A-body oil pan??
It takes some work of trial and error of engine tilting to slip the F-body pan in behind the engine cross member with a T-56 transmission attached. I found it was easier if you generously clearance the firewall tunnel for the T-56. Even easier would be to drop the engine straight down and then bolt to the transmission.
Here is side view with the engine sitting in the 70Elky frame using trans datp adapters and energy suspension poly engine mount.
Here is side view with the engine sitting in the 70Elky frame using trans datp adapters and energy suspension poly engine mount.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: San Antonio, TX
Sweet ill be home sunday maybe I can come by during the week and take a peak. congrats on the 10yr Member when did that popup?
I think for the price, $300 +, fbody isn't worth it unless its free with an engine swap. To tight of a fit. Don't buy one, my opinion as I have one n regret I bought it, but I'll keep it for now.
Ctsv pan complete swap can be had for around $200 shipped. I'll see how it fits when mine gets here next week. Paid $170 shipped new for complete kit.
Mast $499
Akraft $399
Holly $399
Now the aftermarket prices may be cheaper but this was a quick search. I like the holly pan and someone posted they got it for around $320. I'd go this route if I wanted to spend this much on a pan, but I don't.
Ctsv pan complete swap can be had for around $200 shipped. I'll see how it fits when mine gets here next week. Paid $170 shipped new for complete kit.
Mast $499
Akraft $399
Holly $399
Now the aftermarket prices may be cheaper but this was a quick search. I like the holly pan and someone posted they got it for around $320. I'd go this route if I wanted to spend this much on a pan, but I don't.
Last edited by LS1 pwrd NOVA; Apr 26, 2012 at 04:25 PM.
For a-bodies, your best bet is to use the Holley A-body swap components. They have the mounts, oil pan, cross members for different transmissions, headers and full exhaust systems. Everything is engineered to work together.
Andrew
Andrew
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You would need to provide more specific information about which actual engine, accessory drive, transmission, A/C system (if used) and rear end you used for your testimonial of fitment to be usable to a broad scope of A-body swappers. Listing your measured and calculated U-joint working angles will also give more creedance to your information and make it more helpful to others.
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I used the stock Th350 trans and moved nothing. No reangled driveline, no changing U joints. Trans is in stock location, never even unbolted the mount.
Accessory drive is stock truck accessories with a smaller power steering pulley.
Accessory drive is stock truck accessories with a smaller power steering pulley.
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That's usesble information for someone running the exact same combination of parts as you, but if someone is using a different transmission and/or rearend than you, or lowering the car more, it will give them a false sense that things will come together smoothly in a bolt-in fashion. You cannot install any modern GM or Tremec transmission in an A-body and acheive optimized U-joint working angles without cutting/rebuilding the tunnel, if you want to leave the eng/trans mating plane in the stock SB Chevy location. The only way to achieve optimized no-cut installations with modern non-legacy transmissions is to move the engine/trans mating plane forward, or to use a C/V driveshaft.
