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71 Cutlass Conv L96/T56 build in Dayton OH

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Old 03-10-2012, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by garys 68
That statement confuses me. What are you trying to do?
At this point, based on yours and fatfreegto inputs, I believe I need to have a rubber hose connecting the back of the driver's valve cover port (which I suspect used to have the PCV valve on top of it?) to the vacuum port on the intake (passenger side that my index finger was pointing to) and I need another rubber hose connecting the tube off the passenger valve cover that connects forward into the air intake past the map. I was wondering if there was a preformed hose in the correct shape already.

But after your ?, I went down and looked at the truck manifold and it had a plastic connector from the top of the manifold to where I think you are suggesting the PCV should be (which is too short and wrong shape to reuse). And I'm guessing LS3 valve covers don't have this tube coming off the valve cover since they have that valley cover tube. So probably no GM preformed piece.

Ok, well on to the next subject, I decided to mount my accessories since the truck manifold wouldn't fit. They are under the hood line, but maybe less than 1/2 inch, so likely to have interference--but I might get lucky. Also, saw an article that suggested the 98-02 camaro alternator is a little smaller so I could go that route. But I really don't like the looks of the alternator so high up. And just read some posts that Kwik brackets have had some problems. So not sure where I want to go with accessories right now. I like the looks of the corvette GMPP FEAD, but that requires fabbing some spacers (doable) and its a bit pricey. So I went ahead and trimmed the stock bracket to clear the throttle body, since the idler pulley has to move anyway. But now I noticed that the tensioner that I bought for the Kwik ac pulley seems out of line with the trucks accessories. Wondering if that needs some add'l spacers. ON the positive side w/the BRP mounts the stock PS pulley clears the steering gearbox, but I would at least get an round allen head bolt if I go this route.
Attached Thumbnails 71 Cutlass Conv L96/T56 build in Dayton OH-dsc00780.jpg   71 Cutlass Conv L96/T56 build in Dayton OH-dsc00781.jpg   71 Cutlass Conv L96/T56 build in Dayton OH-dsc00783.jpg  
Old 03-10-2012, 06:16 PM
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I had my hood clearance issues at the throttle body which was relocated to the passenger side of the blower and is actually angled up just slightly. I also had a bit of an issue with the drive pulley. Since you have neither of the issues I bet the RA hood will fit just fine.
Old 03-11-2012, 03:49 AM
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no clearance problems with the alternator on mine.
If you bought the Kwik AC bracket, the tensioner bolts to the bracket after installation, not to the original position.
Old 03-11-2012, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by garys 68
no clearance problems with the alternator on mine.
If you bought the Kwik AC bracket, the tensioner bolts to the bracket after installation, not to the original position.
I know most have been able to get away with truck alternator, but my BRP mounts are higher. Looked at the hood and I'm really skeptical its going to work. Re the Kwik tensioner, I was thinking that it must have some sort of spacer as part of the compressor install; just hadn't gotten that far.

There is a local guy has a 2004 corvette that I might be able to buy the accessories off of; any reason why I shouldn't want that if I can get at a good price? Any difference between c5 and c6 accessories for install?

Fatfreegto: do you have any pics and dimensions of the spacers you used on corvette accessories? I may be going this route and want to fab those up.
Old 03-11-2012, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Goldhawg
There is a local guy has a 2004 corvette that I might be able to buy the accessories off of; any reason why I shouldn't want that if I can get at a good price? Any difference between c5 and c6 accessories for install?

Fatfreegto: do you have any pics and dimensions of the spacers you used on corvette accessories? I may be going this route and want to fab those up.
I'm not sure if there are any differences between C5 and C6. To the best of my knowledge there isn't any physical difference between the 2. As for the spacers they are just 1.5" long, I used a piece of 1/2" stainless steel rigid electrical conduit (thick wall not emt) that I cut down to those 1.5" pieces. Then installed them along with longer bolts for the p.s and alternator bracket.

Old 03-11-2012, 11:24 AM
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Will the C5 P/S pump provide enough pressure and flow to power HB brakes and P/S?
Old 03-11-2012, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by FatfreeGTO
I'm not sure if there are any differences between C5 and C6. To the best of my knowledge there isn't any physical difference between the 2. As for the spacers they are just 1.5" long, I used a piece of 1/2" stainless steel rigid electrical conduit (thick wall not emt) that I cut down to those 1.5" pieces. Then installed them along with longer bolts for the p.s and alternator bracket.
Thx much. Is that readily available at normal HW stores like HD or Lowes? I was thinking I'd have to get aluminum bar stock and cut it and drill it.
Old 03-11-2012, 12:35 PM
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Back to my valley cover question, while I don't need to use the LS3 valley cover, I'm leaning to install it and use the LS3 factory prebent rubber hose rather than making my own long run from the drivers rear valve cover. The way I'm reading all the posts (see below), the LS3 doesn't have a PCV valve; the suction off the valley cover does this job (there is a plastic "catch can" thing mounted under it). I'd just plug off the drivers valve cover. This seems acceptable and a cleaner approach. Any thing I'm not thinking about?

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...3-ls3-pvc.html
Old 03-11-2012, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Goldhawg
Thx much. Is that readily available at normal HW stores like HD or Lowes? I was thinking I'd have to get aluminum bar stock and cut it and drill it.
I had thought about doing what you suggested with cutting and drilling but this was the cheapest option for me since I got the pipe for free.

I don't believe HD or Lowes would have it, I'm an electrician so I have access to the stuff. You would have to visit an electrical supply house and even then it would be pricey. I looked and grainger has a 24" piece of it but it still runs $32 for that. I noticed that mcmastercarr.com sells spacers in various lengths and diameters, that could be your best bet.
Old 03-11-2012, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 67Skylark
Will the C5 P/S pump provide enough pressure and flow to power HB brakes and P/S?
I guess that's something to check...do you have reason to think that would be a problem or you're just curious? I would think with those monster wheels they'd need pretty decent pressure.

EDIT EDIT:
Checked w/Marcus @ SC&C where I bought my hydraboost and he said it should work fine.

Last edited by Goldhawg; 03-14-2012 at 02:11 PM.
Old 03-11-2012, 12:54 PM
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Just intrested as I'm putting a C5 setup on the front of an LY6. Hope to install a procharger down the road and thinking HB would be the way to go at that point. I cut a spacer out of 7075 also 1.5" thick and it look like it is going to work, but I have run engine yet.
Attached Thumbnails 71 Cutlass Conv L96/T56 build in Dayton OH-dscf0956.jpg   71 Cutlass Conv L96/T56 build in Dayton OH-dscf0957.jpg  
Old 03-11-2012, 02:48 PM
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Well, back to wiring while I'm pondering. Looking at my starter solenoid, I have a piece knocked out of the plastic around the battery lug. Is there any reason I just can't put some silicone in there to seal that up? Don't have the factory connector for the purple wire/neutral safety; looks like a trip to napa or the dealership tomorrow.

Just placed on order for the Doug's Headers; the income tax refund coming in handy.
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Old 03-11-2012, 04:02 PM
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Clean it with acetone. Make a form out of carboard, masking tape, etc. Fill it with epoxy.
Old 03-14-2012, 06:26 PM
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Well happiness is almost seeing the Doug's Headers box on my doorstep when I get home. But unfortunately....

First I unpack and one header is in shrink wrap and the other not. Looks like a return header set. No big deal, but there is a small dimple on the front passenger tube. Anyway I'm not that particular, I start to work on the drivers side to see if it will fit. For sure going to have to move the brake proportioning valve. But back looks like it hits the floorpan. Get the wife out to hold it up while I climb up top to line up the holes. I raise the back end of the header up and it looks like it will work, although can't really tell cuz I'll need to move the proportioning valve; can't get the flange flush w/head. Forget to ask the wife about the floorpan, but thinking it will work. Get down and put the passenger side header up and it is definitely hitting the floor (pic doesn't show it; this is hanging down cuz I can't get the other bolt in--just resting on the back spark plug here but you see its right there). Put the front bolt in to hold it in place and cannot raise the header high enough to get another bolt in. These are not going to work; I'm a victim of the higher BRP mounts and the possible squished 40 year old body bushings....
Attached Thumbnails 71 Cutlass Conv L96/T56 build in Dayton OH-doug-s-headers-box.jpg   71 Cutlass Conv L96/T56 build in Dayton OH-header-wrapped-unwrapped.jpg   71 Cutlass Conv L96/T56 build in Dayton OH-header-dimple.jpg   71 Cutlass Conv L96/T56 build in Dayton OH-header-hits-floor.jpg  

Last edited by Goldhawg; 03-14-2012 at 07:38 PM. Reason: clarity on final pic
Old 03-14-2012, 10:26 PM
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I want to try these headers also but do you think there is something wrong with your setup and not the headers?
How much were they and where did you get them from?
Old 03-15-2012, 04:51 AM
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Originally Posted by LS1 pwrd NOVA
I want to try these headers also but do you think there is something wrong with your setup and not the headers?
How much were they and where did you get them from?
I think the headers are fine if not using the BRP mounts. Search on Abody dougs headers and you'll see several people using them and they tuck up nice and high and therefore won't drag. That does cause problems as you see w/me and the BRP mounts. I didn't buy the BRP headers cuz I didn't think they were as good a quality (thinner gauge steel), but I guess I'll have to. I bought from Carshopinc.com, who responded in the thread I started on dougs headers abody. Price was $600 to my door.
Old 03-15-2012, 07:30 AM
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Just about everyone has to move the proportioning valve.
What's your engine/driveline angle? Would dropping the rear of the trans help the fit?
Old 03-15-2012, 08:13 AM
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What made you think the BRP headers which are made by Hedman are a thinner gauge of metal? I looked at both BRP's and the Doug's and I didn't see anything on the gauge of metal thickness? I think that is why it is best to try and stick with one manufacturer when it comes to these swap kits as they already know what works with their setup.

I used the BRP's headers with my BRP kit and everything fit fine.
Old 03-15-2012, 08:41 AM
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That prop valve is a bitch, but having to move it is part of what prompted me to redo my brakes in their entirety, so maybe it was a good thing. ?
Have you considered the 98 f-body stock manifolds? They look like a simple and cheap option.
Old 03-15-2012, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by lizeec
What made you think the BRP headers which are made by Hedman are a thinner gauge of metal? I looked at both BRP's and the Doug's and I didn't see anything on the gauge of metal thickness? I think that is why it is best to try and stick with one manufacturer when it comes to these swap kits as they already know what works with their setup.

I used the BRP's headers with my BRP kit and everything fit fine.
Email back from Hedman says "We only offer the LS series hedder in 18 gauge..."

Ad for Doug's 3338 says, "Heavy gauge tubing (16 and 14G) for longer life"

I originally emailed Hedman hoping for an elite header for LS for 14G steel but they don't offer that.


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