Not your usual LS1/T56 Bmw
07-17-2011, 09:47 AM
#41
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09-12-2011, 08:41 PM
#44
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No updates because there's not much to update...
Having fun (NOT) cleaning the underbody still, not hurrying because I have to wait on some parts to arrive to keep going after that anyway. (Parts I should of had by now but... should be soon hopefully)
Have not bought a drivetrain yet, did some thinking, changed ideas alot... I think I'm back on the right track with what setup I want (almost...) sadly LS motors aren't very easy to find up in Canada.
Still have some thinking to do on the transmission side... I have some cool ideas but, will have to make them reality one day!
I should get this thing kicked in quite soon, should get my trailer in a few weeks and this will help with the build-up. All I can say is you won't be disapointed with the result, so stay tuned!
Having fun (NOT) cleaning the underbody still, not hurrying because I have to wait on some parts to arrive to keep going after that anyway. (Parts I should of had by now but... should be soon hopefully)
Have not bought a drivetrain yet, did some thinking, changed ideas alot... I think I'm back on the right track with what setup I want (almost...) sadly LS motors aren't very easy to find up in Canada.
Still have some thinking to do on the transmission side... I have some cool ideas but, will have to make them reality one day!
I should get this thing kicked in quite soon, should get my trailer in a few weeks and this will help with the build-up. All I can say is you won't be disapointed with the result, so stay tuned!
09-25-2011, 10:39 AM
#46
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I did some door skinning at the shop yesterday, got to love the plasma cutter! I did gathered some numbers!
Only had time to do the front doors but here is what I came up with :
Stock empty door (metal shell) = 37lbs
After I removed the upper part (to make it like coupe doors) and only kept the door skins + enough material to keep mirrors and the central bar = 22lbs
That door is still very rigid, I will try to remove the center bar and see how it still holds up, and I have some spots to finalize better than I did... there's probably another 3-4lbs per door I can take off without hurting it's rigidity! That's almost 40lbs from just gutting the front doors, not counting all the windows, latches stuff that got removed!!!
I don't think I'll be able to remove that much for the rear's tho, I will probably keep the window frame to bolt lexan on but I'm not sure yet... on the front that was probably the heaviest peace I got out, it's STOUT.
Only had time to do the front doors but here is what I came up with :
Stock empty door (metal shell) = 37lbs
After I removed the upper part (to make it like coupe doors) and only kept the door skins + enough material to keep mirrors and the central bar = 22lbs
That door is still very rigid, I will try to remove the center bar and see how it still holds up, and I have some spots to finalize better than I did... there's probably another 3-4lbs per door I can take off without hurting it's rigidity! That's almost 40lbs from just gutting the front doors, not counting all the windows, latches stuff that got removed!!!
I don't think I'll be able to remove that much for the rear's tho, I will probably keep the window frame to bolt lexan on but I'm not sure yet... on the front that was probably the heaviest peace I got out, it's STOUT.
10-06-2011, 09:48 PM
#47
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Finally found a motor... I was starting to think it was impossible up in here!
2010 L92, complete with harness and pcm... for a price I couldn't refuse! I have to switch the intake, probably the oil pan to we will see and play around with front accessories then I will be good to go!
2010 L92, complete with harness and pcm... for a price I couldn't refuse! I have to switch the intake, probably the oil pan to we will see and play around with front accessories then I will be good to go!
10-12-2011, 08:32 PM
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A 4 speed dogbox, probably a G-force GF4A and I have a few ideas to use a custom sequential shifter (since theres no side shifters that will ever fit anyway) would be great if I can get it done!
10-13-2011, 05:29 AM
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Around Montreal, frenchie land... the trailer was about 10grand with the taxes and everything. 24' + 3' V-nose.
10-26-2011, 10:09 PM
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A little stop at Lachute Performance where Karim always has great stuff!
Back on wheels so I can trailer it... massive wheelie mode because the JRZ in the back are adjusted to low and the front has OEM struts/springs... soon to be fixed!
Back on wheels so I can trailer it... massive wheelie mode because the JRZ in the back are adjusted to low and the front has OEM struts/springs... soon to be fixed!
10-26-2011, 10:16 PM
#55
10-27-2011, 01:31 AM
#56
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Looks good!, T101 is the way to go and have built with your ratios, the last 2 we bought from Roush Yates, let me know I have a few contacts there. Do you happen to know Carl Nadeau?, races in Canada.
10-27-2011, 05:19 AM
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I do know who he is, he has on or two lsx E36... one for racing and one for drifting if I remember correctly.
10-31-2011, 05:14 PM
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I am highly considering a front motor plate mount and was wondering about something... I saw a few pictures but not much detailed information. What guys do with the front cover and/or water pump when mounting an engine that way. I saw one who seemed to use water pump bolts (water pump bolting over the mounting plate). I'd like some opinions or good read on the subject please guys!
10-31-2011, 08:33 PM
#59
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Yeah, New Age Hotrods built his drift car, pics on here nahrods.com. They built my e36 and there working on e46 now developing it. Do you know what ratios you want?, There are two of my friends that might have one. What are you looking to spend?
11-01-2011, 12:58 PM
#60
If you haven't bought a clutch setup yet..... I would recommend the Quartermaster 7.25" triple disc setup. 14lbs complete. Replacement discs are cheap too. I have one behind a 438ci ARE dry sump setup with GForce GSR dog box and 3.27 gears in an 8.8" Cobra IRS diff in a race car RX-7. 2470lbs with 7 gallons of gas. no driver
Upshifts are a simple light lift on the throttle and it pretty much falls right into gear. Super fast shifting. Downshifts are similar with slower turns from fast speeds requiring the use of a clutch so you don't lock up the rear wheels.
I'm selling a Dailey billet dry sump setup in the classifieds. I would highly suggest it for a serious road race car.
Upshifts are a simple light lift on the throttle and it pretty much falls right into gear. Super fast shifting. Downshifts are similar with slower turns from fast speeds requiring the use of a clutch so you don't lock up the rear wheels.
I'm selling a Dailey billet dry sump setup in the classifieds. I would highly suggest it for a serious road race car.