Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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going to the dark side *engine is in*

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Old 06-12-2012, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 97badass
Damn right I can't, and btw Jason the seal had a small tear in it from installing the pulley, so it would have leaked anyways.
I'm happy to hear that's all it was. Glad you don't have to pull it back out. Hey....if this was an LT1...you'd have to drop the oil pan to remove the timing cover.

Oh...and pull that ignition thing-a-ma-bob we have on the front of ours behind the water pump....what are they called again? LOL
Old 06-12-2012, 10:13 PM
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Pain in the ***.. Lol..

Looks like work is gettin done..more on here posting than on the car..
Old 06-13-2012, 12:10 AM
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Haha can't work on it as much as I would like too, working 6 days a week, remodeling a house, wife is taking evening classes, and I have a 2 year old. Car comes last.
Old 06-15-2012, 01:46 AM
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Quick question for you guys, on my tune should I go sd or maf? If I go speed density I can fab up a pretty nice intake, if I. Go maf its just a normal. Setup.
Old 06-15-2012, 12:46 PM
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Speed Density is a little more touchier when it comes to the weather..me personally if you drive it alot go MAF.
Old 06-15-2012, 01:28 PM
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Alright i will see what I can design with a maf sensor.

Parts came in again, now I'm on the downhill slide and need to get my harness hooked up, I will take pics of that while I'm doing it. that engine bay looks too good to have wires showing in it. So a full wire tuck is progress.
Old 06-16-2012, 06:50 PM
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A little excitement today, a yellow jacket landed on the hood and I smacked it with the radiator hose I was about to install... Bad idea... About 20 of them came out.
Rocker arms, pushrods, valve covers, radiator and ac condenser in now I need to install the ac compressor and run the wires! Pics coming
Old 06-17-2012, 10:37 PM
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I managed to get the backlash set on my rearend today so it should be going in soon and I have been working on the wiring harness and waiting on my t-50 plus torx to do my bellhousing.
Old 07-16-2012, 02:43 PM
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I'm still keeping up with your thread...just staying busy lately. Hope those bees didn't get ya.
Old 07-16-2012, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 93Z2871805
ls3's are $700 complete. there are better options than the ms3, check out eps. are the 98 heads perimeter or center bolt (241s or 243s?)? early motor rod bolts aren't great, pre- 04 (iirc) rods are non-floating pins. LS6 intake is good.
WhereTF have ls3s for 700?!
I wil go pick up ****** 6 right now.
LOl!
Ms3 is a proven cam. It works, usually one floating fs in classi.
I disagree about the older rod bolts. I have spun to 7000 on the old rods and bolts.
If anything more damage is caused by improper installation of arp or other rod bolts.
Use of stretch gage is the correct method to install rod bolts.
any other method is hit or miss.
Old 07-29-2012, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by NemeSS
WhereTF have ls3s for 700?!
I wil go pick up ****** 6 right now.
LOl!
I was referring to the heads (I bought mine $734 for a complete set BNIB shipped to my door, they have since come down in price).

Originally Posted by NemeSS
Ms3 is a proven cam. It works, usually one floating fs in classi.
I never said it was a bad grind, just that there's more to be had from a custom cam.

Originally Posted by NemeSS
I disagree about the older rod bolts. I have spun to 7000 on the old rods and bolts.
I'm happy to hear that you've had luck with them, I just wont take the chance.

Originally Posted by NemeSS
If anything more damage is caused by improper installation of arp or other rod bolts.
Use of stretch gage is the correct method to install rod bolts.
any other method is hit or miss.
Correct, stretch is the most accurate method, but torque spec has worked just fine for years.
Old 07-31-2012, 05:36 PM
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Bolt stretch or Torque Spec method have worked fine for years when it comes to installing the connecting rods onto the crank, but for correct rod bolt installation:

Press old out...press new in....check big end for roundness/I.D. Resize if needed.

I wouldn't have commented except the rod bolt installation mentioned was concerning putting aftermarket bolts into the stock rods. I've read several threads about people just bolting them in without even removing the rods. From what I've gathered...it seems to work out better with the Katechs, but still not correct...and I don't think I'd chance it.
Old 07-31-2012, 05:37 PM
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Any thread updates 97badass?
Old 08-05-2012, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 93Z2871805
Good stuff dude, when're you looking to fire it up?
About 28 more pages from now.
Old 08-09-2012, 03:10 PM
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ive been busy getting stuff ready for hunting season instead of working on the car (a.c. is a lot better than 110*)
i just put another order into scoggin dickey yesterday. im putting the transmission in the car this weekend since i should have it ready to go in tonight.
hell of a first post vaklav now **** off. when you pay for my stuff then and only then can you bitch about how long it takes me.
Old 08-09-2012, 06:00 PM
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I want to say I saw your car on my way back from just NE of Durham ks picking up some parts for my truck...unless theres another white TA without a front end with nose up in the air out by hillsboro
Old 08-09-2012, 08:07 PM
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Yep thats it, I bet you bought the parts from troy hett.
Old 08-10-2012, 03:58 PM
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Dont remember his name but super nice guy with lots of land and plenty of cars out there.
Old 08-11-2012, 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by 1961ba427
Any thread updates 97badass?
Transmission is home from the shop and going in sunday. Tomorrow is a pretty busy day for me, checking my trail cameras in the morning, going to get my wifes bow set up, letting her sight it in, hanging cameras in new spots, then a charity run in the evening.
Old 08-19-2012, 11:55 PM
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Well the transmission is in, next is the front suspension... Get the front end back on the ground so I can do the rearend. It finally feels like I'm making progress on it instead of going backwards.


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