LM4 T56 Powered 2001 Miata Frankenstein
#21
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought the CTS-V shifter sits much further back than the F-body. I ran into a couple CTS-V dropouts when I was shopping for my swap and the consensus was that the parts to convert it to F-body made it not worth while. The GTO T56 only required a $30 part to install an F-body shifter.
Check my build parts list for a good list of parts and part numbers.
Check my build parts list for a good list of parts and part numbers.
#23
74modified is exactly right and there will be around $50 and some scrap steel invested in the shifter assembly. The CTS-V is a much better unit than the f-body T56 and actually came from a IRS car so with a little imagination it will fit into the Miata. 74modified also helped a lot with his images
#25
It does not have a huge effect on the car. I am just referring to the driveshaft setup and the fact that the CTS-V T56 does not use a slip yoke type driveshaft actually works for the miata since it is IRS which is what the flex coupler driveshaft type was designed for
#28
I am looking at something like the line in the link.
Has anybody tried this from the fuel tank to engine bay?
should I use 3/8 hard line?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...%2F8+fuel+line
Has anybody tried this from the fuel tank to engine bay?
should I use 3/8 hard line?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...%2F8+fuel+line
#29
Im going to be doing a LSx swap to my miata petty soon, i have a LQ4 with ls6 heads and manifold with a tsp tsunami cam. I just got the car about a months ago. Good luck with yours and thanks for the info on this build thread!!
#30
keep me posted on your build.
we are doing a LQ4 in my friend's Legacy GT
#31
I am looking at something like the line in the link.
Has anybody tried this from the fuel tank to engine bay?
should I use 3/8 hard line?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...%2F8+fuel+line
Has anybody tried this from the fuel tank to engine bay?
should I use 3/8 hard line?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...%2F8+fuel+line
http://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/...8142012239.jpg
You can bend it by putting it in boiling water for ~10 min. A heat gun works but can overheat. As for installing fittings you can buy repair kits.
And here is a thread (post 19 or so) for a DIY fitting press. The real tools ar very expensive.http://m.modernhemi.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1085884
#32
It is becoming common for the factories to use the nylon. One downside is bending and splicing. I am using this piece from a Buick. Nylon on both ends. I am using a return on my fuel rail.
http://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/...8142012239.jpg
You can bend it by putting it in boiling water for ~10 min. A heat gun works but can overheat. As for installing fittings you can buy repair kits.
And here is a thread (post 19 or so) for a DIY fitting press. The real tools ar very expensive.http://m.modernhemi.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1085884
http://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/...8142012239.jpg
You can bend it by putting it in boiling water for ~10 min. A heat gun works but can overheat. As for installing fittings you can buy repair kits.
And here is a thread (post 19 or so) for a DIY fitting press. The real tools ar very expensive.http://m.modernhemi.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1085884
I'll give it a shot.
#35
I used steel braided fuel line from the tank to the filter and return. Also for the feed up to the engine. I'd be a little worried about using nylon under the car without some serious heat/abrasion resistant covering. Especially now after seeing how much heat is generated underneath the car. I also wrapped the braided line with heat tape where it runs near the exhaust and engine.
#37
Did you buy the wiring kit or did it yourself? Do you have the schematics? Could use something to double check my work from. I am planning to run the fuel line through a rubber hose to cover it and protect.
#38
I modified the gto harness myself. I'll dig up my wiring diagrams when i get home and snap a picture of them.
It's nice that you don't have to use anything at all from the Mazda engine harness.
It's nice that you don't have to use anything at all from the Mazda engine harness.
#39
That's great. We have the 99-00 wiring book which from what I saw is mostly the same as the 01+. We are going to use the truck harness that came with the motor. I plan to start trimming off all the unnecessary connections (Auto trans, etc.) this weekend and then we will reloom it.
#40
did you eliminate the mazda OEM key chip security thing?