Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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71 Cutlass Conv L96/T56 build in Dayton OH

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Old 07-18-2012, 10:15 PM
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Well kind of stupidly I went ahead and turned it over w/rail out. Only one injector shot fuel. So of course it wouldn't run. Tomorrow I'll try soaking in seafoam all day after I remove the o-rings and keeping the electrical end out of the seafoam.

Edit: Decided more soak time would be better. Since Walmart open 24 hrs, went down and bought some seafoam. Came back, removed injectors from rail and their o-rings, then got them soaking. This will give me 18 hours before I get after it again. Hopefully at least they'll be clean and work well.

Last edited by Goldhawg; 07-18-2012 at 11:17 PM.
Old 07-19-2012, 01:13 AM
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Good luck! I hope it works well for you.

LOL. Just noticed we both have 333 posts.
Old 07-21-2012, 04:52 PM
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Well, still striking out on getting the car running...for more than 20-30 secs. I've force fed fuel thru the throttle body and it does start and run. AKNOVAMAN suggested doing that to allow any air in the system to purge, and hopefully allow my cleaned injectors to work. Unfortunately when the fuel runs out, the car dies. The injectors were from the LS3 camaro intake w/16k miles; don't know how long it was off the car. I soaked the injectors for 16 hours or so in seafoam, but otherwise didn't do anything to try and clean them. W/9v battery I heard a little pop on each one after soaking when I briefly touched the lead (less than a second on it), so I thought that meant the injectors worked. Not sure what next; may see if there is a shop in Dayton that can professionally clean these injectors on Monday. Bottom line is its tough to run w/o fuel. Good news is my oil pump works and on start up have about 35-40 psi oil pressure.

My last attempt was to unplug the MAF which should set it to max fuel, but that didn't do it either. When it dies it now sounds like a few of the injectors are working; like it is only on 3-4 cylinders when it dies.

Edit: should say fuel pressure at the rail reads ~55psi while this runs

This video was my next to last attempt w/only a tablespoon or so of gas:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R_qVd...ature=youtu.be

Last edited by Goldhawg; 07-21-2012 at 05:03 PM.
Old 07-21-2012, 05:30 PM
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Sounds like something is preventing fuel pump from staying on ( software). Temporarily hot wire it by removing relay and jumpering pins 30 and 87 on relay socket.
Old 07-21-2012, 05:46 PM
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Tried jumpering the fuel relay; worked in that I could hear the fuel pump going constantly, but nothing changed. I've had 55 psi at the rail fairly constant. I would think that would be sufficient.
Old 07-21-2012, 06:01 PM
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Does VATS cause the injectors to quit working? Just wonder exactly how VATS prevents the motor from running. Anyways it looks like you are that close to getting it running.
Old 07-21-2012, 06:32 PM
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Software. (vats not correctly turned off)

Last edited by aknovaman; 07-23-2012 at 09:15 PM.
Old 07-21-2012, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 1989GTA
Does VATS cause the injectors to quit working? Just wonder exactly how VATS prevents the motor from running. Anyways it looks like you are that close to getting it running.
Good ?. does vats only disable fuel?
Old 07-21-2012, 10:57 PM
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For discussion I would think you would want to cut off the fuel if one was going to disable the motor. I don't think it would be a good idea to have raw fuel injected into the cylinders. So based on that line of thinking I would think VATS would cut off the fuel flow. So could it be that you ECM was not deleted of VATS? I know people have had problems in the past with deleting VATS.
Old 07-22-2012, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 1989GTA
For discussion I would think you would want to cut off the fuel if one was going to disable the motor. I don't think it would be a good idea to have raw fuel injected into the cylinders. So based on that line of thinking I would think VATS would cut off the fuel flow. So could it be that you ECM was not deleted of VATS? I know people have had problems in the past with deleting VATS.
I'm now almost certain that VATS was not disabled. I rented the noid light at AZ this a.m. and just checked it out; no injectors are firing. I had mentally thought I had one injector working cuz a fuel leak below one injector after I had loosely removed the rail/injectors from manifold and turned over the engine. But I didn't see the injector fire; I now think that I must have loosened that injector from the rail upon removal and hence the gas rather than one injector was firing.

So tuner is coming back out. AKNOVAMAN was gave me some info that he used to get a similar 2010 E38 silverado motor running; I'll share w/my tuner as E38 ECUs are different for VATS. Hopefully it will be running on Monday.

Last edited by Goldhawg; 07-23-2012 at 04:32 PM.
Old 07-23-2012, 12:20 PM
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Got it running this a.m.; VATS was not correctly deleted before--got it out now. Have a few problems to rundown; I had to reorder the MAF pins for the LS3 MAF; still having an issue w/IAT (reads -40) so not sure it is correct. I'll do more research there. Also, the fans never came on even though I let it get up to 228 deg. I know the fans work; I'll double check the wiring. VSS reads 158, and I don't seem to be getting a tach signal yet. More to follow....but after a year, it runs!!!!!!

EDIT: here are pics of the MAF connector before and after; first picture is with the truck wiring order which wouldn't work. 2nd is correct; unfortunately my IAT wires are correct and yet I don't have IAT--MAF sensor new from Rockauto is bad. Replacement MAF on the way.
Attached Thumbnails 71 Cutlass Conv L96/T56 build in Dayton OH-ls3-maf-w-truck-wiring.jpg   71 Cutlass Conv L96/T56 build in Dayton OH-maf-wiring-w-correct-pinout.jpg  

Last edited by Goldhawg; 07-23-2012 at 09:05 PM.
Old 07-23-2012, 12:37 PM
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That is good news.
Old 07-23-2012, 05:24 PM
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Alright.
On the IAT, the same ecu uses the LS3 and truck sensors, so I'm guessing that's a tune issue.
On the VSS, if it's not calibrated right your speed limiter will kick in, so fix that before you drive too far.
Old 07-23-2012, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by garys 68
Alright.
On the IAT, the same ecu uses the LS3 and truck sensors, so I'm guessing that's a tune issue.
On the VSS, if it's not calibrated right your speed limiter will kick in, so fix that before you drive too far.
I know there is a difference in tuning for the maf; don't know of that for IAT. I talked w/AKNOVAMAN (who did my harness) and we thought the IAT part of MAF bad. He also walked me thru how my tuner guy can set the Vehicle speed correctly.

Well, here is a video of it running.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-Xvk...ature=youtu.be
Old 07-25-2012, 09:45 AM
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Well, as I feared, my v-band clamps in front of the muffler leaked; drivers side like a sieve. I don't know how, cuz in welding I had them fully connected before welding to the exhaust pipe--should have had surface mating perfectly flush. But when the whole setup was on I had an angle between the pipes that the clamp couldn't straighten. Should have mounted that first, then the front pipes to the exhaust manifold--maybe then I could have had the correct angle.

Nevertheless, I decided to try first a walker v-band clamp from summit rather than the imported junk I undoubtedly bought off ebay. Big lesson learned, I should've started with the walker's in the first place. Check out the size difference between these two clamps. While trying to tighten my original down the threads stripped and the bolt bent. Notice the walker is significantly bigger. Unfortunately the walker would not fit with the two pieces I previously welded to the exhaust pipe--so couldn't try to crank it down with the larger clamp. So since I had no leakage with the clamp that came w/my pypes kit, I took a spare piece I had down to the local muffler shop and they stretched the ends to a slip fit. I cut out the leaking v-band set up w/a sawsall, and put the section back together using the pieces they shaped and some of the pypes clamps that I hadn't used previously. Now it doesn't leak.

I did notice a couple of pinhole leaks in the tig welding forward. I ordered a 2lb roll of stainless 308L for my mig this morning; I'll use it to plug the small holes. Reading says I should be able to get away w/75/25 AR/CO2 mix for this small hole. I'll put on bit of eastwood exhaust paint to avoid any rusting on the weld due to the higher carbon. In hindsight I should have used the mig to do it all anyway. Although I tacked with the mig, the tig heat did cause the exhaust to warp a bit, and not having it on the car while doing didn't allow me to keep it straight. I then could've justified buying a bottle of tri-mix shielding gas for the SS.

On another note, still trying to figure out my fans. Think since they are controlled by the ecm and my ecm is out of silverado w/mechanical fans my tuner needs to fix. But I'd like to find out exactly what he needs to do to make sure we get this right.
Attached Thumbnails 71 Cutlass Conv L96/T56 build in Dayton OH-walker-v-band-vs-china.jpg   71 Cutlass Conv L96/T56 build in Dayton OH-v-band-clamps-replaced.jpg  
Old 07-26-2012, 09:26 PM
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Tuner got the fans operating properly today; new MAF came from Rockauto today and the IAT reads correctly. Runs like a dog; so just unplugging until the tuner can get it at the dyno to fix (LS3 MAF needs adjusting for L96). Had a problem w/my parking lamp; ordered a new one from Fusick but it came in and blew fuses. They're sending me a new one. Why is it that all my parts come in defective?

Still trying to figure out how to solve my VSS input to PCM (reads 158); have a separate post asking for help. Got my dash controller for AC back from Classic Auto Air; hope to install tomorrow. Dash is in; just have to connect some of the vents. then still a million little things. Goal is put back together tomorrow/saturday and into the tuners and get the AC system charged next week. Next weekend I'd love to be driving.
Old 08-05-2012, 05:23 PM
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First real drive today....I am impressed w/the power and I can tell there is a lot more to come. First I don't have tach working yet so loathe to push hard, but I can also tell it really needs to be tuned. Good power and then the cam really pushes it higher--not balanced across the power curve. I think the tuner should be able to get it much better.

Only real reservation is the tranny; I don't like the way the clutch operates. It takes hold very quick, i.e., little pedal travel for it to go from fully engaged to disengaged. So it is hard for me to be smooth. I also have a far amount of leg pressure required to engage it. I had the mount lower and it took a king kong leg to engage to I moved the attach point up and it is easier but still not super easy (I'm only using LS7 clutch and stock '01 slave cylinder, w/tick adjustable master). I'm hoping the clutch will get a bit easier and I'll get used to driving it. After all this was my first real drive of putting power to it (I did drive it around the block last nite but didn't get on it).

Still a bunch of miscellaneous things to work thru, but hope to get to tuners this week. I'm pretty psyched--this thing is a beast!!
Old 08-05-2012, 07:24 PM
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Regarding the tranny I am taking the easy way out and went with the 6L80.
Old 08-23-2012, 08:34 PM
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Quick update. Have had the car in w/tuners a week now, and he finally figured out a residual TCM prob (don't know what) that wouldn't allow the timing to advance as you go up rpm. Was stuck at 245HP; now getting 375 rwhp @ 6100. He has done nothing yet to take advantage of the new cam in the s/w; he expects 10-15 more. Still hoping for 400! But idle w/maf and part throttle driveability are for the most part excellent; he says there is a little issue as you go down from speed, but he thinks that's due to VSS still reading 158. That should be fixed next.

Can't wait to drive!
Old 08-24-2012, 07:25 AM
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I'm a little surprized you can do anything with the ecu hitting the speed limiter. My car was completely undrivable when I switched reluctors and it was shutting down due to it thinking I was going 150mph.


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