dlabooda

iTrader: (2)

I am using the underhood harness from an LS1 Camaro in my Chevelle and I am in the process of getting it hooked up. It looks like the Camaro used one 15 amp fuse for all 8 injectors and both coil packs. Is that too much for the circuit? The biggest issue I am struggling with is how to combine all 10 of those wires into one that goes into the fuse panel. I was thinking I could use a large 10 gauge crimp connector and put all of the pink wires in one end and then have a single one going to the fuse panel out of the other end. Will this work?

User-c3

I have an interior harness from a 98 Trans am that may help you out with the rest of the wiring. If interested send me a PM.

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

The preferred method of doing what you are trying to do is to SOLDER all of the wires together along with a single 10-12 gauge single wire to your fuse box, make sure you use heat shrink tubing on all of the soldered connections, with the crimp style you will have electrical problems immediately or in the near future.

dlabooda

iTrader: (2)

What's wrong with crimp connectors? I figured I would have to solder that bundle of wires but are the crimp connectors ok for splicing single wires? I cut the the plug off of the coil pack harness to make it a part of the main harness and crimped them together. Will that hold up since I wrapped it in electrical tape?

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

Crimp connectors are ok for short term fixes, but they are susceptible to the elements (corrosion and improper crimps or crimp tools) at the very least you want to use heat shrink tubing on those connectors and even soldered connections. The crimp connectors and electrical tape will have you chasing electrical gremlins in the near future, a properly soldered connection with heat shrink tubing is a permanent fix.

psiconversion

iTrader: (5)

You can buy environmentally sealed crimp connectors similar to those used by GM in their factory harnesses. Be wary of solder joints in wiring harnesses. The solder joint is inherently brittle and can fail over time due to vibration. Not saying you cant do it, but you might want to strain relief the joint. Just my 2 cents.

Jon
PSI

FastKat

iTrader: (10)

I had to address a similar problem. I used one set of connections to merge the 8 wires down to 4 wires, then a second set of connections to take the 4 wires down to 2 wires, and then the 2 wires into the fuse block. Although I made more connections than absolutely necessary, I liked the way the wires fit when twisted together - I think I got a pretty good mechanical connection. I also increased the wire gauge as I consolidated wires.

Make sure you solder them together and if available, use an adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing. This will keep out air and moisture, and add strength and durability to the soldered area. You don't want to be digging through this harness looking for bad connections after everything is in your vehicle!

If you don't know how to solder, look at some youtube videos and then practice. It's important to get a hot enough iron - I like the Weller SP40L. Give it some time to heat up, heat the wire with the iron, and then push the solder into the wire. It's really not hard - practice on some scrap wire before you try it on your project. Make sure the wire is freshly stripped and clean.

dlabooda

iTrader: (2)

What kind of connectors did you use to consolidate the wires? I think I will probably just leave the simple crimp connectors on the coil packs for now because I just want to get the darn thing running. I can solder the wires together later when I go back and add other underhood wires to the harness.

I was surprised to see all of the injectors and coils powered off of one 15 amp fuse and a rather small 18 gauge wire. It looks like certain Camaros had fuses in the INJ-1 and INJ-2 spots, unlike my harness. Would it be worth it to add the wiring and have a fuse for either side?