Need G-body frame notch pics
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Need G-body frame notch pics
Could someone please post pics showing where they notched the frame on a g-Body car for the A/C compressor & for the stock LS1 oil pan to clear. Thanks!
Last edited by veltboy618; 11-18-2011 at 04:26 AM.
#2
Do you have access to a truck oil pan, one can be had for pretty cheap, or a retro one, i think those are around $250 though, with the truck one you shouldnt have an issue...
or you will have to notch the pan, I wouldnt notch the frame for the oil pan, but anyhow.. my bro and I had to notch the frame a little in a friends cutlass for the ac, but I dont know if I have any picts, I will check when i get home, we notched it and then boxed it in, although prob didnt have to box it as only a very small section was cut out to clear the pulley and belt...
I dont know what your budget is, but you can also relocate the ac to the top using a bracket from kwik performance...
or you will have to notch the pan, I wouldnt notch the frame for the oil pan, but anyhow.. my bro and I had to notch the frame a little in a friends cutlass for the ac, but I dont know if I have any picts, I will check when i get home, we notched it and then boxed it in, although prob didnt have to box it as only a very small section was cut out to clear the pulley and belt...
I dont know what your budget is, but you can also relocate the ac to the top using a bracket from kwik performance...
#4
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Do you have access to a truck oil pan, one can be had for pretty cheap, or a retro one, i think those are around $250 though, with the truck one you shouldnt have an issue...
or you will have to notch the pan, I wouldnt notch the frame for the oil pan, but anyhow.. my bro and I had to notch the frame a little in a friends cutlass for the ac, but I dont know if I have any picts, I will check when i get home, we notched it and then boxed it in, although prob didnt have to box it as only a very small section was cut out to clear the pulley and belt...
I dont know what your budget is, but you can also relocate the ac to the top using a bracket from kwik performance...
or you will have to notch the pan, I wouldnt notch the frame for the oil pan, but anyhow.. my bro and I had to notch the frame a little in a friends cutlass for the ac, but I dont know if I have any picts, I will check when i get home, we notched it and then boxed it in, although prob didnt have to box it as only a very small section was cut out to clear the pulley and belt...
I dont know what your budget is, but you can also relocate the ac to the top using a bracket from kwik performance...
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#9
cant find the ones i took on my computer, but have you sat the motor in yet? cause you could take the compressor off, sit the motor in place and marked the frame where you need to notch it, then just notch it out.. the main area that needs clearance is around the pulley, to get the belt on and off and to clearance for little movement
#11
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From what I've read the only pans that clear and are equal or above the crossmember without notching is the Holley and Mast pan. I'll be finding out in a few weeks how true this is with the holley
#13
TECH Enthusiast
the pic by mcss is about how I cut mine back in 02' for F-body pan. I also notched & reboxed one spot by the idler arm & cut 1 small notch in crossmember for factory location ac, Which is now a sanden w BRP mount.
#15
truck pan
I just happened to click on this post and could not believe it when i read that my old truck pan could be the solution to a problem. i am putting a 5.3 in my 55 Belair and had to get an LH8 pan and have the truck one laying on the driveway. I was going to haul it to the junkyard but will make anyone who needs it a great deal, $65 including shipping. Just pm me-Bill
#16
I notched mine 10" wide and right at 2" deep. I am running a 5.3 with F-body oil pan. Basically took a metal cutting hole saw at both ends, and then cut the length out between the holes at the ends with a metal cutting sawzall.