Vetteman61

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys,

I'm finally getting into the LS world with my first LS. Today I got a LS and I'm going to be installing it into our '37 Chevrolet 4 door.

I just started this build thread but intend to update it regularly with progress on the complete build.

Here's the link if you'd like to check it out:

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/jour...%20four%20door

Feel free to leave any comments or info you might have.

Thanks,
Brandon

turbinesurgeon

Clean car, bet that turns out nice when you're done. Post some pics here too when you get the chance

Stormed_Norm

iTrader: (10)

Nice barn find. I've been playing with 38/38 Chev's for 25 years. 4 doors are kinda neat, not many people fix them up. I'm parting out a 2 door sedan. I don't think I can help you much other than body mounting padset.

Here's my e-bay link and kijiji link for parts:

http://winnipeg.kijiji.ca/c-cars-veh...AdIdZ339303887
http://www.ebay.com/itm/170767262578...ELX:IT&vxp=mtr

Vetteman61

iTrader: (1)

Cool. Thanks guys. I'll definitely post some pics when I get some more done.

Brandon

1937chvyLS1

Good to see another '37 on here. Hit me up if you have any questions along the way. I am putting an LS1 in a '37 2-door. This site is a great wealth of info when trying to figure out the LS engines.

Dean

Vetteman61

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, that's be great!

I actually do have a couple questions already.
I'm going to go with a 8.8 Ford rear end out of a 95-01 Explorer. It's about 59" wide.
What kind of rear end are you using and do you know how wide it is. I want to run just a set of 8" wheels that are reproductions that look as much as possible like the originals. I have no idea how much backspacing I would need, though I know the 59" is almost identical to the width of the original rear end.

Thanks,
Brandon

Vetteman61

iTrader: (1)

Just updated the blog...feel free to check it out. I was finally able to start on the '37:
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/jour...ge=5&reverse=1



Brandon

1937chvyLS1

Brandon, sorry I am just getting back to your question.... the board didn't notify me... probibaly me since I am a newbi to this board.

Yes the Ford 8.8 is a great choice for the 37. That is what I am using. Mine is our of a 98 explorer, 8.8, w/ 3:73 posi, disk breaks.

My fenders are two inches wider than factory, and I am measuring up for wheels currently. Since my fenders are wider I can run a 10" wide wheel, with 12" wide tires. The back spacing shouldn't be any different, but for reference mine is 6-3/4" from the lip on the top hat frame to the face of the disk.

Dean

1937chvyLS1

Ok... hopefully I have the picture thing figured out. Here are some pictures of the Ford 8.8 rear end in the frame.

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Vetteman61

iTrader: (1)

That looks awesome!! What rear end mounting kit did you use? I just got in my Chassis Engineering mounting kit in. I would love to mount it after I take the body off but I think I'm going to leave the body and fenders on so I can make sure the alignment with the fenders is good before I mount it. It's bolt on so I want to make sure everything goes where it should.

Thanks,
Brandon


p.s.
Do you have a website with more pictures?
Also, I only mention this because you said you're new and even I still sometimes forget. If you go down to the bottom near where you hit "submit reply" there will be a box and if you select "instant email notification," it will send you an email to notify you of any thread you'd like to subscribe to.

1937chvyLS1

I would recomend getting the rear end on wile you still have the body on, it makes it much easier. Just remember that you really can't trust any measurments on those old frames. You need to find a reference point and work everything from there. I used my front crosmember (once I got it on).

The rear end and tubular crossmember are from Progressive Automotive. I am using Fatman Fabrication stage 3 with coil overs on the front.

I mocked my rear end up with the body and fenders on, but found that when I recieved my new fiberglass fenders that the opening was slightly off in comparison to the old. I found these sweet drop blocks that are mainly used for sprint car racing that are adjustable. They allow for an 1-1/2 front and back from center of adjustment... just perfect for the 1/4" adjustment I needed (I know a 1/4"!!!) LOL but want it to be perfect.

Thanks for the info on how the site works....

I have a bunch of pictures on my facebook... if you have one here is a link to mine... you will have to request me as a friend to view though.

http://www.facebook.com/#!/dean.drake

and here is my photobucket... but I will have to to upload more pictures there...

http://s1056.photobucket.com/albums/t376/Dean_Drake/

Vetteman61

iTrader: (1)

Cool, thanks Dean. Yeah, I had heard that these frames aren't all the same, so even though my rear end kit is supposed to bolt on I'm still afraid it'll need some adjustment.

I totally get the 1/4 inch drop. When it comes to nailing a stance those small adjustments can make it or break it!

Brandon

Stormed_Norm

iTrader: (10)

I had a chasis eng kit in mine.Did everything to their instructions. I ended up moving it 3/4 of a inch forward to have the rear end centered in the housing. Had a Heidt's in the front end. No problems with that.

Vetteman61

iTrader: (1)

Hey Norm, when you say you moved the rear end forward, do you mean the entire mounting assembly or that you moved the rear end and ubolts forward and left the leaf springs where they were.

Thanks,
Brandon

Stormed_Norm

iTrader: (10)

I move the front mounting point of the leaf spring forward.

Here's my 38 I built back in 97. Sold it to a guy from Duluth Mn and see it every year at the 50's show:

.