Update:
I have a new (to me) short block. This engine will have a little extra security with a dry sump setup. So far I have ordered a Canton 12-200 pan and a rebuilt Weaver Bros 3 stage pump.

 

Looks good! Thanks for the deal on the heads!

 

Painted the engine bay to prepare for the new engine.

 

what color is that? looks like the same color i painted my truck which is Electric blue or Honda SI blue.

 

Engine and trans are in. Now it is time to wire it back up, and spend an astronomical amount of money on AN lines and fittings to plumb the dry sump.

Dare I say "the first dry sump LS3 IS300 in the USA"?

 

I love the color man. Good job!

 

Thanks! I need to make the outside of the car look good again... That is of course the last thing on the list.

 

Waiting for parts to arrive so we did a little cutting to remove more weight. It was not much savings but hopefully it will start to add up.

 

Stancel,
I'm doing an LS3 manual IS300 and will be about 450-500 rwhp for the street and want to know more about the rear end and driveshafts, Are there other options than shaving the stub shafts, sounds like a lot of fab, is there any bolt in stuff that would be strong enough or is this the best way to go.
Also, who made the headers?

 

Good call on the dry sump. There are a few LS powered drift cars around here.. A few have blown up on one of the courses around here that have angled corners. Of course the import powered drifters go all "ooh LS motors make reliable power? yeah right"

 

Don't let the shaving of the stub shafts detour you. It is a pretty simple task. We just used a cutoff wheel. If you wanted it to be perfect a machine shop would probably charge $20-50 to do it. It is by far the best option. The Supra LSD can be fine-tuned to grab as hard as you want since it is a clutch type LSD. The parts are also readily available. Weir Performance sells everything you need to rebuild or they can even rebuild one for you.

Including the price of a used Supra LSD and rebuild kit it will be around $250-350 which is pretty cheap for a diff that you will probably never break. I have been beating on mine since 2010. This is a way better option than the aftermarket diffs like Kaaz and Cusco that are $1k+.

Again, I like the predictability of a clutch LSD so I would not waste the time of swapping in the LSD that came stock in some IS300s.

I am guessing that the driveshafts you are referring to are the cv shafts. I am running stock shafts but I am about to swap them out for new ones. After years of abuse they have gotten a little bit sloppy but don't change your cv shafts unless they are bad (if it ain't broke don't fix it).

If you were asking about the driveshaft, Mine is a 1 piece steel shaft made by a local driveline shop, nothing special.

The headers were made by a local shop and I would suggest either buying swap specific headers or have them made by a fab shop local to you. There is nothing worse than spending a boat load of money on 1 off parts that don’t work. A local shop is good because you can take it back to them if there is a problem. I know one of the guys on the IS forum makes swap headers but I have never used them.

Let me know if you need more info

Yeah, I was hot lapping my car at a track with a 4th gear sweeping turn. It killed my LS1 so that is why I am going dry sump.

 

Started plumbing the dry sump today.

 

Made some room in the trunk...

 

The LS3 is wired and running. How do I change the title of my thread?

 

Looks good. Edit your first post in this thread, click 'go advanced', should see it as an option at the top

 

Weird, I did that but it only changed the title above my first post not the title of the thread.

 

that looks so good in there!!!!
i'm still gathering parts for mine. i'll be in touch, i have a few questions written down for you, LOL!!

 

Just looked through your build thread. Good work!