This car was a stick so for me the neutral safety switch is located on the clutch pedal assembly.

 

Very nice build. Doing roughly the same thing with my 94, however it is blatantly obvious your budget is quite higher than mine. I'm jealous of the HP EFI set up, I just didn't have that kind of money to spend so I had to do the 4 wire conversion and I'll be running my own gauges.
Very jealous man, keep it up.

 

I planned it out from the beginning that I would be going with the HP and saved money on things like the GM PCM, wiring harness, MAF to help offset it as well as selling off parts from the car I didn't need like airbags.

 

This is a great plan, I did not plan for the HP EFI, and actually bought a harness, and ECM, spent hours tearing the harness apart and separating it wire by wire, it was a split second decision to buy the HP EFI, and with the coils it set the project back becuase it was 2k that i didnt plan for, BUT...

It is worth it i think. Let us know how much you like it.

keep up the great work.

 

I definitely think it's worth it. I have a few friends locally that use it and are really happy with it. It is a decent chunk of change but it can handle pretty much any set up/power level you want to go with down the road. I looked at it as something I won't have to upgrade again or not for a very long time.

 

Does the Holley HP efi come with software for your laptop or a hand held tuner to make your adjustments?

 

Laptop, and yes, or you can get their LCD screen dealio that mounts in the car, but from what im told, its pretty small and is "ok" for minor changes, but if you are getting down and dirty, use the laptop.

Of course, no real world experience, just what ive read..

 

Got the tires mounted today. I'm glad I waited to get them mounted and put under the car instead of just having the 99 rear end cut down 1.5" like a stock 94 housing. I can take out a little over 2" and still have 1/2" clearance between the inside of the tire and the wheel well. I will have to roll the fender lips (was hoping to avoid it) because they can tuck up in the rear fender another 1.5" and will hit the edge and cut the tire.

 

Badass build man. I love the SN95 dash with those gauges. Are you going to do any kind of frame connectors?

 

Thanks. It has some subframes on it already from the previous owner. It will be getting a full cage later this year, welded torque boxes and I might go through floor subframes and remove the ones it came with but haven't decided yet.

 

Did you notice that your motor sits a little more to the passenger side? I have an LS1 block heads sitting on a QA-1 modular subframe(K-Member) and it sits 2.25" inches to the right. It could be that the K member itself bolts in more to the left to offset this? not sure just yet, I measured the 5.0 in my car and it is to the right if you measure the distance from shock tower to valve cover. Also, did you have to elongate the holes slightly on the motor mounts to bolt up to LS block?

 

I haven't measured anything but it would make sense if it was slightly towards the passenger side as you have the steering linkage on the driver side. I do know it can't go any other way the transmission is dead center in the tunnel and there is very little space around the shifter linkage so the engine could not be moved towards the driver side without causing issues.

No I have the UPR adapter plate which bolt to the 4.6 motor mount and to the block. You do have to open up the holes if you are bolting a stock 4.6 mount to an aluminum LS block.

 

It's a mystery I haven't quite figured out yet, the offset. I did order the UPR adaptor plates, should be here any day, 2 bolts only doesn't seem like a good idea. Didn't quite understand the part about your rear axle? It is from a `99 or you're using a `94-98? What is the width and offset of those rear wheels?

 

Up to 98 the rear axle housing is the same size, in 94 they switched to disk brakes and added ABS as an option so the axles were wider. In 99 the housing was widened 1.5" to accommodate the wider body. 3/4" per side is hard to notice when the stock wheels are on there since they sit inside the fender from the factory. Once I test fitted the 10" wheels I knew there was a problem. If I put that rear end in the car the tires would have sat 1" outside of the fender. The wheels are 15x10, 6.5" BS which will fit from 94-04 but only if you have the correct width axle in your car. I should have checked it early on as my car is an original V6 car that didn't come with ABS and the rear end was an ABS rear end.

 

Interesting. Been reading this thread for a couple weeks, never did the math.

LS = 92?

 

Yep.

 

[I] am aware of the difference between `94-`98 and `99 +, wasn't sure what you were saying in relation to your car. So, with a `94 width axle housing the 15x10's will work? and what did you say the offset was?

 

`94-98 housing uses 12mm control arm bolts and `99+ uses 14mm as well, if i am not mistaken.

 

A 15x10 with a 6.5" BS will fit all 94-04's assuming it has the correct rear end in it. Mine had a wider rear end thus it wouldn't fit and needing to shorten it to the correct width.

Yes 79-98 all use 12mm bolts on the lowers and in 99 they went to 14mm. I'm drilling mine all out to 9/16.

 

I bought a set of TM control arms and found out they were for 99+ and used 9/16" hardware fine thread nylock nuts from all places OSH. As I recall it wasn't all that easy to drill out the body side holes with everything in the way.