Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

I'm already at an uncomfortable -5 deg. Although when I put 300lbs (2 adults) on the front to compress the springs to more normal height it gets closer to -3.

Bottom line is the hedders are packed up and going back tomorrow; I'm only out shipping to try this. Also after putting it up, it didn't really offer room to put cats on between the exit and the crossmember, so I guess I'm better w/shorties or manifolds. Still trying to find out if Hooker's new manifolds offer any performance increase over stock.

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

Ok, good information to know, thank you

aknovaman

iTrader: (7)

Chk your email for FedEx tracking number for wires.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Well, got a small item done. I removed the stock 4X10 dash speaker, made an aluminum bracket to attach two existing infiniti speakers I had, and mounted in the existing spot. When the top is down I can't hear music very well; this should help. I will split the signal going to the front speakers and this should be good.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Well one success, one failure on my sensor connectors. My tig welding skills screwed up my adapter that I was trying to weld into the freeze plug; but my machine shop bud bailed me out. after I burned thru the adapter he finished tig welding this, and then we drilled the slag out of the inner threads and retapped. This one works fine. The failure is the two adapters I ordered to use the valley cover oil port wouldn't tighten down; the brass adapter bottomed out at the aluminum, and then the t-fitting I needed to point the oil sensor away wouldn't tighten and I stripped some of the brass threads away. Not sure which one is the problem, but I need a new one. I'll try to find a steel adapter.

71403

Is that brass adapter correct? The factory sender has straight thread with a sealing washer.

I took the cheap way out. j/y broken oil pressure sender, drill n tap for 1/8-npt.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Been doing a few things. Got my wiring cover for the engine harness and started to connect that, cut a whole in the floor of the trunk for the impala tank. Realized I need to have the exhaust pipes in before I can mount the tank to verify clearance, so started thinking about the exhaust. Got a set of Camaro LS3 exhaust manifolds, painted them w/eastwood's high temp coating. Pretty pleased with how they look; baked them in my powdercoating oven today @ 600 deg just so they don't smoke too much on start up. Decided to go ahead and install my intake, and then I screwed up and believed a post I saw that intake torque was 18 ft/lbs. That didn't seem like too much until one of the bolts snapped. So, out with the welder and a nut to try and get the old one out. Took several trys but finally got it--had to get it on the 220v settings and really burn it in to weld the thread. But its out now.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Exhaust manifold is 18 ft/lbs.
Intake is 44 (first pass), 88 (second pass) in/lbs.
Now the real shocker, wait till you see the price on the intake manifold bolts from the dealer.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Well, I only have to buy one. But if this thread is right at pro touring, I can buy 10 @ Mcmaster carr for under $6

"I ended up going with stainless socket head bolts from McMaster Carr. $12 for ten of them. 6mm (1mm pitch) by 120mm length"

Aceshigh

Are you talking about the brake distribution block on the DR side inner frame by the headers ??
It's not a prop valve, its a distribution point......nothing special.

I asked about it on Classic Olds awhile back and found out you don't even need it.
It was more of a "Luxury" item to have a brake idiot light to tell you that brake fluid pressure drops
http://www.opgi.com/p/brakes/16725/176/CH26981.html

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Aces, you actually do need the distribution block on disk/drum setups. The 72 combines the warning light switch with a valve that maintains pressure in the line to the drums. Earlier years used 2 separate blocks.

And on the bolts, I wasn't sure if the intake needed the flange bolts, so I just bought a set from the dealer.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

I actually already have the stuff to put up the proportioning valve up top. That's probably my next effort when I get several hours on the car; need to do that to put manifold on. Today I went ahead and ported the manifold exit to take it from 2.25 in to 2.5--so my 2.5 in exhaust pipe will line right up. Not super smooth, but better than the factory and much more open.

BTW, I'll ask the stupid ? since my best friend google let me down--can you reuse the stock metal exhaust gaskets? I know they're relatively inexpensive, but if you can reuse them I will.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Well, after seeing another poster just bend the lines on his brake distribution box to move it off the offending spot on the frame rail, I followed suit this evening. The exhaust manifolds are now on; after two sets of headers I'm happy to have something on the exhaust that will work. I really like the look of Eastwood's hi temp silver on the manifolds, even though the heat shields cover a bit. I went ahead and sanded the previous grinding smooth on the manifold exit. This will have to do for performance; I'll be stepping directly into 2.5 in pipe and a catalytic converter.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Slowly making progress; expect to make a lot more over the next two months...hope to have it running. Have corvette accessories but using truck alternator w/only one bolt, installed my adjustable rear UCAs to be able to set pinion angle, and mounted my corvette FPR.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Speedhut gauges came in today; I think w/minor trimming on the instrument bezel I can mount them to it since the gauges are only ~2" thick. And given the price of original rally pac gauges, I can sell those to fund these.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Well I found a replacement dash on c/l yesterday; decided to pick it up since it was only $100. I had cut my radio out years ago when you couldn't get a nice stereo in; now I can buy a custom autosound setup w/***** an modern stereo. I bought some plexiglass that lowes had to make a plastic bracket for my gauges. Came out pretty well.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Love the 442 on the gauges. Are you going to keep the wood grain look?

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Hope to keep the wood, but man is it expensive. Unfortunately I can't reuse mine since it is cut out of the radio. We'll see.

But I did get a universal size griffen radiator from Summit yesterday; I think I'll be pretty happy but I think it sits a bit taller than my stock radiator. I'll make it work. At less than $300, seems pretty good.

rallystyle

iTrader: (1)

everything is looking good. what is the part # for that radiator?

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

gri-8-00008-ls radiator; note this is for a manual tranny which is cheaper

Oh, and if you get one they throw in a radiator cap, but you have to click on something when it goes in your cart to get it. I didn't do that so I had to call them back up to get it.