bmf5150

I bought white PVC and used spray paint,turned out great

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

It sure does!

Unless they have quit carrying the black pipe our Lowes had a whole section of it with the matching fittings, couplers, rubber adapters etc. I opted for a short piece of the 4". I think it is cheaper by the foot to buy a long piece but a short piece is prolly all I ever need in my life span. Good luck finding it, if you cant find it let me know and I will go by and get the item numbers so maybe they can order some for ya.

Steve68

iTrader: (23)

Congrats, I'll go back to hiding now!

crosstraining

iTrader: (1)

I went to 7 different stores including 2 Lowe's, and no one here carries it. Can you post the sizes & type you got? I have found some places I think I can order from online.
Thanks

ratbeachracing

I just read all 49 pages, this was the best therapy I've had since I started my build. At the end when the valve train noise came up I was right there and still am. Wasn't sure if it was too loud or not. I have reworked my harness at least three times, now Im thinking of putting the computer in the same spot by the battery. Shoot I have the same bracket from Ironworks.

Great write up and car!!!!

69 bird LQ9, with cam and heads

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the kind words! You too have an awesome car. Love the '69Firebirds! Do you have a build thread on LS1Tech? I see you have the catch can already installed. Do you have any information of where you bought it and what brand it is? Any pics you wouldnt mind sharing of the car, catch can, etc.???

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Sorry for the delay on the Vintage Air installation! I have had to work late, dr. appts, kids, etc etc.... I did manage to install the Kwik Bracket, A/C compressor, and put the new belt on other than that it has sat with nothing done.

OldCobraGuy

iTrader: (2)

I think there is so much confusion regarding valve train noise it isn't funny. Everybody has an opinion...none are 100% right or wrong. But here is what I discovered. Late LS1 block (LS6) with 243 heads, 54-456-11 Comp cam, 918 Comp springs, .050 GM gaskets, stock rockers, top hat seals. This is a fairly mild cam, but has a somewhat radical lobe with over .600 lift. With the springs installed to just under 1.800 installed height, and 135 lbs on the seat, and 7.400 pushrods, this had between .090 and .100 lifter preload. Geometry was acceptable. Now, to me, this is WAY to deep in the lifter...but there are a lot of well respected builders out there and on this site who said I was just fine...that this engine likes them that deep. There are a lot of Stock Eliminator boys who are forced to run hydraulic lifters who run them just off the bottom of the lifter, but noise and driveability are not a concern...performance only. They do it to simulate a solid lifter's characteristics. Not the case here and I always felt this was wrong. Sure enough, this thing was noisy as hell. When my tuner heard it, he thought it was normal for a cammed LSx. I hated it. I know the cam lobe and other factors combine to make this noisy, but I still thought it could be better. So I went back and remeasured everything and I ordered a set of 7.350 pushrods and changed my lifter preload to around .045 on all lifters. The difference was dramatic. My tuner couldn't believe the difference when he heard it. It's almost as quiet as stock. I may even try a set of 7.325 pushrods just to see...but I may have geometry issues if I go that short. Moral of the story...don't be afraid to play with your valvetrain. You may come up with some very interesting findings.

ratbeachracing

The catchcan is a AMW, it came with my motor. (They are pricey)I bought my motor and all the electrical together it was from a 2003or 2004 escalade. The motor was going into a roadrace camaro before I bought it. I then had Speartech get my harness and computer dailed in to work for my needs. In the end I changed my harness a few times did alot of cutting and soldering.

I don't have a build thread but I do have radom pic's I'll post.

In the process of changing my intake again and putting the battery in the trunk.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

I cannot remember the length of pushrod I went with but I may go back and play around with lengths or either buy some adjustable rockers. I am leaning towards the adjustable rockers and then if the geometry is suitable I can preload the lifter to the desire amount instantly. The one thing we do on our circle track car that is forced to run the ZZ4 with hydraulic roller lifters is to run the rocker down till the pushrod barely moves the plunger in the lifter and leave it. You have to run guide plates to accomplish this. The purpose is to eliminate pump up and cause valve float. The extra 100 or so of rpms helps out on a circle track but not sure if that theory would work out on the street as the rpm range is alot wider. Appreciate the information!

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

One of the baddest 69 Firebirds I have seen! AMW is a name I have heard of several times all with good reviews. I will purchase one in the next few weeks. Is there a reason you want to move the battery to the trunk? Look at BMF150 build if you move the battery as he did a helluva job mounting his PCM on top of the battery tray, if your worried about the acid from your existing battery have you seen the AGM batteries? Oreillys Auto has them in stock and no more worries of acid corroding anything.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Here is the compressor installed with the kwik bracket. I would break down the installation but its pretty straight forward with the instructions.

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I ended up using a shorter belt than what Kwik recommended. They called for a 101 1/8" I ended up with a 96 5/8" belt with my FEAD configuration.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Just when you thought you had the dash ripped apart Vintage Air says you havent seen **** yet!

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tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Here are the controls, defrost ducts, side vents etc. etc... You have to remove all of it. Not only remove it but you will have to modify the existing components still attached.

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tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

The drivers side vent needs 9" cut off of it and then you have to install 3 s-clips and put on the adapter.

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tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

This is after I cut it and installed the adapter.

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tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

This piece is a royal pain in the *** to install. I had way too many beers at this point to get this by myself. I called the neighbor but he didnt answer so I asked the wifey to help and that was a disaster. Finally the neighbor came over and we got it in. You will definately need help getting this block off plate in.

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tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Here is the blower motor block off plate installed.

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tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Thats it for the night! I figured I could get about half way done tonight but seems as if I am only a third of the way of completion. It will take some time to finish but it beats the hell out of a $1000 to have the restoration shop do it for me. Dont expect to be finished in one night unless you are just that good. I am not that good so it will take me a while. Bear with me and it will get finished.

OldCobraGuy

iTrader: (2)

That compressor and bracket is so clean an installation, I'm thinking of getting rid of that POS V7 and converting to this! Man that looks nice.

Cutting up vintage '69 hardware like that had to about give you heartburn didn't it? It's not like you can run down to the local O'Reilly's and but new stuff...