Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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LM4 T56 Powered 2001 Miata Frankenstein

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Old 08-09-2012, 03:37 PM
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Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought the CTS-V shifter sits much further back than the F-body. I ran into a couple CTS-V dropouts when I was shopping for my swap and the consensus was that the parts to convert it to F-body made it not worth while. The GTO T56 only required a $30 part to install an F-body shifter.

Check my build parts list for a good list of parts and part numbers.
Old 08-09-2012, 05:38 PM
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He is thinking about doing this


I have $10.00 and some scrap + labor in it.
Old 08-09-2012, 08:40 PM
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74modified is exactly right and there will be around $50 and some scrap steel invested in the shifter assembly. The CTS-V is a much better unit than the f-body T56 and actually came from a IRS car so with a little imagination it will fit into the Miata. 74modified also helped a lot with his images
Old 08-10-2012, 06:48 AM
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Maybe I'm missing something but what does the Caddy having IRS have to do with using this T56?

Great idea on setting up that shifter, btw!
Old 08-10-2012, 07:23 AM
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It does not have a huge effect on the car. I am just referring to the driveshaft setup and the fact that the CTS-V T56 does not use a slip yoke type driveshaft actually works for the miata since it is IRS which is what the flex coupler driveshaft type was designed for
Old 08-12-2012, 05:54 PM
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We started tearing out the interior this weekend

Old 08-14-2012, 11:19 AM
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We are looking at fuel lines now. Any recommendations from the other miata swappers. We are using the Corvette filter and there is 190lph pump in the tank
Old 08-14-2012, 12:19 PM
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I am looking at something like the line in the link.
Has anybody tried this from the fuel tank to engine bay?
should I use 3/8 hard line?

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...%2F8+fuel+line
Old 08-14-2012, 12:19 PM
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Im going to be doing a LSx swap to my miata petty soon, i have a LQ4 with ls6 heads and manifold with a tsp tsunami cam. I just got the car about a months ago. Good luck with yours and thanks for the info on this build thread!!
Old 08-14-2012, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by SnowmanLC
Im going to be doing a LSx swap to my miata petty soon, i have a LQ4 with ls6 heads and manifold with a tsp tsunami cam. I just got the car about a months ago. Good luck with yours and thanks for the info on this build thread!!
we are in the same boat
keep me posted on your build.

we are doing a LQ4 in my friend's Legacy GT
Old 08-14-2012, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by musanovic
I am looking at something like the line in the link.
Has anybody tried this from the fuel tank to engine bay?
should I use 3/8 hard line?

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...%2F8+fuel+line
It is becoming common for the factories to use the nylon. One downside is bending and splicing. I am using this piece from a Buick. Nylon on both ends. I am using a return on my fuel rail.
http://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/...8142012239.jpg
You can bend it by putting it in boiling water for ~10 min. A heat gun works but can overheat. As for installing fittings you can buy repair kits.
And here is a thread (post 19 or so) for a DIY fitting press. The real tools ar very expensive.http://m.modernhemi.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1085884
Old 08-14-2012, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 74modified
It is becoming common for the factories to use the nylon. One downside is bending and splicing. I am using this piece from a Buick. Nylon on both ends. I am using a return on my fuel rail.
http://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/...8142012239.jpg
You can bend it by putting it in boiling water for ~10 min. A heat gun works but can overheat. As for installing fittings you can buy repair kits.
And here is a thread (post 19 or so) for a DIY fitting press. The real tools ar very expensive.http://m.modernhemi.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1085884
good info. looks simple enough to attempt.
I'll give it a shot.
Old 08-14-2012, 02:25 PM
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nice build should be real quick. Why are you taking out the interior?
Old 08-14-2012, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by merim123
nice build should be real quick. Why are you taking out the interior?
have to widen the transmission tunnel. and do clean out the wiring.
Old 08-14-2012, 09:22 PM
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I used steel braided fuel line from the tank to the filter and return. Also for the feed up to the engine. I'd be a little worried about using nylon under the car without some serious heat/abrasion resistant covering. Especially now after seeing how much heat is generated underneath the car. I also wrapped the braided line with heat tape where it runs near the exhaust and engine.
Old 08-14-2012, 09:25 PM
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Wiring the 2001+ cars is a breeze. It's like Mazda intended on using a LS motor. At least that how out seemed with the E40 ecu.
Old 08-15-2012, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by MX6.0
Wiring the 2001+ cars is a breeze. It's like Mazda intended on using a LS motor. At least that how out seemed with the E40 ecu.
Did you buy the wiring kit or did it yourself? Do you have the schematics? Could use something to double check my work from. I am planning to run the fuel line through a rubber hose to cover it and protect.
Old 08-15-2012, 06:33 AM
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I modified the gto harness myself. I'll dig up my wiring diagrams when i get home and snap a picture of them.

It's nice that you don't have to use anything at all from the Mazda engine harness.
Old 08-15-2012, 07:41 AM
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That's great. We have the 99-00 wiring book which from what I saw is mostly the same as the 01+. We are going to use the truck harness that came with the motor. I plan to start trimming off all the unnecessary connections (Auto trans, etc.) this weekend and then we will reloom it.
Old 08-15-2012, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by MX6.0
I modified the gto harness myself. I'll dig up my wiring diagrams when i get home and snap a picture of them.

It's nice that you don't have to use anything at all from the Mazda engine harness.
I would be forever great full. what ECU modifications are you running?
did you eliminate the mazda OEM key chip security thing?


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