Installing Cruise Control w/DBW
#21
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On my 2005 Corvette LS2 transplant into a 71 Chevelle, Jerod at Current Performance did the harness and PCM. The PCM was reflashed to a '05 SSR in order to get the cruise control to work (he said he's done this on many). But I haven't been able to get the Cruise to work. ...
Tipsy
#22
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I did get my cruise control working. I had the clutch pedal switch wired wrong. I was using a standard brake light switch, so the circuit was open when the pedal was not depressed. It should have been closed. I swapped the standard switch with one for cruise control and used the cruise control switch, which is closed when the pedal is at rest.
#23
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I did get my cruise control working. I had the clutch pedal switch wired wrong. I was using a standard brake light switch, so the circuit was open when the pedal was not depressed. It should have been closed. I swapped the standard switch with one for cruise control and used the cruise control switch, which is closed when the pedal is at rest.
Tipsy
#25
Thanks for bumping this ancient thread as it is of interest to me. I got all of the modules with my LH6 pull, even the tailgate control module (for power locks). Mine has the TAC in the PCM so, I will watch for more information.
#26
I did get my cruise control working. I had the clutch pedal switch wired wrong. I was using a standard brake light switch, so the circuit was open when the pedal was not depressed. It should have been closed. I swapped the standard switch with one for cruise control and used the cruise control switch, which is closed when the pedal is at rest.
I have a LS4, and wanted cruise control. I tried pulling on the DBW pedal with an aftermarket cruise control unit, but it did not work very well. With the ECM based cruise control it is super solid.
Hardware changes:
-Re-flashed ECM from LS4 calibration to 2006 SSR Calibration and copy over my LS4 tune.
-Re-pined ECM. I had to shuffle around the pins for the pedal and throttle body, Class 2 data, add an o2 sensor (the LS4 only has 1 bank), and of course add the cruise wiring.
-Added a VSS. Installed in Pins C44 and C45, polarity does not matter. I used a VSS from a S10 as it had threads and a 30tooth reluctor ring on the driveshaft. In HPTuners I set the tooth count to 30, ratio to 1:1 (sensor on wheel hub) and set my revs per mile based on my tire size.
-Changed the timing cover. The LS4 has a unique timing cover that is 180deg off from the LS2/LS3 timing cover. WIthout changing it the car would only fire half the time. Removed the LS4 timing cover and installed a LS2/LS3 timing cover.
-Swapped out the accelerator pedal. Even though my LS4 pedal plugged right in and all the circuit numbers lined up perfectly with the SSR, it did not work. I sourced a pedal from a 2005+ Trailblazer/Envoy 4.2L and it worked perfectly. Very common to find in a scrap yard does not need to be a V8 they all used the same pedal right up to the SS.
Cruise Wiring:
This is where this thread came in handy. Thank you very much usc2001gc!
C1 43- Clutch Position - I wired this to 12V switched power. No need to wire in a clutch switch, although it is a great idea. You want 0V when the clutch is pressed, 12V when the clutch is at rest. VCM Scanner says that the clutch is engaged when you wire it this way which threw me off, just ignore that.
C1 46- Brake Switch, Hook up to 2 pole brake switch. This leg needs 12V when the brake pedal is at rest, 0V when the brake pedal is at rest.
C1 32- Brake Switch, Hook up to 2 pole brake switch. This leg needs 0V when the brake pedal is at rest, 12V when the brake pedal is at rest. Both these brake pins need to appose each other, cruise will be inhibited if you jump either of them. As me how I know.
C1 17- Cruise Control On Switch Signal, From cruise control switch. This is not momentary, it needs to be 12V the entire time you want the cruise to be on.
C1 27- CC Set/Coast Switch Signal, From the cruise switch, 12V momentary to Set/Coast
C1 33- CC Accel/Resume Switch Signal, From the cruise switch, 12V momentary to Accel/Resume
The cruise switch itself required 3 additional hook ups, 12V switched power, ground, and a tie in the to lighting circuit for illumination.
I had issues getting the cruise to engage initially, but later found it was inhibited by a DTC for the VSS. When I was experimenting with the VSS it had come up and was still lingering. I cleared the code and the cruise started working.
I am very excited to have cruise control and I hope this helps someone in the future. This information applies to LS4s and LS2s. If doing a swap I strongly recommend using a 12596679 ECM with a 2005/2006 SSR calibration. Throw away the GTO, TBSS, LS4, etc calibrations.
Last edited by jschatte; 08-10-2018 at 10:26 AM.
#27
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Thank you so much for this information. I just got my cruise control working last night....
...I am very excited to have cruise control and I hope this helps someone in the future. This information applies to LS4s and LS2s. If doing a swap I strongly recommend using a 12596679 ECM with a 2005/2006 SSR calibration. Throw away the GTO, TBSS, LS4, etc calibrations.
...I am very excited to have cruise control and I hope this helps someone in the future. This information applies to LS4s and LS2s. If doing a swap I strongly recommend using a 12596679 ECM with a 2005/2006 SSR calibration. Throw away the GTO, TBSS, LS4, etc calibrations.
Your information will be very helpful when I start wiring.
Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 08-11-2018 at 06:51 AM.
#29
Glad I could help, let me know if you have any issues. I had a hell of a time getting my cruise to work, there is no need you also need to struggle.
I saw the DBW cruise. It was no use to me as the VSS for the LS4 is fed into the TCM, then transferred over the serial bus to the ECM. I needed to switch to the SSR timing cover and ECM Calibration anyway, may as well use the built in functionality. It is also cheaper to do it this way, albeit more difficult since it is not documented very well.
I saw the DBW cruise. It was no use to me as the VSS for the LS4 is fed into the TCM, then transferred over the serial bus to the ECM. I needed to switch to the SSR timing cover and ECM Calibration anyway, may as well use the built in functionality. It is also cheaper to do it this way, albeit more difficult since it is not documented very well.
#30
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Thank you so much for this information. I just got my cruise control working last night.
I have a LS4, and wanted cruise control. I tried pulling on the DBW pedal with an aftermarket cruise control unit, but it did not work very well. With the ECM based cruise control it is super solid.
Hardware changes:
-Re-flashed ECM from LS4 calibration to 2006 SSR Calibration and copy over my LS4 tune.
-Re-pined ECM. I had to shuffle around the pins for the pedal and throttle body, Class 2 data, add an o2 sensor (the LS4 only has 1 bank), and of course add the cruise wiring.
-Added a VSS. Installed in Pins C44 and C45, polarity does not matter. I used a VSS from a S10 as it had threads and a 30tooth reluctor ring on the driveshaft. In HPTuners I set the tooth count to 30, ratio to 1:1 (sensor on wheel hub) and set my revs per mile based on my tire size.
-Changed the timing cover. The LS4 has a unique timing cover that is 180deg off from the LS2/LS3 timing cover. WIthout changing it the car would only fire half the time. Removed the LS4 timing cover and installed a LS2/LS3 timing cover.
-Swapped out the accelerator pedal. Even though my LS4 pedal plugged right in and all the circuit numbers lined up perfectly with the SSR, it did not work. I sourced a pedal from a 2005+ Trailblazer/Envoy 4.2L and it worked perfectly. Very common to find in a scrap yard does not need to be a V8 they all used the same pedal right up to the SS.
Cruise Wiring:
This is where this thread came in handy. Thank you very much usc2001gc!
C1 43- Clutch Position - I wired this to 12V switched power. No need to wire in a clutch switch, although it is a great idea. You want 0V when the clutch is pressed, 12V when the clutch is at rest. VCM Scanner says that the clutch is engaged when you wire it this way which threw me off, just ignore that.
C1 46- Brake Switch, Hook up to 2 pole brake switch. This leg needs 12V when the brake pedal is at rest, 0V when the brake pedal is at rest.
C1 32- Brake Switch, Hook up to 2 pole brake switch. This leg needs 0V when the brake pedal is at rest, 12V when the brake pedal is at rest. Both these brake pins need to appose each other, cruise will be inhibited if you jump either of them. As me how I know.
C1 17- Cruise Control On Switch Signal, From cruise control switch. This is not momentary, it needs to be 12V the entire time you want the cruise to be on.
C1 27- CC Set/Coast Switch Signal, From the cruise switch, 12V momentary to Set/Coast
C1 33- CC Accel/Resume Switch Signal, From the cruise switch, 12V momentary to Accel/Resume
The cruise switch itself required 3 additional hook ups, 12V switched power, ground, and a tie in the to lighting circuit for illumination.
I had issues getting the cruise to engage initially, but later found it was inhibited by a DTC for the VSS. When I was experimenting with the VSS it had come up and was still lingering. I cleared the code and the cruise started working.
I am very excited to have cruise control and I hope this helps someone in the future. This information applies to LS4s and LS2s. If doing a swap I strongly recommend using a 12596679 ECM with a 2005/2006 SSR calibration. Throw away the GTO, TBSS, LS4, etc calibrations.
I have a LS4, and wanted cruise control. I tried pulling on the DBW pedal with an aftermarket cruise control unit, but it did not work very well. With the ECM based cruise control it is super solid.
Hardware changes:
-Re-flashed ECM from LS4 calibration to 2006 SSR Calibration and copy over my LS4 tune.
-Re-pined ECM. I had to shuffle around the pins for the pedal and throttle body, Class 2 data, add an o2 sensor (the LS4 only has 1 bank), and of course add the cruise wiring.
-Added a VSS. Installed in Pins C44 and C45, polarity does not matter. I used a VSS from a S10 as it had threads and a 30tooth reluctor ring on the driveshaft. In HPTuners I set the tooth count to 30, ratio to 1:1 (sensor on wheel hub) and set my revs per mile based on my tire size.
-Changed the timing cover. The LS4 has a unique timing cover that is 180deg off from the LS2/LS3 timing cover. WIthout changing it the car would only fire half the time. Removed the LS4 timing cover and installed a LS2/LS3 timing cover.
-Swapped out the accelerator pedal. Even though my LS4 pedal plugged right in and all the circuit numbers lined up perfectly with the SSR, it did not work. I sourced a pedal from a 2005+ Trailblazer/Envoy 4.2L and it worked perfectly. Very common to find in a scrap yard does not need to be a V8 they all used the same pedal right up to the SS.
Cruise Wiring:
This is where this thread came in handy. Thank you very much usc2001gc!
C1 43- Clutch Position - I wired this to 12V switched power. No need to wire in a clutch switch, although it is a great idea. You want 0V when the clutch is pressed, 12V when the clutch is at rest. VCM Scanner says that the clutch is engaged when you wire it this way which threw me off, just ignore that.
C1 46- Brake Switch, Hook up to 2 pole brake switch. This leg needs 12V when the brake pedal is at rest, 0V when the brake pedal is at rest.
C1 32- Brake Switch, Hook up to 2 pole brake switch. This leg needs 0V when the brake pedal is at rest, 12V when the brake pedal is at rest. Both these brake pins need to appose each other, cruise will be inhibited if you jump either of them. As me how I know.
C1 17- Cruise Control On Switch Signal, From cruise control switch. This is not momentary, it needs to be 12V the entire time you want the cruise to be on.
C1 27- CC Set/Coast Switch Signal, From the cruise switch, 12V momentary to Set/Coast
C1 33- CC Accel/Resume Switch Signal, From the cruise switch, 12V momentary to Accel/Resume
The cruise switch itself required 3 additional hook ups, 12V switched power, ground, and a tie in the to lighting circuit for illumination.
I had issues getting the cruise to engage initially, but later found it was inhibited by a DTC for the VSS. When I was experimenting with the VSS it had come up and was still lingering. I cleared the code and the cruise started working.
I am very excited to have cruise control and I hope this helps someone in the future. This information applies to LS4s and LS2s. If doing a swap I strongly recommend using a 12596679 ECM with a 2005/2006 SSR calibration. Throw away the GTO, TBSS, LS4, etc calibrations.