fmowry

iTrader: (14)

The Mazda keychip is tied to the Mazda ECU. Since that is removed, so is the function.

I'm also using braided SS fuel line from the 'vette filter to the fuel rail. Under the car I also slit a heater hose and covered the braided line with that for added protection and run a heat sleeve where it is close to the exhaust.

musanovic

Do you have the anoying flashing on the dash? Or does it just disapear. When i dis megasquirt it was always flashing. Might have to kill the bulb!

MX6.0

I remember removing one of the bulbs from the gauge cluster, I think that was the one.

I'm in the middle of compiling all of my wiring notes from my swap. I'm putting them together in a Google Spreadsheet.

2001 Miata / E40 Wiring

The "MY WIRE" column is to keep track of whatever wire you use to connect the 2 together.

It's not done yet, ill let ya know when it's done.

musanovic

Thanks for putting in the time on this!!!!!

musanovic

Back to the build.
Had a very productive Friday night.
Here is how I started off, and no joke it was the fortune cookie I got that night before I started.

Also marked up the subframe will post pics tonight on the markings. I will take measurements if it works out maybe others can use for their build.

Hard to see but one pictures shows the oil pan in the blaster being cleaned. originally it was painted black had to correct that ASAP.

for 100k the engine looks to be in great condition.

musanovic

This is a larger volume master cylinder from a late 80's Toyota.
I have read that this one should have enough volume to drive the t56 slave.
BTW it is almost a direct fit.
see for yourself below.

and some more wrinkle paint.
looks pretty good.

74modified

Looking good! That clutch master looks like it is a great fit, and even has an adjustable rod. The engine looks good as well, the oil pump pickup being clean is a good sign.
I use a lot of cut off wheels and grinders, and would recommend using a face shield or at least some safety glasses

musanovic

yea it was late in the night and I was just trying to grind through. Face Shield is a MUST!

Just saw a post about dipsticks in the LM4 looks like I may have to drill out a new hole. Haven't looked at the block closely but this may be the case.

74modified

If you don't have a plug there should be a flat spot on the block in that location where you can drill it.

musanovic

appreciate that info. hope I do have the plug.

Cobra4B

iTrader: (9)

What's the purpose of cutting up the oil pan? To clear the cross-member? Isn't the pan cast aluminum? Isn't it a PITA to weld on cast aluminum?

musanovic

Have to clear steering rack. Welding is another story. Hope to find local welder. It will be a PITA

74modified

Any time you have to weld and old pan (oil contamination) it can be hard to get it clean. I know some people even run them through the dishwasher several times I didn't have a problem with mine, but cleaned it several times.

Cobra4B

iTrader: (9)

Nobody makes a decent sheetmetal pan for a swap like this? I'd spend the money on that vs. a welded up cast pan.

musanovic

they do at a cost of about 800.
Not looking to spend that much on it to be honest. couple have done it already and seems to work.

musanovic

will do more sand blasting hopefully that will help and than brake clean the heck out of it.

Cobra4B

iTrader: (9)

Wow... I just bought a Kevko racing pan for the LS1 going in my Panoz and it was $300.

musanovic

interesting.
looking at them now.
looks like one could fit right up.

musanovic

Question:
Is the MAF required of can I have the ECU tuned for MAP only?? I did a conversion on a 4 cylinder before but it was a pain in the behind wonder if it is also the same case here.
should I run a MAF?

Turbo Turtle

iTrader: (1)

i had to do the same thing to my oil pan to get it to fit the focus and clear the rack. welding the stock pan is a real pain to do it with out warpage. best bet is to have it bolted to the engine and heat it with a heater first