1984 Chevy C-10 5.3 w/ 4L60e
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Well I searched and looked but the other threads are pretty old for those that have done a conversion like mine. So...
The intro - 1984 Chevy C10 Scottsdale 2wd. Grandfather's old farm truck in Missouri. Loved it, good body, little rust. 305 w/ th350c. I get it, drive to Colorado. Smoked pretty bad, no compression (enough to drive from Missouri to Colorado). Idea - new engine!
Where I stand - 5.3 from a 2001 Yukon w/ 4L60E transmission is in place. I have the pedal assembly as well. Transmission seemed to fit like a glove, but alas it doesn't. So movement/drilling is needed. But it is not exactly "in line" with the drive shaft. Ideas for what to do? What I mean is I haven't moved/drilled yet but just sitting there it isn't in line with the drive shaft, there is a bit of an angle now that it'll be on. Has anyone else seen this/fixed this?
Once that is fixed I send off the ECM/PCM to get flashed, figure out the fuel system and the wiring. Then hooking up the transmission to the column shifter. Any ideas on hooking up the tranny to the column shifter? (just popped in my head).
Anyway, pics to come tomorrow. But thought I'd post tonight as I can't find the solution. I used the dirty dingo mounts. They worked, but these are the "adjustable" ones and while they are installed I can't really adjust them. So that's something else I'll be working on.
The intro - 1984 Chevy C10 Scottsdale 2wd. Grandfather's old farm truck in Missouri. Loved it, good body, little rust. 305 w/ th350c. I get it, drive to Colorado. Smoked pretty bad, no compression (enough to drive from Missouri to Colorado). Idea - new engine!
Where I stand - 5.3 from a 2001 Yukon w/ 4L60E transmission is in place. I have the pedal assembly as well. Transmission seemed to fit like a glove, but alas it doesn't. So movement/drilling is needed. But it is not exactly "in line" with the drive shaft. Ideas for what to do? What I mean is I haven't moved/drilled yet but just sitting there it isn't in line with the drive shaft, there is a bit of an angle now that it'll be on. Has anyone else seen this/fixed this?
Once that is fixed I send off the ECM/PCM to get flashed, figure out the fuel system and the wiring. Then hooking up the transmission to the column shifter. Any ideas on hooking up the tranny to the column shifter? (just popped in my head).
Anyway, pics to come tomorrow. But thought I'd post tonight as I can't find the solution. I used the dirty dingo mounts. They worked, but these are the "adjustable" ones and while they are installed I can't really adjust them. So that's something else I'll be working on.
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I'm not really sure how to put pictures into this site. But I've got the hood installed again, grille in, bumper on. Then I readjusted the hood...and forgot to install the hood release. So, with a swivel I unbolted the latch and am working to reinstall it properly.
I have the fuel pump, walbro 392 in line, on the way as well is a cold air intake from Spectrum. I bought a battery tray for the driver side. I'm looking for someone in the area to do the wiring harness and PCM flash. I'd strip it myself but I'm color blind and I will screw it up.
Headers - so....I've heard Schoenfeld will fit my year (1984 C-10) but I'm not 100%. Anyone have other luck? Of course I haven't tried the stock manifolds yet either.
Power steering hooked right up without difficulty. I need to get underneath and hook up the drive shaft. But the cross member needs to get moved back. So I'm thinking drill some holes and move it back. Anyone else?
Oh, and when you see pictures (whenever I figure it out), don't laugh too hard. This is an old farm truck and my first swap. I'm happy with it! No mods to the engine though, just a stock 5.3 from a 2000 Yukon. I'm not too smart with figuring out how to do a cam, lifters, etc. But I figure it'll get better gas mileage then the old 305 with a TH350C mated to it.
I have the fuel pump, walbro 392 in line, on the way as well is a cold air intake from Spectrum. I bought a battery tray for the driver side. I'm looking for someone in the area to do the wiring harness and PCM flash. I'd strip it myself but I'm color blind and I will screw it up.
Headers - so....I've heard Schoenfeld will fit my year (1984 C-10) but I'm not 100%. Anyone have other luck? Of course I haven't tried the stock manifolds yet either.
Power steering hooked right up without difficulty. I need to get underneath and hook up the drive shaft. But the cross member needs to get moved back. So I'm thinking drill some holes and move it back. Anyone else?
Oh, and when you see pictures (whenever I figure it out), don't laugh too hard. This is an old farm truck and my first swap. I'm happy with it! No mods to the engine though, just a stock 5.3 from a 2000 Yukon. I'm not too smart with figuring out how to do a cam, lifters, etc. But I figure it'll get better gas mileage then the old 305 with a TH350C mated to it.
Last edited by Constant13; 12-10-2011 at 10:36 PM.
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hello to all. i have completed the swap and i am completely satisfied. im a true bow tie fan and ive tried just about every sbc engine. performance 350's have good power:some what thristy. 383:great torque:very thirsty. my favorite 406: hard to imagine gm never intended for this engine as a saturday night special:dont build one if fuel economy is desired. 5.3/4l60e is the new 327. good power:gas friendly.
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all lsx swaps have minor issues due to the fact gm placed these modern marvels in newer vehicles. some things to note in the lsx swap are make sure engine adapter plates good ones. i wont mention what plates i used but it was an effort just to mount the motor. once the 5.3 was mounted i found out the driver side header interferred with the frame rails. this was due to the adapter plates placement of the engine. this will also effect your drive shaft length. ive heard good things about carshop and dirty dingo plates. i mounted my fuel pump in the tank. 87 c10 had tbi pump/sending unit. it was easy to mount the efi(ep381) pump to the sending unit. also make sure you have a good harness from a good vendor. if the engine harness sucks, the swap will be a nightmare. pm me if you all have any more questions. look at my albums.
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I used Dirty Dingo mounts. Need different exhaust manifolds or headers. Though I haven't 100% tried the stock ones yet with the dirty dingo mounts. Still looking; I heard some folks had good use with stock Camaro manifolds.
Mark everything, so far so good with that. Take it in steps, not all at once as it's overwhelming. I'm using a Walbro 255 w/ kit. Got it for about $100 on amazon. I'm not doing this for performance so I'll be using a clutch/fan instead. I don't know how to really do wiring, doesn't help that I'm color blind so I'm having a local shop do it.
So yeah, still learning and still working on it.
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Be prepared for unexpected expenses! I'm still working it. I found that I need to move the transmission crossmember back. Also should've taken the wiring harness off prior to installing it into the engine bay. Power steering fit fine, A/C gotta take off and move somewhere else.
I used Dirty Dingo mounts. Need different exhaust manifolds or headers. Though I haven't 100% tried the stock ones yet with the dirty dingo mounts. Still looking; I heard some folks had good use with stock Camaro manifolds.
Mark everything, so far so good with that. Take it in steps, not all at once as it's overwhelming. I'm using a Walbro 255 w/ kit. Got it for about $100 on amazon. I'm not doing this for performance so I'll be using a clutch/fan instead. I don't know how to really do wiring, doesn't help that I'm color blind so I'm having a local shop do it.
So yeah, still learning and still working on it.
I used Dirty Dingo mounts. Need different exhaust manifolds or headers. Though I haven't 100% tried the stock ones yet with the dirty dingo mounts. Still looking; I heard some folks had good use with stock Camaro manifolds.
Mark everything, so far so good with that. Take it in steps, not all at once as it's overwhelming. I'm using a Walbro 255 w/ kit. Got it for about $100 on amazon. I'm not doing this for performance so I'll be using a clutch/fan instead. I don't know how to really do wiring, doesn't help that I'm color blind so I'm having a local shop do it.
So yeah, still learning and still working on it.
I'm runnin an inline Walbro I think 255/vette return filter setup also. I will try and get some pics up tonight and maybe start a in depth build thread. But I have been workin on the truck ALOT cause I'm down to no vehs besides my work truck! So I gotta get mine done now. I'm about balz deep in my swap and should be gettin ready to try and fire soon so don't hesitate to ask questions or for pics. Atleast from me anyways....lots of deaf ears around here so I will do what I can to help keep another ol Chevy alive.
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I used the Dirty Dingo plates on my 98 fbody/th350 and stock manifolds and mine went right in and slides alllll over the place. Are you sure the bolts are loose or somethin is not touchin?? I didnt think you have to move or re drill the cross member with the DD plates.
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I did mine in an 87 silverado also. I used the Ebay adapter plates and bought some used headers off Ebay. They kinda look like Hooker Headers except they are not stamped. A guy i just met did his in an 84 and he said he used the 88-98 OBS schoenfeld headers. Has an ASA cam and his is carbed sounds wicked. He said minimal clearance issues with his. I had to notch the frame and driver side control arm
mine
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uFB84YwYr94
his
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DyjE1JvJJT8
mine
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uFB84YwYr94
his
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DyjE1JvJJT8
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I hope this don't sound like a dumb question but is it still lifted by the cherry picker a little and a floor jack under the trans? It has to be "level" like where the trans and engine are meant to go. Make sure your trans is not pitched up or down or hitting the cross member.
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After a visit to the ER and some other issues I crawled under my truck again. And low and behold the motor mount bolt isn't in the right place. In other words the bolt is sitting on top of the mount. So, no sliding of the engine with the adapter plates and generally this sucks moment. So now I'm going to be working on that and correcting my stupidity. I think once that problem is solved then there won't be an issue. I also recommend, because I didn't do it or read it anywhere, or think about it, is remove the wiring harness before installing the engine/transmission. What a pain to get off. I have three remaining, all three on the transmission.
I have the stock alternator. I'm not doing much on this as far as mods, just wanting fuel injection and so far so good. I'm learning a lot. Once I'm done I'll do a full write up.
I have the stock alternator. I'm not doing much on this as far as mods, just wanting fuel injection and so far so good. I'm learning a lot. Once I'm done I'll do a full write up.
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So I got the wiring harness off, broke the connections that have glue in them (shifter area). The other one I squeezed and it popped off. It's now off to Concept Customs to get redone and have the PCM tuned. http://www.concept-customs.com/ He makes it apparently to be four wires to hook up with a fuse box to boot!
They are local here in Colorado Springs.
On to the mounting issues. So I got the mounting bolts on properly now, hooray! But I still don't have the ability to slide the engine/tranny. It's already as far forward as it can go! Can I get a picture from someone on how there dingo mounts are on? I know I didn't install them backwards (I called and made sure!). So I'm going to take a mental break from that and work on the wiring instead. I didn't pre-mark when I disconnected everything so I need to find the ignition wire, and figure out how to hook it up once I get the new fuse box back.
Again, how do I do pictures, I'd be glad to share. And if anyone is in the Colorado Springs area feel free to PM me if you want to see what I've done wrong before you start yours! But I'm almost done, I think by end of January it should be running!
They are local here in Colorado Springs.
On to the mounting issues. So I got the mounting bolts on properly now, hooray! But I still don't have the ability to slide the engine/tranny. It's already as far forward as it can go! Can I get a picture from someone on how there dingo mounts are on? I know I didn't install them backwards (I called and made sure!). So I'm going to take a mental break from that and work on the wiring instead. I didn't pre-mark when I disconnected everything so I need to find the ignition wire, and figure out how to hook it up once I get the new fuse box back.
Again, how do I do pictures, I'd be glad to share. And if anyone is in the Colorado Springs area feel free to PM me if you want to see what I've done wrong before you start yours! But I'm almost done, I think by end of January it should be running!
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did the guy the put the 88-98 OBS schoenfeld headers on his 84 c10 have any clearance issues??? I have the truck exhaust manifolds but from what im seeing they will have some clearance issues... I also thought about buying some f-body exhaust manifolds...
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I got the wiring harness back and ECM. Shane, the owner, is going to help me put it together once I have the rest completed. I'm ripping out the extra/useless wires. Nervous about it but he's gonna help me since I'm color blind and all. I'm getting behind in this project but I'm thinking another month or two and it'll be moving out of the garage. I'm still not sure how to put pictures on the site. And I don't know about headers.