LSCha0s

iTrader: (4)

The stock 91 hose from the coolant res to the WP worked great. My heater/radiator hoses are done with the exception of the steam line. I was going to mod the pump but I have decided to put a T in the line going to the radiator from the coolant res.
I have been away for business for a few days but look what I found upon my return.
B&M trans cooler hose and fitting and stainless Random Tech front Y with cats designed for the 97-99 C5 should bolt straight up to my manifolds. I hope i dont have to cut them up to fit. Cross your fingers.


I need to get to work.

LSCha0s

iTrader: (4)

After about of week of trial and error I got my fuel lines done.
I flipped the fuel filter bracket and it bolted up almost where the stock filter went.I used 2 Aeroquip 90s and a union to connect the return line. I used one Aeroquip straight union for the main line. The fuel line to the rail was only a couple off feet long and runs nicely tucked against the frame rail. I'm going to clamp it in place when I run the trans cooler lines Sunday .. On a side note I was very impressed with the new style Russel quick connect to -6 AN connector. It actually screws in. I may go back and change the 2 on the filter later.

[IMG][/IMG]

LSCha0s

iTrader: (4)

I finished running the Transmission cooler lines yesterday. It fit nicely in between the A/C condenser and the radiator. I positioned it in front of my auxiliary fan.

LSCha0s

iTrader: (4)

So I got under the car with my new cats today and made some calculations. Looks like I will end up cutting them like this and it will be a straight shot to the exhaust. Tomorrow, to the fab shop.

kainedogg

iTrader: (23)

Chaos can you send me the part numbers for the Russel connects on your C5 regulator?

LSCha0s

iTrader: (4)

I ordered a Wix 33737 C5 fuel filter.
A kit from Nook and Tranny(part# KIT-NATFFFLS1)
A an-6 3/8 quick connect for the fuel rail(part #644123)
The -6 5/16 is Part #644113
They also come in blue but different part #s.

I also had 16MM to an-6 fitting that were on my car before. I put on the return and supply hard lines.
If you don't need the Kit from Knookandtranny just get the Russel 3/8 and 5/6 fittings they screw on instead of clip. I plan on replacing the ones i got from knookandtranny with those the first time I replace the fuel filter.

84lsvette

iTrader: (3)

I'm about to install mine since I got the old engine sold. 2 questions. Do you use the 84 mounts and the adapters allow them to bolt to the lsx block or do you use lsx mounts and it just places them in the correct position? Also did you make a new fuse box for a standalone harness or adapt the factory fuse box to work for the new ecu n fuel pump etc?

LSCha0s

iTrader: (4)

For 2 weeks I have been trying to figure out what to do with my booster check valve. I finally found a solution Help! part # 42054 and stock LS1 Camaro check valve. It's listed a s a PCV grommet it fits very tight but it fits. The inside diameter is a little off I had to use a drill bit on it. The little stuff like this is what takes a lot of leg work and can frustrate you to no end.

LSCha0s

iTrader: (4)

I spent the day working on the car. Most of the time I spent trying to make the stock trans dipstick fit. I tried taking of the mounting tab off but in the end I kinked it and it's ruined now. I'm going to order a lokar trans and oil dipstick.

I got all the accessories on now.

kainedogg

iTrader: (23)

Looking good brother.

LSCha0s

iTrader: (4)

Thanks buddy

LSCha0s

iTrader: (4)

Today I installed the Lokar throttle cable. It was a pain I had to remove the drivers seat.

This first picture is the stock cable and the Lokar notice the black clip on the stock cable. You are going to want to replace the Lokar clip with it so cut your cable and replace it. You will thank me later.


You will notice in this pic I have replaced the clip and added 2 washers. The washer on the outside is a hair bigger. On the inside there is insulation around the cable so i used a washer that was just big enough to fit in the opening.



The cable fits nicely in the F-body bracket.

LSCha0s

iTrader: (4)

I know you thought the manifolds were bolted up but they were just mocked up with no gasket. I took them off today and installed the Lokar oil and trans dipsticks and put them back on.
I also drilled some holes in the frame and put clamps on the transmission lines. I am not happy with the Lokar transmission line it does not like to bend. I will need to make some kind of bracket later and put it in a location where it will work better. I removed my old valve covers and replaced them with some powder coated covers. they were painted but were already starting to discolor.
Lets talk about brakes now.. I lucked out and ran into a good deal on some Baer brakes drilled and slotted rotors and ss brake lines. So tomorrow I will take a break.. an do the brakes.
Here are some pics.

Old vs new valve covers:



The Lokar dipsticks installed:



The Baer Calipers, Kinetic rotors and Goodridge SS brake lines:

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for the pics, and for reaffirming my choice to stay DBW..

LSCha0s

iTrader: (4)

Kissmabute..

LSCha0s

iTrader: (4)

So I thought I was going to just upgrade my barkes and rotors but its never that simple.
I spent most of the day Saturday and every evening after work cleaning my suspension it was filthy. I'm surprised how long it took to clean it all up. I used dawn and a brass brush.

Here is the Old set up. Notice the black gunk just above the rotor. This is what the entire knuckle looked like. YUK!



Here is one side done.. and don't worry I'm using my old pads for now to take care of the over spray and then going with new pads after a couple hundred miles.

84lsvette

iTrader: (3)

Do you heppen to know if A. that racetronix fuel pump kit would fit in my 84 sending unit? or if B. I can take a 90's sending unit and have it fit in my 84 tank? I'm thinking I would prefer this to welding a sump on the bottom of my tank and going external. If I have too I will but I didn't know if you happen to know if the tanks/sending units got changed thru the c4 body style. any help is appreciated. thanks

edit--think I found the answer to my question... is this the same pump you put in yours? 255lph pump in the factory sending unit then run to the corvette filter regulator?

http://www.racetronix.com/RX-C4345-FPKG-2.html

LSCha0s

iTrader: (4)

Racetronix should have a kit for you at the very most you may have to cut and sp[lice the wiring connector. It should physically fit. Yes that looks like the right kit just make sure its a 255 or enough to handle your power level.

LSCha0s

iTrader: (4)

I tapped my WP today. I was going to run a T to the radiator but once done i didn't like the way it looked. I ordered a 1/4 NPT 90 and Tap. I drilled a pilot 1/4 hole then 5/16 ending with 7/16 hole. I then used a 1/4 NPT tap. In the first picture you can see I put a hose in the water neck with a vacuum taped to it. This keeps the shavings from falling into the WP. Tomorrow I will get a hose hooked up and we are one step closer.

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

Cool.. The late model WPs don't have that nice area for drilling any longer.

I'm thinking of going this route:

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Par...g_LSI-tee.html