thanks!!i hope that tank works out with no issues,its the wright price!!i hope to start re assembly of my ls1 this weekend!

 

asianredneck= I bought the tank and assembly new from Rock Auto. It is designed to fit a 69 Camaro.

BMF= Best of luck on the reassembly. Dont forget the barbell in the back or the plug in the front.

 

Whatcha gonna use for tranny support?

 

thanks!just bought a book on these engines,because i dont know much about them!

 

Kevmac= I bought a Trans-Dapt model number #6539 which is a universal crossmember that is adjustable from 26"-36" wide. It has a three inch drop and uses a Trans-Dapt pad model number #9442 of which I do not own yet.


BMF= If you know anything about Gen1 SBC engines you wont have any trouble with the LS. The only thing I do not like about the LS engines are those piece of **** bolts you cannot reuse. I bought new GM main cap bolts all 30 of them. $88 for the set with a discount. I also replaced the weak rod bolts with ARP bolts. The crank pulley bolt was replaced with an ARP as well. I did buy Fel Pro head bolts for two reasons 1) they were cheaper than the GM's and 2) they make them for GM. All other bolts were reused that could be reused. Was gonna stud this thing out but with the cost reaching the sky already I chose to go with stock bolts. If I decide to build another engine it will be for forced induction and the need for the extra holding power will require the studs. N/A engines should need no more than what I have. I figure this engine will turn at best 6500-6800 rpms. If you consider that the 327 that came out of this car turned 7,200 with a cast crank and 2 bolt mains I should be ok with six bolt mains, less rpm's, PM rods, less rod angulation, and a nodular crank. I know people will disagree but the 327 was 17 years old and had the **** turned out of it. Of course it was professionally balanced other than that it was pretty much a stock reciprocating assembly.

 

Leakingtap wanted to know what my total build to date has come to. I am hesitant to find out. But I will try to remember off of the top of my head the best I can without rounding up receipts. Here goes:
Lq4 engine, wiring harness as a whole= $900
Cam regrind= $150
Adapter fittings for oil and water= $25
Camshaft retainer plate and bolts= $22
Thermostat adapter= $70
Frt. oil galley plug= $5
Melling H/V oil pump= $119
Energy Suspension mounts= $75
coils and coil bracket stainless bolts with washers and lock washers= $25
Cam, main and rod bearings= $155
ARP crank bolt= $33
Swaptech adapter plates= $100
Piston rings= $76
ARP flywheel and pressure plate bolts= $62
LS2 timing chain= $47
Transmission crossmember= $80
ARP stainless water pump bolts= $37
LS3 intake with injectors, rails, gaskets, bolts and vent pipes= $280
96mm PP throttle body = $230
Spectra FI gas tank= $315
98-03 corvette fuel filter/regulator= $35
L92 heads complete= $874
8 offset rockers and stands= $97
Patriot extreme springs with titanium retainers= $255
GM head gaskets MLS= $60
ARP rod bolts= $85
Gasket set= $155
05 GTO water pump= $135
Moroso oil pan and pickup= $450
Dynatech ceramic coated headers= $415
Valve cover gaskets and grommets= $25
08 corvette alt. bracket, idler pulley, and tensioner= $200
IAC sensor= $35
Knock sensor grommets and lifter guides= $35
Barbell for rear oil control= $8
Main cap bolt set all 30 bolts= $88
Wiring harness service including parts labor and a flash= $502
T56 six speed tranny with bellhousing= $1200
Hurst shifter= $100
7.450" .083 wall one piece push rods= $110
As far as I can recall this is where I am at right now with a total build cost to date= $7670

I knew not to figure this out! I still need a flywheel, clutch, master cylinder, slave cylinder, remote bleeder, trans mount, driveshaft, axles, fuel lines and fittings, radiator, fans, vintage air, intake tubing, hoses, belts, wires, battery relocation kit, line lock, wilwood brake master cylinder, exhaust work, and I am sure a **** load of other stuff. I hope this engine is all it is supposed to be. **** I could have just bought a big block crate and been done. But with the power, reliability, and fuel mileage it will surely pay off in the next 100,000 miles maybe. Ahhh quit my bitching its only money and as long as I wake up and can stand vertical theres plenty to be made. If I didnt spend it on my car in which I love, I would be buying B/S for the house, wife, kids, dogs, and whatever comes along. With some wheeling and dealing and plenty of overtime its all paid for and isnt going anywhere hopefully for a long time. I already have plans to build another short block maybe over next winter with the ring of 427 ci stroker bullet proof assembly. We'll see how this one turns out first. Hope this didnt discourage any of you wanting to start this project for yourself. Just remember to take it slow and get what you need the first time. I have been fortunate to have LS1Tech to do a little homework with. Its people on here that have kept me going and overcome most obstacles. A big Thanks to everyone here that has helped me. Oh yeah all this money spent and still have not set this engine in the car. Gearhead for life!

 

**** I think I felt a little tear trickle out! LMAO

 

I do have a set of #317 heads for sale that came off of the LQ4. They include 8 rockers, 2 stands, two heads complete, and I will even throw in the stock L92 springs, retainers, keepers, and valve seals of which are all new with 0 miles on the L92 stuff. The heads are clean and all gasket surfaces seem to be without defect. They had 98,000 miles on them which isnt too bad for these. There are no broken bolts to worry with and no stripped threads. I will take $150 for the complete package plus shipping.

 

I have avoided adding it all up. I am sure I would do more than trickle.

 

Sorry for my absence I have been in a jam. The jam I have been in is and was clearance between my oil pan and the crossmember. I have recently found out that this Moroso # 20141 pan is not exactly a simple swap fit. The older style pan #20140 was flat from the front to the sump but this #20141 is sloped allowing the use of a full windage tray. I wanted the ability to use the full length windage tray. So here we go! I started to fish around on
LS1Tech after doing some preliminary measuring. I found out right quick that even with my thicker (3/8") adapters and tall stands this pan was not going to work without some modifications. I didn't want to space the mounts on the adapters, nor did I want to shim up my stands for fear the added height would cause interference in another location such as the bellhousing to the tunnel or the headers to the floor pans. I needed to go up approximately 5/8" to acheive the needed clearance. I did find a guy on here that cut the crossmember in the center and rewelded it back for the clearance. Well I have fought this all week and finally today I said F'it. I made the necessary measurements once more and scribe me a line at the desired cut. I decided against the zip wheel, didnt have room to get a saw in there so, I broke out the crudest tool I own my handy dandy torch. Seemed like a good idea at first. After putting out a thousand flames from all of the oil that had seeped its way into the crossmember over the past 42 years I got it done. But not without a fight. I did try to flip the adapters over so as to run the mounts offset to give a taller stance. I measured and I measured but only managed to gain a 1/4" at best by doing this. So scratch that lets keep this engine low and work with what I have available.

This is right side up.

[IMG][/IMG]

This is with the adapters reversed and upside down.

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This is the torched section of the crossmember that will be plated with thicker metal and reinforced. I was surprised at how thin the original metal was.

[IMG][/IMG]

 

Heres a shot of the T56 that is going in the swap. Is there anything other than cleaning it up that needs to be done prior to installing this transmission. It came out of a running, driving car so there is no mechanical issues at this point.


[IMG][/IMG]

 

Good call on getting one out of a running and driving car. My T56 came with a brand new aftermarket housing which I couldn't get the starter to line up. Had to remove a little material, but she went in. I couldn't tell when I bought it separately and too costly to have it returned.

Did you pick up an offset shifter so the console does not interfere?
By shifting the stock console slightly to the right, mine worked out fine without the added expense. By the way, I went with the same shifter, cool

https://ls1tech.com/forums/chevrolet...camaro-swap.html

 

i1aroc= I havent decided on the offset shifter yet. I need to actually get this assembly in the car and then see where it is located before hand. I bought the one that is on it with the transmission for $100. It was 2 months old. Since I am not using a console just the factory style chrome ring and boot I can punch a new hole if needed. I may end up buying another new piece of front carpet and sell the other. Glad you got the starter to work. I just wish these companies spent a little more time in R&D and hired a good quality department. I work in a machine shop and are held to tolerances to .002"
-.006" on every aspect of my work. We have quality procedures in place to avoid misfits and bad parts. To give you an example of what I am saying: Lets say the manufacturer of the trans run the tolerances on the high of the specand the starter company did the same, there will be interference. We use SPC charts to prevent issues like this. It is really indepth but that is the highlight. Even though both companies kept everything in print they were not worrying about anyhting but to get it out the door. Had they run it around the Median you wouldnt have fought anything and the engineering department did their job. Sorry to drag that out its just my passion. I cannot remember if I am subscribed to your thread. You do have a thread right? If so send me a link to it or give me a title and I will find it.

 

I cleaned out 41 years worth of crap out of the crossmember. I found rocks, stray and some glass intertwined in the greasy goo. All wash up and ready to start grinding and fitting of the new metal. I used 1/4" plate to replace the thin metal that came out. I had a little bit of a time trying mend the different metals together even after cleaning the snot out of it. That and the difference in the thickness of metal made it a pain. But all in all it came out good and penetrated well. Should be at least as strong as the factory made it if not stronger.


[IMG][/IMG]

 

And now to work on the firewall clean up. I am using a DSE firewall plate. Its a weld in piece. I had to modify it a little because it is made to go behind the fender bolt and thats not going to happen hopefully for a long time. I just got the car back from the body shop a couple of years ago and all the body lines are great along with the paint. I used my mig gun to figure out how far I could come over and still be able to weld it. I ended up cutting it 3" short on the passenger side from the bolt hole location. My car was a factory air car and it had a large rectangular hole that needed to be cover. That and all of the screw holes and such that was put in there by myself and the several owners prior. Hopefully once it is done it will have a cleaner appearance. Here is a pic of the firewall prior to the cover up.

[IMG][/IMG]

 

Do you have assembly part number from Rock Auto. I ordered new tank and sending unit with dual lines, but with the walbro 255 it wont fit through the fuel tank hole.

 

Looks great!!

 

Asianredneck= The tank I purchased has the fuel injection assembly already in it. I thought about upgrading the pump while it is out and clean. I doubt you will be able to use an original style tank due to the fact there is no baffling inside.

Bmf= Thank you but its not the best work I have done and I almost didnt post the pic because of that. Its strong and should stand the test of time but its ugly. It will be hidden by LS beauty so it doesnt really matter I guess. After i grind a little and put a coat of semi-gloss black over it it will look ok.

 

I finished welding the firewall block off plate tonight. I will need to grind a little but not much. The seam sealer will hide the majority along with the engine in place you shouldnt really notice it anyways. I wish I had the ***** to remove the fender and do it right but I will settle for the way it is.


[IMG][/IMG]

 

Well first I'll say the notch turned out pretty good. The only thing I would do differently is put a 45 or radius at the two ends rather than a 90 degree cap.

I plan on using a cutoff wheel, but that is subject to the same problem of igniting grease/oil residue collected internally. What did you keep handy for putting out the flames? Water? Wet rag? Once a fire gets going inside of a frame, it's not the easiest thing to put out due to lack of access.