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67 Chevelle LS1 T56 Build

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Old 01-10-2012, 05:21 AM
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Default 67 Chevelle LS1 T56 Build

Well I am ready to start swapping in a 2004 LS1 from a GTO and a 99 T56 into one of my '67 chevelles. I am at the stage where I need to start ordering parts for the conversion.

Goals: Budget around $2,000 (flexible), Do not want to cut tunnel, but will use BFH if needed, Would like to use factory console, would like to complete by May timeframe.

I will start posting pictures of my bodywork to show the build so far.
Old 01-10-2012, 07:42 AM
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You will have to cut the tunnel! You will need an adjustable shifter to make it work with your stock consol. A Viper trans shifter are closer to the stock location because it is locater a few inches forward, compaired to the stock T-56 Camero/Firebird whick is located at the very rear of the tranny.
Old 01-10-2012, 08:54 AM
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What parts do you already have? If you don't want to cut then you'll have to ditch the T56 and go with a different trans. I think keisler makes one that will fit.
Old 01-10-2012, 12:31 PM
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I already have the engine and the t56, but I have not bought an oil pan yet. I am hoping that the new cast A-body pan coming out from S&P in February will allow me to set the engine low enough to avoid cutting the tunnel too much. I realize that I may have to dent a few places and cut near the shifter, but just trying to avoid lifting the tunnel upward so that the carpet no longer fits.

I don't have engine mount plates or complete accessories yet. The engine does have the water pump and some tensioners and brackets on it. Here are a few pictures.

2004 LS1 from GTO


Removing the sbc 350 and t10 4 speed.


Old 01-10-2012, 12:41 PM
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Here are some pictures of the car over the past couple of years.

I replaced both quarters with 80%. Butt-welded and turned out real nice.




Here is a shot coming home from the media blaster. I went ahead and had them spray it in epoxy and shoot the underside with Raptor Lining.

Old 01-10-2012, 04:31 PM
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Cool! Can't wait to see more!
Old 01-10-2012, 06:00 PM
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Sweet!!! Where do I find out more about this S&P oil pan?
Old 01-10-2012, 06:09 PM
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Rucumn - I will be interested to see what details you have on getting the T56 to fit. I am also trying to not cut my trans tunnel. You can see some details on my build page. It really does seem possible.

I also would be interested in info about the S&P pan, as I am about to purchase a Champ/Autokraft one within the next couple weeks. If the S&P looks good, I will need to consider it instead.

Troy
Old 01-11-2012, 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by LS2GS
Sweet!!! Where do I find out more about this S&P oil pan?
Originally Posted by 71Fakes
I also would be interested in info about the S&P pan, as I am about to purchase a Champ/Autokraft one within the next couple weeks. If the S&P looks good, I will need to consider it instead.

Troy
Thanks for the feedback guys. All I know about the new cast S&P pan is what Mark from S&P told me on the phone last week. I was inquiring about the modified F-body pan that they offer and he began to tell me that if I could wait until early February their new cast A-body pan would be available. He mentioned that they are actually casting 4 new pans - A-body, F-body, G-body, ???... not sure on the 4th pan.

I asked him if the pan would fit better than others on the market in the A-body and not sacrifice quite the oil capacity that the modified pans do. He assured me that the pan is superior to others on the market and would be around $400.

I need to call him back and see if he could offer more details. I wasn't quite ready for the pan last week, but I am close now.
Old 01-11-2012, 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by 71Fakes
Rucumn - I will be interested to see what details you have on getting the T56 to fit. I am also trying to not cut my trans tunnel. You can see some details on my build page. It really does seem possible.

Troy
71Flakes, I had followed your build and liked your approach to see if the t56 could fit without cutting the tunnel. I will follow a similar method of measuring. It is hard when you don't have all the parts such as accessories, headers, pan. Looking at pictures and posts of others builds gives me a better idea of what works and how much clearance there is to play with, but still tough without the actual parts on the car.

Are you going to run the alternator down low or will you end up putting it up high on the driver side with the corvette brackets?
Old 01-11-2012, 06:10 AM
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Here are a couple more pictures of the car. It has been almost 2 years since I had the car blasted and epoxied and I immediately did the filler work and 2 block sanding passes at that time. I then sprayed the jams and reassembled the car. Since that time I have moved to another state and haven't worked much on the car until now.



In the new shop as it sits now.
Old 01-11-2012, 08:17 AM
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looks great . where do you plan on mounting your ecm ?.
Old 01-11-2012, 05:09 PM
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Rucumn - I will relocate the alternator, but not sure exactly where yet.

Troy
Old 01-11-2012, 06:21 PM
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John 67 - since I will likely convert one of the two stock harnesses I have I will have to see where I am forced to mount the ecm. I am thinking it will be on the driver inner fender and if I have enough wire I might mount it up under the fender on the firewall on that side.

Do you have any suggestions?
Old 01-11-2012, 06:30 PM
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I looks like it is possible to mount the LS1 T56 in the A-body without major surgery to the tunnel. I know I had seen pictures of it before and I finally found the document on S&P's website. I hope the dimensions for the '67 chevelle are similar to the 70 chevelle. I have both years out in the shop, so I will check when I get time.

http://www.hotrodlane.cc/PDFFILES/LS...toryscreen.pdf

They had to cut off the boss (ear) on the driver side and they had to replace the Reverse Lock Out with a special O-ringed plug.

The document had pretty good pictures and instructions.
Old 01-11-2012, 09:37 PM
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Wow, that S&P document is a great write-up. I can't really afford all of their products, but I love the bolting the T56 in without cutting the tunnel out.

As you said, they replaced the reverse lockout solenoid with a plug. During my test fit, I found that "persuasion" on the floorpan was cheaper!

Thanks for sharing that great link!

Troy
Old 01-11-2012, 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Rucumn
John 67 - since I will likely convert one of the two stock harnesses I have I will have to see where I am forced to mount the ecm. I am thinking it will be on the driver inner fender and if I have enough wire I might mount it up under the fender on the firewall on that side.

Do you have any suggestions?
My only suggestion would be if you were mounting it in the interior of the car to mount it at the glovebox area , I mounted mine centered at the firewall along with the fuses and now its pretty hard to get to all of it after the radio ,air conditioning and a bunch of ducts and wires . JOHN
Old 01-12-2012, 07:39 AM
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Most of our customers mount them in the glove box. Nice, clean look keeps them out of the elements and cleans up the engine compartment.

Jon
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Old 01-12-2012, 11:35 AM
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Thanks for the suggestions on the ECM guys. I haven't budgeted for a custom harness, but once I get a little closer to that point I will have to evaluate the cost/benefit. Benefits being a cleaner look, time savings on doing it myself, guarantee that it will work.
Old 01-12-2012, 11:39 AM
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I talked to Mark from S&P again about the new cast pan. He confirmed the 1st week of February it will be on their website. I asked him if he could provide any details on dimensions and he said that everything he has is in the program which was over at the casting facility. He did say that he will post the dimensions on the site to help us determine if the pan will meet our needs.

Based on the link above I already know that their modified f-body pan will work, but I do not have the donor pan, so the cost is just too high for a pan!


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