Sarg

iTrader: (6)

Every little thing helps. Couple hundred here, couple hundred there and before long you are spoiling 1000 rpm sooner. Heck I have seen 600 rpm differences on 4 bangers from twinscroll and heat wrap alone!

RedRocketZ28

iTrader: (19)

Sarg, are you running eBay wastegates? I was doing some searching on them and found a thread that said you were. I am switching my setup up and and will be running two gates. Tempted to try out some eBay gates.

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

Yup, they are the Emusa 38mm. They look similar to tial 38mm gates. Not sure how well they will do long term, but they seem ok so far.

TURBHOE

iTrader: (4)

Have you checked to see if both banks have the same drive pressure?

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

Nope. Honestly I am not overly concerned about it. The pipes are roughly the same length, diameter and number of bends. Might be interesting though. Maybe I will weld in a couple bungs to give it a try later. For right now I am just concentrating on getting it in shape to race. I just ordered my 35 spline axles, cclip eliminators, rear diff cover and install kit last night from Midwest Chassis, a sponsor here. Awesome price!

LILHEMI

Excited for you!!!

TURBHOE

iTrader: (4)

ok, i was just wondering because you are running two gate. wasn't sure if there was a way to tell if they are both opening the same amount or not.

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

My main experience with twinscoll systems was with 4 cylinder cars. In those the main thing was to try to make equal runners with similar number of bends. I know it is not scientific in any way but you hear both gates open at the same time. I need to take them both back off and remove a spring. Hitting 16.5 psi on a 14.7 spring.

LILHEMI

**** that. just tune for the extra boost. im gettting the exact same thing lol. gated for 14.5 and its creeping to 16 over 5000 RPM.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Congrats, sounds great!

Get a shrouded 2 speed ford taurus fan. You'll never need another.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-taurus-3-8-sable-electric-hot-rod-2-radiator-cooling-fan-jeep-project-s10-/111205918449?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19e463a6f1&vxp=mtr

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

@lilhemi, oh I plan on it eventually, but want to sneak up on it. I also have a manul controller.

As for the Taurus fan, it may be a tad thick for my application at 4" thick. Would have to measure. I did some testing though and it seems my downpipe/muffler is a tad to close to my metallic lower radiator hose. Think that is contributing to the heat build up when stationary.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

They can be trimmed to around 3" pretty easily. Also seen people cut the round fan portion out and pop rivit it onto a custom made alum shroud. Just a suggestion they move more CFM than any aftermarket fan in that price range. (claims as high as 3700cfm on high) Cools my 5.3 with a small 17x17 core radiator. Even on 100* day I see about 216* sitting in traffic. Also have the original 210 thermo with a few holes drilled in it installed.

Really doubt much heat will be transferred through the metal coolant pipe. I ran my exhaust under the entire length of the radiator. It actually touches the bottom of the radiator... no problem.

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

Huh, and I thought I had figured the problem, lol. The pipe coming out of the radiator, leading to the engine is actually about 10* hotter than the one leading into the radiator. Right at the base of the radiator is cool, but 4 inches out where it is nearly touching the exhaust it is quite hot. I really though that would be the issue. So you think it is more airflow than the metal tubing being right on the downpipe?

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Every little bit helps. But I doubt it's the main issue. If your car cools fine while cruising and not at idle then it's def. a fan issue. Do you run a thermostat? Mine cooled better with that without.

I trimmed the fan down quite a bit. Used them on 4 builds now. They really are pretty badass for the money. May have to angle the top of the Rad forward a bit for clearance. This was before I glassed the top in but I managed to trim quite a bit.

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

Thank you for the picture. I guess I will do some measuring.

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

35 spline axles, spool and c-clip eliminators...check

cam

iTrader: (9)

That'll do the job quite nicely

LILHEMI

make sure you RTV the **** out of both sides of those gaskets on the c clip eliminators. i read that somewhere and mine dont leak lol

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the tip. My main concern is managing to make my disc brakes work with them. This is an uncommon set up. It is the same rear end that came in the 1992-1993 saleens. Kinda an oddball.

Sarg

iTrader: (6)

So I about have the rear axle done and was trying to make a spacer to go in between the axle flange and the c-clip eliminators. But the 1/16" steel laughed at my hole saw. I do not have the old rear drum backing plates as I did not have rear drums, this axle had disc brakes. Not sure what I will do at this point. I had hoped to have this finished this weekend. Guess I will have to break out the plasma cutter and hope I can get a nice clean cut. I suppose I will cut inside the circle and grind it out or something.