Borg Warner S480 Turbo L33 5.3 1991 Mustang Notch build update 3/27
05-24-2014, 11:24 AM
#429
Well the track was packed last night and I had an interesting little adventure. Apparently the single 8 gauge wire that I had going from the alternator back to the battery was wholly insufficient. I had it run that way so that when I pushed in my kill switch for the battery (had to have cause of track) it needed to kill the car. However, it apparently needs a bigger wire. When I had it going from the alternator straight to the big 0 gauge wire leading back to the battery it seemed to charge fine. When just running with the 8 gauge I got to the track and apparently had drained the battery. Relays would not power, fans would not come on and the thing was overheating bad. Swapped in a fresh battery from my truck and was able to crank again.
By the time the thing got cooled down, I went over passed tech and got in line there was a huge line. We pushed it all the way up to the starting line just about to make sure it did not overheat again (was not sure at the time what had happened). Got up and made one half throttle run just to make sure it was going to go reasonably straight as this was the first ever time this thing had gone through the gears over 100 mph and the battery was getting low again. I won't even mention a time as it is not worth talking about, haha. I threw in the towel for the night and we started home.
Made it about 25 of the 34 miles to the house and lights got super dim, everything started shutting off again and poof......car dies. Managed to use the truck to charge it just enough to limp into a parking lot where we would not be run over, had a buddy who thankfully was able to go grab that jumper wire from the house and meet up with us. With the battery charged via jumper cables for about 30 minutes and the jumper wire it fired perfect and made it home no problem.
I hate electrical gremlins. That and the overheating issue. At this point I am going to blame it on the battery and charging issues. I think a good number of my relays quit working when the battery got too low. But I am going to test that out some more today.
By the time the thing got cooled down, I went over passed tech and got in line there was a huge line. We pushed it all the way up to the starting line just about to make sure it did not overheat again (was not sure at the time what had happened). Got up and made one half throttle run just to make sure it was going to go reasonably straight as this was the first ever time this thing had gone through the gears over 100 mph and the battery was getting low again. I won't even mention a time as it is not worth talking about, haha. I threw in the towel for the night and we started home.
Made it about 25 of the 34 miles to the house and lights got super dim, everything started shutting off again and poof......car dies. Managed to use the truck to charge it just enough to limp into a parking lot where we would not be run over, had a buddy who thankfully was able to go grab that jumper wire from the house and meet up with us. With the battery charged via jumper cables for about 30 minutes and the jumper wire it fired perfect and made it home no problem.
I hate electrical gremlins. That and the overheating issue. At this point I am going to blame it on the battery and charging issues. I think a good number of my relays quit working when the battery got too low. But I am going to test that out some more today.
05-24-2014, 11:36 AM
#432
Nah just makes me more determined to get out there and do it again, haha. I am thinking of replacing one of my two fans with a big Spal unit. On one side of the radiator I have a good bit more room than the other. Think that might help with the cooling issues. But, I think these electrical gremlins may be contributing to the fans not getting all the power they could.
05-24-2014, 01:00 PM
#433
That stinks! I used a light weight "mini" battery and threw it in the engine bay so I didn't have to mess with all that crapola!
Just a thought, but can't you run the single wire to the field plug on the alternator back to your kill switch? Or once the alternator is charging does pulling that wire not effect it?
Seems like it would be beneficial to run small gauge wires to the shut off switch and not worry about running some massive 0ga wire the length of the car and back? IE run your fuel pump relay wire and maybe the main coil power supply wire? I'd think that would shut the engine down pretty safely.
Just a thought good luck with it!
Just a thought, but can't you run the single wire to the field plug on the alternator back to your kill switch? Or once the alternator is charging does pulling that wire not effect it?
Seems like it would be beneficial to run small gauge wires to the shut off switch and not worry about running some massive 0ga wire the length of the car and back? IE run your fuel pump relay wire and maybe the main coil power supply wire? I'd think that would shut the engine down pretty safely.
Just a thought good luck with it!
05-24-2014, 01:08 PM
#434
I am sure there is some good way of doing it, but as it stands, the way I had it wired, when I hit the battery kill switch, if I have the jumper going from the alternator to the main power lug in the engine compartment, even with the battery disconnected from the system, the alternator would still power the car and keep it running. I had to remove that jumper and just have the wire going from the alternator back to the battery, then everything else on the other side of the lug.
So I had alternator and battery on one side of the switch, the big o gauge and fuel pump wiring, etc on the other side of the switch and when it was thrown the car shut down immediately like they wanted. But the 8 gauge wire I had going from the alternator to the rear of the car and the switch was just not enough apparently. I would have thought it was, but it was not.
So I had alternator and battery on one side of the switch, the big o gauge and fuel pump wiring, etc on the other side of the switch and when it was thrown the car shut down immediately like they wanted. But the 8 gauge wire I had going from the alternator to the rear of the car and the switch was just not enough apparently. I would have thought it was, but it was not.
05-24-2014, 01:26 PM
#435
I am sure there is some good way of doing it, but as it stands, the way I had it wired, when I hit the battery kill switch, if I have the jumper going from the alternator to the main power lug in the engine compartment, even with the battery disconnected from the system, the alternator would still power the car and keep it running. I had to remove that jumper and just have the wire going from the alternator back to the battery, then everything else on the other side of the lug.
So I had alternator and battery on one side of the switch, the big o gauge and fuel pump wiring, etc on the other side of the switch and when it was thrown the car shut down immediately like they wanted. But the 8 gauge wire I had going from the alternator to the rear of the car and the switch was just not enough apparently. I would have thought it was, but it was not.
So I had alternator and battery on one side of the switch, the big o gauge and fuel pump wiring, etc on the other side of the switch and when it was thrown the car shut down immediately like they wanted. But the 8 gauge wire I had going from the alternator to the rear of the car and the switch was just not enough apparently. I would have thought it was, but it was not.
05-26-2014, 04:54 PM
#437
Yea sarg 8 seems way to small, Im running 0 gauge from alt to battery. Get that switched out and then verify the alt is charging. I hate electrical issues as well. I had a pretty good one happen to me last week so ill tell yas just incase your running a transbrake. I was cruising around town and got on it for a second in first. Then BAM the car shuts off and the rear wheels locked up. Blew a main fuse in the mustang fuse panel. So replaced it and popped again right away. By this time its dark. So the next day I start tearing through the car and found 1 power wire that runs to the trans controlling the trans brake and converter lock. It was pinched under my radio. Thankfully I was only going like 20mph when it happend. But made me start double checking my wires and putting wire loom around ones that may need it.
And get your damn car down the track soon I just went down and im not saying the time since i went off the trans brake and spun 2.2 60ft. But trapped 137mph on 8.7psi lol
And get your damn car down the track soon I just went down and im not saying the time since i went off the trans brake and spun 2.2 60ft. But trapped 137mph on 8.7psi lol
05-26-2014, 07:33 PM
#438
My first time down the track was even worse. I just rolled into the throttle slowly and did a half throttle pass. I hit a massive 15.5 at 108 slowly rolling into it to half throttle and shutting it down early. I just wanted to see how thing reacted. Tried fitting the slicks today and found that I was rubbing on the inside on the passenger side and the outside of the driver's side. Not sure how it is not centered, but it isn't for sure. Gotta figure that out. In the mean time I beat the snot out of the inner fender well and things are clearing on the passenger side, but still a little tight on the outside edge on the driver's side with the slicks.
05-27-2014, 02:49 PM
#439
My first time down the track was even worse. I just rolled into the throttle slowly and did a half throttle pass. I hit a massive 15.5 at 108 slowly rolling into it to half throttle and shutting it down early. I just wanted to see how thing reacted. Tried fitting the slicks today and found that I was rubbing on the inside on the passenger side and the outside of the driver's side. Not sure how it is not centered, but it isn't for sure. Gotta figure that out. In the mean time I beat the snot out of the inner fender well and things are clearing on the passenger side, but still a little tight on the outside edge on the driver's side with the slicks.
05-27-2014, 03:31 PM
#440
Tires are 275/60/15 street tires and 28/10.50/15 slicks. Both had the same issue. It was just worse with the slicks than the drag radials. It is probably 1/4" or less, but still causing clearance issues. I got the inner edge beat out pretty well, but the driver's side outside edge is still kinda tight. I might be able to roll the fender a bit more.