on the road and enjoying the fruits of your labor.
08-19-2011, 07:24 PM
#128
Stan & tsnow,
Yeah, I believe that the steering play is all in the box.
It was pretty bad when combined with a poor FE alignment. You couldn't take your eyes off of the road, even for a second, or else end up in a gulley!
tsnow, I wish I could afford the rack. Maybe some good hearted souls out there will take up a collection for me! lol.
Yeah, I believe that the steering play is all in the box.
It was pretty bad when combined with a poor FE alignment. You couldn't take your eyes off of the road, even for a second, or else end up in a gulley!
tsnow, I wish I could afford the rack. Maybe some good hearted souls out there will take up a collection for me! lol.
08-19-2011, 10:56 PM
#130
I think the rack could be done within reason if the proper brackets are fabbed by ourselves. Just a matter of flipping the tie rod ends left to right making it a front steer. Now if we measure the distance we could pick a suitable rack for this whole process. HHHHmmmmmm!!! Got me thinking now. I am a manual steering kind of guy and dont really care for power anything. I like to feel the road. The only time I ever notice my car is not power steering is when I park it. But since I have a limited slip diff and not my old spool, parking is easy.
08-20-2011, 11:12 PM
#132
One more thought on the TKO600 tailshaft bushing.
OK, several more thoughts...
Because Keisler tech support wasn't exactly sure what the correct part # is for the tailshaft bushing, this set in motion a search for the correct part online. A T56 yoke is 1 1/2" diam. The TKO is 1 5/8".
I found a place in TX, and purchased 2 of the 1 5/8" bushing. The box which arrived contained a brass lined one, and also, one that was lined in a silver material. The bushing in the tailhousing had the silver-lined one.
The fellow who worked on the TKO for me mentioned that he didn't use my bushings bec they are inferior parts, made in China. This prob explains why neither he nor I was able to remove the bushing while the trans was still in the car. In fact, the orig bushing was so tight that it broke my tool (see pics above).
In attempting to get a refund for this tool, I got into a ruckus on the phone with a man from A to Z Tools. After a rep originally confirmed that the refund would be given, he decided to refuse the refund & blamed the broken tool on me. I tried to convince him that the metal which broke (in 2 different places) is the cheapest pot metal that one can imagine.
Things got heated when he accused me of banging on the tool. It never happened. This was a $128 lesson.
Maybe it was a combo of a super-tight bushing, combined with A to Z's super-deficient tool (made in USA!).
Meanwhile...the fellow at the trans shop removed the trans, forced out the old bushing, then replaced it with a true teflon-lined bushing.
I'm happy I went to that trans shop. They did good by me!
Final thought...took her for a ride today. Because the clutch is still being broken in, we didn't slam gears, but this car roars. Entering the highway on our favorite ramp, we charged from 20>100 in no time. Very impressive, this LS1.
OK, several more thoughts...
Because Keisler tech support wasn't exactly sure what the correct part # is for the tailshaft bushing, this set in motion a search for the correct part online. A T56 yoke is 1 1/2" diam. The TKO is 1 5/8".
I found a place in TX, and purchased 2 of the 1 5/8" bushing. The box which arrived contained a brass lined one, and also, one that was lined in a silver material. The bushing in the tailhousing had the silver-lined one.
The fellow who worked on the TKO for me mentioned that he didn't use my bushings bec they are inferior parts, made in China. This prob explains why neither he nor I was able to remove the bushing while the trans was still in the car. In fact, the orig bushing was so tight that it broke my tool (see pics above).
In attempting to get a refund for this tool, I got into a ruckus on the phone with a man from A to Z Tools. After a rep originally confirmed that the refund would be given, he decided to refuse the refund & blamed the broken tool on me. I tried to convince him that the metal which broke (in 2 different places) is the cheapest pot metal that one can imagine.
Things got heated when he accused me of banging on the tool. It never happened. This was a $128 lesson.
Maybe it was a combo of a super-tight bushing, combined with A to Z's super-deficient tool (made in USA!).
Meanwhile...the fellow at the trans shop removed the trans, forced out the old bushing, then replaced it with a true teflon-lined bushing.
I'm happy I went to that trans shop. They did good by me!
Final thought...took her for a ride today. Because the clutch is still being broken in, we didn't slam gears, but this car roars. Entering the highway on our favorite ramp, we charged from 20>100 in no time. Very impressive, this LS1.
Last edited by gMAG; 08-20-2011 at 11:22 PM.
08-21-2011, 10:43 AM
#133
Glad to hear your back on the road.
Remind me never to use AtoZ tools if thats the way they are going to treat their customers. They could have at least offered a replacement tool in exchange for the old one. I have a feeling the tool wasnt manufactured in the USA but rather assembled in the USA. There is alot of that going on here the great nation of the USA.
Now for a vid of you rolling and smoking them tires!!!!
Remind me never to use AtoZ tools if thats the way they are going to treat their customers. They could have at least offered a replacement tool in exchange for the old one. I have a feeling the tool wasnt manufactured in the USA but rather assembled in the USA. There is alot of that going on here the great nation of the USA.
Now for a vid of you rolling and smoking them tires!!!!
08-21-2011, 03:41 PM
#134
Glad to hear your back on the road.
Remind me never to use AtoZ tools if thats the way they are going to treat their customers. They could have at least offered a replacement tool in exchange for the old one. I have a feeling the tool wasnt manufactured in the USA but rather assembled in the USA. There is alot of that going on here the great nation of the USA.
Now for a vid of you rolling and smoking them tires!!!!
Remind me never to use AtoZ tools if thats the way they are going to treat their customers. They could have at least offered a replacement tool in exchange for the old one. I have a feeling the tool wasnt manufactured in the USA but rather assembled in the USA. There is alot of that going on here the great nation of the USA.
Now for a vid of you rolling and smoking them tires!!!!
Well, that'll be coming soon.
The policy @ A to Z clearly states that they will replace the tool or fix it. I can't really argue with that. The secretary @ A to Z Tools promised me a refund when I called & explained that a piece of the tool had lodged itself inside the tailshaft, and that I had no intention of accepting a replacement and having the same thing happen again. She even left the phone, briefly, to seek out someone who ok'd the refund. After I returned the tool for a 'refund', the secretary called me to say that she was chewed out for changing policy.
The guy that argued with me decided to create an excuse just so the company's policy of 'no refunds' would be adhered to. He claimed that the tool broke because I beat on it. I dislike being called a liar.
After over 400 LS1 related emails, transactions, phone calls, this is the very first time something like this has happened. I consider myself fortunate after reading some of the incidents which have happened to others.
11-25-2011, 10:21 AM
#136
Hey everyone!
It is about time that the thread was updated. It's been awhile.
This here car has had me running in circles.
To recap, the tranny had been repaired @ a shop, and now that the clutch has been broken in, the LS1 has been put through its' paces. This engine is very impressive.
I was about to line up a tune with Slowhawk, when low oil pressure reared its' head. Lately, there's been the smell of gas in the oil, & I've noticed fuel pressure declining too fast after the engine is turned off.
At the same time, oil pressure declined from 28 hot, to 6, then 4, then zero.
I pulled over & turned it off. After a few minutes, the engine was started, pressure went back to 20+ lbs. The oil & filter was changed, then pressure was back to 'normal'.
On the next run, pressure declined in the same manner, & I parked the car in the garage. Inspecting the oil filter, there are glitter sized metal pieces. The fresh oil is muddy after just one run. In addition, that ported-blueprinted oil pump might be defective. Come to think of it, I don't think that it ever worked correctly. Pressure has always been lower than I think it should have been. Since there is glitter in the emptied oil, too, this makes me think that the pressure valve in the pump has been malfunctioning. This could also be in conjunction with a defective bearing.
Now that winter is approaching, I believe that I'll pull the engine, buy a rebuild kit, & hope that the crank isn't damaged.
I don't mind working on this car. It's just that I thought it could be enjoyed first, before it became 'used'.
It is about time that the thread was updated. It's been awhile.
This here car has had me running in circles.
To recap, the tranny had been repaired @ a shop, and now that the clutch has been broken in, the LS1 has been put through its' paces. This engine is very impressive.
I was about to line up a tune with Slowhawk, when low oil pressure reared its' head. Lately, there's been the smell of gas in the oil, & I've noticed fuel pressure declining too fast after the engine is turned off.
At the same time, oil pressure declined from 28 hot, to 6, then 4, then zero.
I pulled over & turned it off. After a few minutes, the engine was started, pressure went back to 20+ lbs. The oil & filter was changed, then pressure was back to 'normal'.
On the next run, pressure declined in the same manner, & I parked the car in the garage. Inspecting the oil filter, there are glitter sized metal pieces. The fresh oil is muddy after just one run. In addition, that ported-blueprinted oil pump might be defective. Come to think of it, I don't think that it ever worked correctly. Pressure has always been lower than I think it should have been. Since there is glitter in the emptied oil, too, this makes me think that the pressure valve in the pump has been malfunctioning. This could also be in conjunction with a defective bearing.
Now that winter is approaching, I believe that I'll pull the engine, buy a rebuild kit, & hope that the crank isn't damaged.
I don't mind working on this car. It's just that I thought it could be enjoyed first, before it became 'used'.
11-25-2011, 11:28 AM
#137
I feel your pain. I pulled the motor several months ago but it was just too hot here to work in the garage so I didn't touh of for a few months. I now have the crank back from bein polished (didn't need turned thankfully) I have the bearings and gaskets I need and since it's already aprt I'm going to go ahead and put another oil pump in it. So I hope to have it back together pretty quick but we all now how that goes. With all the troubles I had at first I was hoping to get more then a couple months out of it before I had to pull it apart but I only got about 3 months out of it
This time around I plan not to "play" as much or as hard as I did before
This time around I plan not to "play" as much or as hard as I did before
12-22-2011, 07:51 PM
#138
Hey race fans!
Happy Holidays/Merry Christmas/Happy Chanukah, to everyone.
When I last posted on 11/25, the car exibited low oil pressure/no oil pressure. After examining the filter, specks of white metal/bearing babbit was found.
Next came the question, was oil pressure lost, and then the bearing went?
Or, was a bearing defective, which contributed to low pressure, and then loss of more bearing material? Hoping for a partial solution, the oil pump was changed. Afterward, the motor was cranked to build pressure, but there was zero pressure.
Looking back, pressure never behaved in a manner consistant with others on this site. For example, upon acceleration, there was hardly any increase in pressure. Hot idle & cold idle were somewhat low, at 40 cold, and 24 hot.
In any event, the motor must be pulled, inspected, and repairs made.
The accessories have been disconnected, and I'm looking forward to rebuilding the motor in my refrigerator-like garage.
At the same time, I find that the shifter action of the Keisler tranny is 'clunky' and inexact. I have read that the guide plate can be machined to enable smoother, more accurate shifts.
If anyone reading this can recommend someone who can machine the plate, that would be appreciated. I understand that a company called Liberty Transmissions does this as well.
This Christmas eve, my brothers will be over, and will help to remove the hood, so that I can proceed with the engine removal. My eldest brother Rob keeps taunting me about how cold it will be out there! Touche'!
Happy Holidays/Merry Christmas/Happy Chanukah, to everyone.
When I last posted on 11/25, the car exibited low oil pressure/no oil pressure. After examining the filter, specks of white metal/bearing babbit was found.
Next came the question, was oil pressure lost, and then the bearing went?
Or, was a bearing defective, which contributed to low pressure, and then loss of more bearing material? Hoping for a partial solution, the oil pump was changed. Afterward, the motor was cranked to build pressure, but there was zero pressure.
Looking back, pressure never behaved in a manner consistant with others on this site. For example, upon acceleration, there was hardly any increase in pressure. Hot idle & cold idle were somewhat low, at 40 cold, and 24 hot.
In any event, the motor must be pulled, inspected, and repairs made.
The accessories have been disconnected, and I'm looking forward to rebuilding the motor in my refrigerator-like garage.
At the same time, I find that the shifter action of the Keisler tranny is 'clunky' and inexact. I have read that the guide plate can be machined to enable smoother, more accurate shifts.
If anyone reading this can recommend someone who can machine the plate, that would be appreciated. I understand that a company called Liberty Transmissions does this as well.
This Christmas eve, my brothers will be over, and will help to remove the hood, so that I can proceed with the engine removal. My eldest brother Rob keeps taunting me about how cold it will be out there! Touche'!
12-22-2011, 08:47 PM
#139
Best of luck to you and I hope you have a Merry Christmas!!! Dont feel alone as I will have to pull my engine out as well. It seems my combo has landed me with low vacuum at idle and makes it untunable at this point. I am having a 408 shortblock assembled while I post. This really stinks as I have alot of time in my car as I am sure you do as well. Hopefully after the New year we will be back on track.
