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1970 Chevelle LMG 5.3L 6L80e Swap

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Old 05-08-2012, 09:47 PM
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Default 1970 Chevelle LMG 5.3L 6L80e Swap

I picked up a LMG 5.3L and 6L80e out of a wrecked 2010 Silverado.

I have done a bit of reasearch and started buying parts to shoehorn the combo. I'm using dingo sliding motor mounts so I can play with the engine position. I picked up an LS2 intake because of possible hood clearance, and a Holley oilpan for added ground clearance. I put in the combo to see how everything lays out, I could be wrong but so far so good. The only two issues I have found are tunnel clearance and the power steering pulley comes in contact with the steering box. A big hammer should take care of the tunnel, and a smaller ps pulley will fix the steering issue.
I know there is a few guys that have done this swap so any advice would be appreciated. I don't think my clearances are to bad, but tell me what you guys think. A/C compressor has plenty of room.

I plan on moving the motor back another 3/4" from the measurements below.
Distance from truck Intake to firewall 2"

Distance from trans dipstick to firewall 1-3/8"

Stock Trans pan 2" lower the engine x-member. I know there is a lower profile trans pan(from G8's?) I can install which should bring me closer to 1" below the engine x-member. The stock trans crossmember looks like it will work perfect. I'm using a 2x4 as a spacer to take place of the trans mount until I mount it perminantly.

Stock truck oilpan 2" lower then engine x-member, the Holley pan will keep it above the x-member.

I had to cut out the passengerside front floor pan because it needed to be replaced so the trans tunnel is basically cut down the middle.
Old 05-09-2012, 05:29 AM
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Looks good so far, try Dorman #300-123 for the PS pulley. The rest should all fit under the stock hood. I am very interested in the trans swap. I currently have a 4L60E, and am intrigued by the 6 series. I used different mounts and Dougs headers. I also modified the stock crossmember to work. Is that the stock pan in the pictures? If so don't waste your time, put on the Holley pan now and then work out the trans angles. Be aware of the tie rods kissing the pan if you try to sit the engine low.
Old 05-09-2012, 05:51 AM
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Default question?

are those headers on that engine? or stock manifold's? this looks like its going to be a nice build, im on board!
Old 05-09-2012, 08:04 AM
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Good start to your swap.. Welcome !... from another A-body member...

Seem like you have the engine pretty far forward.. As oldgoat said, don't waste your time with that Truck pan.. get something that will be no lower than 1" below you X-Member.. flush would be best.

Boy, the trans is a beast in size. How low will the trans pan be ?

Those looks like Shorty headers.

BC
Old 05-09-2012, 08:25 AM
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Thanks for the PS pulley part#! That is the stock pan in the pics. By a few quick measurements it seems to be very similar to the Holley pan except the lowest section, I would gain a few inches of ground clearance. Oilpan is 1/4" or so from resting on the crossmember. The stock pan is angled on the driverside so I don't believe it comes in contact with the tie rod, I hope the holley pan is the same way. The headers are f-body BBK shortys, but I would like to swap them for long tubes at some point if they will fit. I have no clearance issues with the BBK's. After its all said and done the trans pan will sit 1" lower then the engine crossmember if the car was set to a level ride height.
Old 05-09-2012, 10:46 AM
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With the engine so far forward, Long tube are sometime a problem in that the come into contact with the Cross member or Steering Box. As Long tube seem to want to take up the same space as the Crossmember and/or Steering box.

I've read that a few A-body swap had that issue and had to move the engine back some. But let us know what you end up with.

BC
Old 05-09-2012, 12:20 PM
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Tagging along as I will be doing an A-Body swap also with a 6L80E.
Old 05-10-2012, 05:52 AM
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These are pics of Dougs headers with a 4L60E and modified crossmember.
Attached Thumbnails 1970 Chevelle LMG 5.3L 6L80e Swap-009.jpg   1970 Chevelle LMG 5.3L 6L80e Swap-003.jpg  
Old 05-11-2012, 12:27 PM
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There is only going to be about 1/4" between the trans dipstick and firewall so it could come back much further without notching the firewall or eliminating the dipstick. I figured the right set of truck or f-body long tubes may work. Shorties fit for now so I'm good there. This week we pulled the body off the frame, I will get the frame sand blasted and painted. I will probably pull all the brake and fuel lines and replace them. I need to figure out the fuel tank solution, I have heard a lot of bad things about the spectra tank but that may be the way to go if they actually did revise it. I will get some more pics up soon.
Old 05-12-2012, 05:22 AM
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For the dollar a B-body tank is a pretty good way to go. Easy fit, light weight, and oem components.
Old 05-14-2012, 06:48 PM
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I got to work on the car a little more this weekend. I got the body off and up on to the rotisserie.



The body shop is going to start sandblasting on the body. Once I got the body off I decided to install my LS2 intake for better hood clearance. Once I got it on I quickly discovered that the idler pulley gets in the way of the throttle body.

Anyone ran into this issue before, or is there any fixes? Should I stick with the stock 5.3 intake? It's pretty ugly and I'm not sure if the hood will shut with it.
Old 05-14-2012, 06:52 PM
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I took the pulley off and cit the little section that holds it off. Then the bolt that holds the bracket on directly below the alt... Get a longer bolt and a spacer and "BAM" idler relocator!!!
Old 06-28-2012, 09:23 PM
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I got around to taking some more pics of the work I've done lately.

I removed the factory oil pan and installed the Holley LSX Low profile pan


I didn't reuse the factory oil cooler adapter, the Holley pan came with a block off plate. Anyone see any issues with not running an oil cooler?


I modified the trans crossmember so my exhaust can run through it, keeping it tucked up to the body.

The frame looked like it was flexing in the center section so I decided to box it in. It seemed to help out a lot, plus most of the rest of the frame was boxed from the factory.

I test fit the motor/trans a few times to determine where the crossmember needed to go. Next I will be boxing the rear trailing arms and sand blasting the frame.
Old 06-29-2012, 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by 99VetteFRC
I took the pulley off and cit the little section that holds it off. Then the bolt that holds the bracket on directly below the alt... Get a longer bolt and a spacer and "BAM" idler relocator!!!
Yup

Spacer




Bolt



Painted bracket and pulley



I used my sawzal to cut the bracket. Cut it real slow and had someone to spray little lubricant here and there as I cut.

Then got out air grinder and used a bit to clean up just a tad bit. Its still not "pretty" but it'll work for me.
Old 06-29-2012, 04:49 AM
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Chopsaw removed the bracket, idler move down by the crank.
Old 07-13-2012, 11:54 AM
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Making great progress.
Old 08-26-2012, 09:55 AM
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Very nice. Considering this conversion on my Olds Starfire. My spindles are rear steer so was considering some major mods such as a rack and pinion, GTO reverse sump pan, and heavily moded crossmember to lower the engine so I don't have to cut the floor again....hopefully.
Old 10-26-2012, 08:57 AM
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First time ive seen someone put two engines in a Chevelle.. Lol that trans is huge!!
I couldnt help but to see the plugs on the wiring harness in one of the later pics.. Who are you going with for a wiring harness? Is the harness in the pic the one thats goimg to be used?
Old 10-26-2012, 09:22 AM
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Yes it is huge. I'm going to be swapping that trans pan for a lower profile one here at some point. I made the mistake of paying SSP Wiring in AZ to build the harness. It has been one year and still no harness. I have actually had to go knock on their door twice to get an update, and then I just get excuses. Apparently it must be difficult to build since I wanted TAP shifting ability. I want to be able to use the malibu horn buttons for up/down shifting or go with the caddy console shifter. You would think he could have it figured out by now. Shops are so frustrating!
Old 10-26-2012, 01:08 PM
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Great build. There are options if you do not wish to create you own idler pulley on sites like Dirty Dingo http://dirtydingo.com/store/product_...oducts_id=1371 and I've also seen plenty on Ebay as well.

I too am looking for good solutions to fuel options but since I've already replaced my trunk pan I've chosen not to use the B-Body tank. I've read many threads were many member have used the Tanks Inc. setup http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/pa...prod/prd84.htm with their factory tank with great success. Also 66 BADBOY a member here has came up with a new option using the 5th gen Camaro module utilizing the stock tank that I was actually considering. http://retrofuel.com/ Also you could always go the external pump route which is a proven option.

Have you looked at Speartech for your harness? I've read they have an option for the 6L80 they have tested and used on one of their projects. I also believe it is setup for the malibu horn buttons for up/down shifting with the actual shifter.

I'm not so sure if the F-Body or truck headers will work. There may be some clearance issues especially with the F-Body headers.

Last edited by Spec134; 10-26-2012 at 05:12 PM.


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