Ive never seen a pinion driven alt before. or heard of, or thought of. lol. is that pretty standard in classes similar to what this car runs in?

 

Ya that definately isn't a lifter.

 

That is what I was thinking!

 

The suspension is at full droop in these pictures. It's a road race car, not a 4x4 rock crawler Plenty of slack in the wires for full travel from getting some air to hitting the bump stops. I'll strain relief the power wire with an adel clamp.

 

They use them in NASCAR some and in some other classes. In my case the rear end had the v-belt pulley on the pinion already. Normally it's used to drive a diff cooler pump. For our type of racing (hour max) it's not needed. I was trying to find the best alternator mount for y-body belt spacing on the engine and then realized I could just stick it on the rear end. It keeps the engine accessories incredibly simple (water pump only), and makes wiring easier as the battery is already in the rear of the car. You need the wire from the alternator to be "behind" your master kill switch. If it isn't, the engine can keep running even when you turn the kill switch off.

 

Ycu should be good to go then! Did you get a ramp score?

 

I had to google "ramp score"

 

Radiator shroud fitted and front bumper support installed.




Picked up some SS pipe to make new side pipes. Easier to go with SS since the Magnaflows and Hooker manifold flanges were already SS. Won't have to coat it now, just wrap for heat.

 

Got the new side pipes mostly done and tacked. Need to get some more pipe and put the body side panels in place to finish them and ensure the tips are oriented correctly in the openings. Going to have them tig welded as I don't have the gas/wire to weld stainless. Way more space between the pipes and chassis tub then before. Should result in less heat transfer to the interior.

 

It's looking good and you are on the home stretch now. Keep up the great work.

 

Thanks. Hope to fire it up this weekend. Need to find radiator hoses. In retrospect I should have spec'd the radiator and modified the water pump for AN fittings. I read a couple of articles which said they restricted flow vs. traditional rubber hoses. Will need to go parts hunting this week with my hose mock-ups.

 

Would they restrict more than a thermostat? Maybe not race cars, but many high hp cars don't seem to have flow issues in that regard. Besides, if the water flows too fast through the radiator, it won't cool down enough

 

That's a common myth...

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Cooling/#Myths

and

EDIT - I just looked up how much large -20 AN fittings cost... maybe I didn't make the wrong choice.

 

EDIT - I just looked up how much large -20 AN fittings cost... maybe I didn't make the wrong choice.

Unless you're running a high pressure system (+20 lbs or so), you'll do fine with regular hose given proper/adequate beading on your fittings. AN is a must for high pressures.

Andy1

 

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Hmmmm... well it's a race car so we're running a 30 psi cap to increase the boiling point of the water in the car. The radiator builder recommended it and builds radiators for a few cup car teams (Tapp Inc.). He didn't make any mention of needing to run AN fittings and braided line. He spec'd slightly larger inlet/outlets so the hoses will have to be lubed to fit over, but they'll be more secure. I'm going to call him tomorrow and double-check that a 30 psi cap isn't asking for trouble with standard rubber hoses.

 

I tend to be on the cautious side with things like this, ergo my opinion. I've seen hoses pop off on roadrace cars, but I can only speculate as why it happened in those particular cases. Some guys double up and run two hose clamps per end for perhaps that very reason. My AFCO ASA radiator had a relatively small bead on the hot side, so I re-beaded it to something a bit more ample to suit my taste. That said however, if AFCO provided such a small bead for a racing radiator, then perhaps they feel it's adequate and reliable. I'm sure your radiator guy (with race experience) will steer you in the right direction.

Andy1

 

Tapp says all radiators are pressure tested to 32 psi with rubber hoses and slip fit connections. The hoses won't burst, but it's the slip fit that would be the weak point. That said, they do all their testing with slip fits and hose clamps.

Regardless, a little more research shows I have no need for a 30 psi cap and the increased boiling point. A 30 psi cap gives me a 290 boiling point for pure water. I back off at 240 since this is all amateur self-pay no sponsors stuff. Usually the cars will stay in the 210-215 range unless it's a 100+ day and you're on someone's bumper for an extended period.

A 20 psi cap is more than sufficient (260 degree boiling point) for my use. It really doesn't matter if I leave the 30 psi cap in place if I'm going to be backing off at 235-240 degrees anyway. I checked my Corvette and it has an 18 psi cap standard.

 

I see the wiring benefit, but you've added unsprung weight and the alternator will be rotating a lot slower that it would on the engine. You'll have slower pinion rotation in all but 1:1 gear (transmission) and the pulley itself is much smaller in diameter than a typical crank pulley. I don't think it will charge very effectively, but I could be wrong. Definitely unique.

Those are bad ***. I wonder how well they'll hold up over time. Did you print them on an inkjet or laser?

 

You forgot the required Pirate smiley...

 

Exactly - the difference between -20 and -16 hose is nothing compared to the thermostat. A lot of the off-road guys don't even use a thermostat, they use a freeze plug with a 5/8" hole.

CBR told me -16 was fine for the radiator they sold me, they said it should be good up to 600 HP in a rock race buggy with a 6.0 LS motor. I expect to be between 4-500 HP. It's hard to get anything more than that to the ground on the east coast.

Ron Davis told Shannon Campbell to run -20 but he's pushing big HP numbers for an Ultra4 car.

Very cool build BTW.