Ground Issues???
Ground Issues??? My SES flickers while driving but stays on while idle. Also no scan tool I have tried will "communicate" with the DLC to show any codes. I have one ground strap from pass side head to the body and 3 grounds from the harness to the drivers side head. Do I need another ground directly from the engine to the frame? Or what else could these issues ??
You can't have too much ground. You should have a large engine to frame ground, as well as battery to frame. An engine to frame ground is a must. See if your problems go away that way. It can cure a lot of strange electrical problems.
The scanner does not show any connection at all....checked for power at the DLC and it has power
Like I said the only engine ground I currently have is from the pass head to the body...
Last edited by Petraszewsky; Mar 19, 2011 at 11:00 AM. Reason: updated
I would recommend you also ground the block/heads to the frame.
Battery = Frame, Body and engine block.
I added grounds all over the place, one on each side of the following:
Engine = Back of the head to the body and engine mounts to the Frame.
Frame = Frame to body (Front and Back of body)
As they say.. 90% of electrical problems are related to grounds...
Battery = Frame, Body and engine block.
I added grounds all over the place, one on each side of the following:
Engine = Back of the head to the body and engine mounts to the Frame.
Frame = Frame to body (Front and Back of body)
As they say.. 90% of electrical problems are related to grounds...
I would recommend you also ground the block/heads to the frame.
Battery = Frame, Body and engine block.
I added grounds all over the place, one on each side of the following:
Engine = Back of the head to the body and engine mounts to the Frame.
Frame = Frame to body (Front and Back of body)
As they say.. 90% of electrical problems are related to grounds...
Battery = Frame, Body and engine block.
I added grounds all over the place, one on each side of the following:
Engine = Back of the head to the body and engine mounts to the Frame.
Frame = Frame to body (Front and Back of body)
As they say.. 90% of electrical problems are related to grounds...
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Verdad Gallardo Evidently, since the car runs/drives, there's sufficient ground integrity to do so...good or less than great, it runs.
With the DLC not "making the trip" to the scanner, something else is wrong...
Add the grounds, then try again...No good?? Trace all the wires from the DLC to the PCM.
With the DLC not "making the trip" to the scanner, something else is wrong...
Add the grounds, then try again...No good?? Trace all the wires from the DLC to the PCM.
The scan tools used were the Actron one at Autozone (Free Scan) and then some large one they use at Jiffy Lube....They both apparently read 05+ Corvette CANbus and OBDII....They kept telling me that a fuse or something was probably blown which none are so I was thinking maybe ground issues...The only gauge that doesn't function is the fuel gauge.....I'll give the grounds a try and see if they help at alll
I meant to update this awhile back...The reason it wouldn't communicate with the scan tool was that pin14 was in pin13... (swap vehicle) So it worked instantly and the SES flickering was Trans code P0700 for code P0717 which is apparenty to specific to 80E and 70Es which mine is a 65E but I am using a Trailblazer SS operating system and they use a 70E. I did add a ground from block to frame. Right now I'm working on tweeking the tune. Thanks
Glad you got your problem fixed. Triple checking wiring is always a good thing.
FWIW, if you rely on sheet metal to carry current then you can expect to fight ground issues at some point. Batterys should always have two large gauge wires running straight to motor components. Remote mount batterys should have a negative lead going to block that is the same gauge as the positive battery lead. Any load should have two wires connected to it (like fuel pumps, headlights, etc).
Not to start a flame war but that is one place Japanese cars do better than the old muscle cars. They route a ground wire around with the hot wires and don't rely on body panels. Enigne sensors you have no choice but to rely on the engine for the ground path. But everything else, run two wires.
I would say 90% of the electrical problem I have fought in all my years have been bad switches and dirty connections.
FWIW, if you rely on sheet metal to carry current then you can expect to fight ground issues at some point. Batterys should always have two large gauge wires running straight to motor components. Remote mount batterys should have a negative lead going to block that is the same gauge as the positive battery lead. Any load should have two wires connected to it (like fuel pumps, headlights, etc).
Not to start a flame war but that is one place Japanese cars do better than the old muscle cars. They route a ground wire around with the hot wires and don't rely on body panels. Enigne sensors you have no choice but to rely on the engine for the ground path. But everything else, run two wires.
I would say 90% of the electrical problem I have fought in all my years have been bad switches and dirty connections.
"I would say 90% of the electrical problem I have fought in all my years have been bad switches and dirty connections."
Exactly why voltage drop testing does a much better job of locating problems that just a continuity test....
Exactly why voltage drop testing does a much better job of locating problems that just a continuity test....
Just an FYI, we have seen instances where a ground was needed from the passenger side of the engine (where battery was connected), to the driver's cylinder head (where harness was grounded). Grounding is key.
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How was that determined? I mean what was it doing that led you to try that? I only have one block to frame ground at present and I'm wondering if I shouldn't add grounds from the heads as well.