Rebuilding Dad's Panoz; LS1 swap
05-14-2013 | 06:36 PM
#181
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 10,221
Likes: 1,510
From: The City of Fountains
Tapp says all radiators are pressure tested to 32 psi with rubber hoses and slip fit connections. The hoses won't burst, but it's the slip fit that would be the weak point. That said, they do all their testing with slip fits and hose clamps.
Regardless, a little more research shows I have no need for a 30 psi cap and the increased boiling point. A 30 psi cap gives me a 290 boiling point for pure water. I back off at 240 since this is all amateur self-pay no sponsors stuff. Usually the cars will stay in the 210-215 range unless it's a 100+ day and you're on someone's bumper for an extended period.
A 20 psi cap is more than sufficient (260 degree boiling point) for my use. It really doesn't matter if I leave the 30 psi cap in place if I'm going to be backing off at 235-240 degrees anyway. I checked my Corvette and it has an 18 psi cap standard.
Regardless, a little more research shows I have no need for a 30 psi cap and the increased boiling point. A 30 psi cap gives me a 290 boiling point for pure water. I back off at 240 since this is all amateur self-pay no sponsors stuff. Usually the cars will stay in the 210-215 range unless it's a 100+ day and you're on someone's bumper for an extended period.
A 20 psi cap is more than sufficient (260 degree boiling point) for my use. It really doesn't matter if I leave the 30 psi cap in place if I'm going to be backing off at 235-240 degrees anyway. I checked my Corvette and it has an 18 psi cap standard.
Andrew
05-15-2013 | 12:58 AM
#183
I see the wiring benefit, but you've added unsprung weight and the alternator will be rotating a lot slower that it would on the engine. You'll have slower pinion rotation in all but 1:1 gear (transmission) and the pulley itself is much smaller in diameter than a typical crank pulley. I don't think it will charge very effectively, but I could be wrong. Definitely unique.
Originally Posted by -TheBandit-
Those are bad ***. I wonder how well they'll hold up over time. Did you print them on an inkjet or laser?
Thanks.
I saw the heat shrink clamps, but I like things to be serviceable. I'm going to use OEM clamps I have from all my spare Corvette stuff along with a 20 psi cap. The OEM Corvette surge tank cap is 18psi and works well. I'm running the older style four port steam port already. I use the standard one with front ports in my LS6 in my Corvette and have never had issues.
05-15-2013 | 09:39 PM
#184
Serpentine belt ended up @ 41". According to another Panoz owner with a LS1, this is plenty of belt wrap and works fine. If it doesn't work I can always install a separate idler.
Catch can and radiator overflow mounted. Catch can has feed lines from each valve cover using OEM PCV system ports and one from the rear of the valley cover. Can also has a return line to a -6 AN fitting added to the passenger side of the pan toward the front. No need to drain the can and no issues with oil dripping down on the side-pipe. Got the MAP sensor hooked up as well; uses a barb on the passenger side of the manifold and a tube connecting the two.
Catch can and radiator overflow mounted. Catch can has feed lines from each valve cover using OEM PCV system ports and one from the rear of the valley cover. Can also has a return line to a -6 AN fitting added to the passenger side of the pan toward the front. No need to drain the can and no issues with oil dripping down on the side-pipe. Got the MAP sensor hooked up as well; uses a barb on the passenger side of the manifold and a tube connecting the two.
05-16-2013 | 11:14 AM
#186
Racecar doesn't need vacuum on the can. When the engine produces excess pressure it's vented w/o making a mess. Street cars need vacuum because they spend a lot of time at low RPM and idle so they need vacuum to suck crank vapors out and create a flow through the system. On my Corvette I run dual cans in the factory PCV and fresh air feed lines but they're not vented, they hook up to the TB and intake manifold.
05-16-2013 | 12:25 PM
#187
TECH Resident
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 791
Likes: 2
From: SoCal
That belt wrap looks pretty minimal to me. You might keep an eye on it; make note of any fine rubber particles around the belt areas after you run it. Though you may or may not hear it slipping, the particles are usually a sign of slippage. Andy1
05-16-2013 | 12:48 PM
#189
It's your overly cautious poster again That belt wrap looks pretty minimal to me. You might keep an eye on it; make note of any fine rubber particles around the belt areas after you run it. Though you may or may not hear it slipping, the particles are usually a sign of slippage.
Andy1
That belt wrap looks pretty minimal to me. You might keep an eye on it; make note of any fine rubber particles around the belt areas after you run it. Though you may or may not hear it slipping, the particles are usually a sign of slippage. Andy1
Katech manual tensioner. I picked this one up used so it's the older design. I have one on my Corvette as well.
05-19-2013 | 08:14 PM
#191
Radiator overflow hose done, upper radiator hose figured out, and lower almost done pending a tube splice to use half of the OEM Corvette lower.
Hardcore dipstick fabrication. Chrome handle adds a few horses.
Clutch and brake masters bled.
Clutch works. Quartermaster hydraulic throw-out bearing seems to be doing it's job perfectly. Set the pedal stop just past where I can turn the driveshaft by hand.
Hardcore dipstick fabrication. Chrome handle adds a few horses.
Clutch and brake masters bled.
Clutch works. Quartermaster hydraulic throw-out bearing seems to be doing it's job perfectly. Set the pedal stop just past where I can turn the driveshaft by hand.
05-20-2013 | 10:57 AM
#193
Teching In
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Racecar doesn't need vacuum on the can. When the engine produces excess pressure it's vented w/o making a mess. Street cars need vacuum because they spend a lot of time at low RPM and idle so they need vacuum to suck crank vapors out and create a flow through the system. On my Corvette I run dual cans in the factory PCV and fresh air feed lines but they're not vented, they hook up to the TB and intake manifold.
05-24-2013 | 08:37 PM
#195
Pro 5.0 shifter, custom shifter handle, and Hurst ****... Feels awesome. Far superior to the remote shifter.
Coolant hose splice worked perfectly for the lower. Adapted half an OEM C5 hose.
Coolant hose splice worked perfectly for the lower. Adapted half an OEM C5 hose.
05-26-2013 | 12:19 AM
#198
Thanks for the compliments. Got the side pipes wrapped and installed, filled her with fluids and will fire it up tomorrow. Had a seeping dipstick and one of the heater core ports I tapped and plugged was weeping. Fixed both of those. Got home from seeing Fast 6 tonight (great movie if you like the franchise) and the garage floor was 100% dry.
