I just finished putting it all back together.
It's dark and I'm tire so I'm going to wait till morning ck all the fluids and look it over very well before I crank it up.

 

 

Congrats...lot's of work but you are certainly on the home stretch.

 

I can't make up my mind if I should hire someone to tune it or learn to do it.

 

Congrats.. I'll be keeping this one booked mark should I do my 88 C4...

Glad it see it finally done and on the road. keep us posted on the tuning and all..

BC

 

Two schools of thought on that...

If you plan to constantly change things...you're better off learning for yourself. Otherwise you'll be out X dollars every time you make a major change.

If you plan to leave it alone...get someone else to tune it and be done.

LSEdit isn't cheap...nor any of the other programs to change the computer. Last I remember seeing it was around $1300 for the software...so that would be your target. If you planned to do more than 3 or 4 changes...you'll break even buying the software and doing it yourself.

Can't wait to see video when it's running 100%...sounds good already.

 

I can buy Hp tuners for $500. It has already been tuned but the tuner said it could use some fine tuning once I got it going again. I also have some 28# injectors to replace the 26s I'm sure are operating near of at their duty cycle.

 

LSCha0s,
My hat off to you! Great work, Just started doing my 94 C4/LS1 swap. You've answered a ton of questions. I'm going with the T-56 . Once again great job.

 

hptuner is great.but,it doesn't come with an a to b roadmap.you have to spend a fair amount of time reading and learning. they most likely have a few lawyers telling them about the liability of screwing with emissions hardware and such. the learning itself is fun (at least for me).

 

You inspired me to paint my fuel rail red also! Great idea, it looks great! Now I'm waiting to get Holley LS valve covers to have powder coated black and red Chevy emblem on them.

 

Sorry I missed your post. Thanks and let me know if I can help.

I bit the bullet and had it tuned. The car is road worthy and lots of fun to drive.

Thanks I have been thinking about covers but I'm not sure yet. Post some pictures when you get them on.

 

I need to replace a shif solenoid but here is a little teaser.

 

What did it dyno at the tuners? Did your tuner have a dyno? Curious to see what that set up is making, I was considering stroking a 5.3 as well but to 383 ci. You did it do an LS1 spec 347 rotating assy. I'm assuming?

 

Its an LM7 bored to 5.7, ls1 heads and a MS3 cam. It dynoed at 370RWHP before it was put in the car. I have not dynoed the car yet but It was lean all over when I had it street tuned so it could be closer to 400RWHP now.

 

Lots of awesome info here brother! Really glad I found the thread.

One more question for you. (You're probably getting tired of them, lol) A few pages back there was talk of the truck motor's crank being too long. Is this true? I was just about to pull the trigger on a truck engine, because its cheaper, and seems to be stronger than the aluminum block. But my issue is I won't be able to (financially) afford a rebuild too. Would I be better off just going with the ls1 I found? Thanks again for all your help! You're a gentleman, and a Scholar. h

 

I hate to steer you wrong. I think there is a version of a truck crank that is too long but I have to look into it.

 

So I did find an answer. I know your's is done but may be helpful to others. Here's a qoute from GM.

"The crankshafts are mostly interchangeable, but the snouts on LS7 and LS9 crankshafts are approximately 1-inch longer to accommodate their two-stage oil pumps that work with the engines' dry-sump oiling systems. These forged crankshafts can be used on wet-sump engines by using a few specific components and/or modifications."

Read more: http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...#ixzz2eZT9R53I

Also found a speed guy in my area, named "Ellis Groo". Do you think his parents knew 50 years later he would be the "LS Guru"? He was very helpful and gave me a lot of places to get parts. So a shout out to "Speed Secrets" Of Monroe, Wa. http://www.speedsecretsefi.com/index.htm

Here's a couple links for a th700r4 tailhousing, and 4l60e adapter. http://atransmission.info/700r4-corv...using-new.html and http://www.advanceadapters.com/downloads/50-0405E.pdf

Im leanring a lot, but still feel Ive only scratched the surface. Still pretty unsure of the wiring. Maybe I'll send it to you since you enjoy it so much! Lol! Peace brother. h

 

they seem to have forgotten that some early 6.0L engines had a crank that was .400 longer at the rear so it could be used with the 4L80E without a spacer. easy to spot these as all others are flush to the rear seal.

 

That is new info to me. Thanks! Do you have a part number, or engine code? So I dont get that one. Peace. h

 

just look at the rear end of the crank.you want it to be flush to the seal.if it sticks out about .400 of an inch,its one of these rare early ones.