My 1965 Buick Skylark L92/6L80 Swap
#442
The car is going to be sidelined for a few months while I save up my pennies. As of now it looks like the TSP 416 cube short block. Plenty of time to keep shopping though.
#443
Old School Heavy
iTrader: (16)
Well, a stroker would mean you won't have to step up your converter. I have found those AES 3.9 stroke shortblocks interesting. Supposedly that slightly shorter stroke is supposed to side load the piston less. With a big bore motor like yours, I think they are still over 400". Maybe I just like the 3.9 stroke because I am a Buick guy. LOL
#445
A little update on the direction I am going from this unexected disaster. Money is the problem and I will have to put it into key areas. Here is where I am at so far. It looks like ATK has the best pricing and they are using Manley forged internals. $4899 shipped. Has 415 cubes and 11.3:1 compression
I will retain the VVT style cam as that is the cheapest route versus converting over to the LS3 style. It looks like the specs will be 235/247 @ .050". The lift will be .621/.624 with a 114 +3 on the LSA. That should get the valve events right and have a decent idle. I am looking for peak power around 6200rpm and shift by 6500rpm.
I will retain the VVT style cam as that is the cheapest route versus converting over to the LS3 style. It looks like the specs will be 235/247 @ .050". The lift will be .621/.624 with a 114 +3 on the LSA. That should get the valve events right and have a decent idle. I am looking for peak power around 6200rpm and shift by 6500rpm.
#446
Teching In
A little update on the direction I am going from this unexected disaster. Money is the problem and I will have to put it into key areas. Here is where I am at so far. It looks like ATK has the best pricing and they are using Manley forged internals. $4899 shipped. Has 415 cubes and 11.3:1 compression
I will retain the VVT style cam as that is the cheapest route versus converting over to the LS3 style. It looks like the specs will be 235/247 @ .050". The lift will be .621/.624 with a 114 +3 on the LSA. That should get the valve events right and have a decent idle. I am looking for peak power around 6200rpm and shift by 6500rpm.
I will retain the VVT style cam as that is the cheapest route versus converting over to the LS3 style. It looks like the specs will be 235/247 @ .050". The lift will be .621/.624 with a 114 +3 on the LSA. That should get the valve events right and have a decent idle. I am looking for peak power around 6200rpm and shift by 6500rpm.
#447
Hi Pat
The camshaft is not 100% decided on as of yet. I have feelers out to some respected cam people and I am waiting on what they say. I have a good idea of what I want and the valve events. That is three people now with close to the same recomendation. I find that unusual.
I am still toying with the idea of going up to a 237 degree cam on the intake. The rule of thumb is 10 degrees for evey 50 inch increase or 1 degree for every five inches. I want to tone mine down a notch so that is why I am backing off of that some. The old combination peaked at 6500rpm and I would rather have the 416 motor peak in the 6200 range and shift at 6500rpm. The .8 increase in compression will help tame things which is not accounted for in the rule of thumb.
The camshaft is not 100% decided on as of yet. I have feelers out to some respected cam people and I am waiting on what they say. I have a good idea of what I want and the valve events. That is three people now with close to the same recomendation. I find that unusual.
I am still toying with the idea of going up to a 237 degree cam on the intake. The rule of thumb is 10 degrees for evey 50 inch increase or 1 degree for every five inches. I want to tone mine down a notch so that is why I am backing off of that some. The old combination peaked at 6500rpm and I would rather have the 416 motor peak in the 6200 range and shift at 6500rpm. The .8 increase in compression will help tame things which is not accounted for in the rule of thumb.
#448
A little update on the direction I am going from this unexected disaster. Money is the problem and I will have to put it into key areas. Here is where I am at so far. It looks like ATK has the best pricing and they are using Manley forged internals. $4899 shipped. Has 415 cubes and 11.3:1 compression
I will retain the VVT style cam as that is the cheapest route versus converting over to the LS3 style. It looks like the specs will be 235/247 @ .050". The lift will be .621/.624 with a 114 +3 on the LSA. That should get the valve events right and have a decent idle. I am looking for peak power around 6200rpm and shift by 6500rpm.
I will retain the VVT style cam as that is the cheapest route versus converting over to the LS3 style. It looks like the specs will be 235/247 @ .050". The lift will be .621/.624 with a 114 +3 on the LSA. That should get the valve events right and have a decent idle. I am looking for peak power around 6200rpm and shift by 6500rpm.
Let me know when you are ready to pull the trigger, I can help you out a little bit more
Brandon
#449
#451
Hahahaha. Now I am stressing out on the camshaft selection. What is interesting is I have DynoSim5 and I am entering all these camshaft specifications with the different valve events and the one that comes out the best is the camshaft that is currently installed in the car. My VVT 231/239 at 113 +3. This can drive a person crazy.
#452
Old School Heavy
iTrader: (16)
DynoSim is an interesting toy to play with, but I would not put much stock in the software's "ideal" iterations. I would be wanting to work with a cam guy who has a lot of real world experience with similar combos. What made me laugh about DynoSim is that I changed the head flow file dramatically and it still said the ideal duration split for every cam was 8 degrees. LOL
#453
DynoSim is an interesting toy to play with, but I would not put much stock in the software's "ideal" iterations. I would be wanting to work with a cam guy who has a lot of real world experience with similar combos. What made me laugh about DynoSim is that I changed the head flow file dramatically and it still said the ideal duration split for every cam was 8 degrees. LOL
#455
I will go look for it. Meanwhile another cam spec cam in. They are all running in the same area so that makes my life easier. 235-237 on the intake. 242-247 on the exhaust. 114 +2 or +3.
#456
Here is the latest update. I found I could get a forged 427 short block at the same price. Comes with Callies forged crank, h-beam rods and forged -5cc JE pistons. 4.100" stroke and a 4.070" bore.
Compression will be 11.4:1 with the dynamic around 8.3:1. Should be fine for 91 octane.
I plan on the shift to be completed by 6500-6600 rpm. No power adders. Waiting on the cam people to get back with me. Should not be much different if any than the previous cam that was quoted. If I was going with power adders I would have gone with the ATK short block and drop it back down to the 415 cube range.
Compression will be 11.4:1 with the dynamic around 8.3:1. Should be fine for 91 octane.
I plan on the shift to be completed by 6500-6600 rpm. No power adders. Waiting on the cam people to get back with me. Should not be much different if any than the previous cam that was quoted. If I was going with power adders I would have gone with the ATK short block and drop it back down to the 415 cube range.
#457
I see this snowballing BIGTIME. LAMO TF
#458
The good thing about it is the cost is not snowballing. The only added cost might be to get the torque converter re-stalled. I am still not sure on that due to all the added torque. The other things such as a new Melling oil pump I would do anyways.
#459
I mean the engine seems to be getting bigger.
#460
A little update as to where the project is at. The 427 short block has shipped and will be at the auto mechanics this coming Thursday. New camshaft, LS7 lifters, Manton 11/32" pushrods, Melling oil pump, Cloyes timing chain set with the C5R chain and other items will be ordered the first week in August.
In the mean time I have finally figured out what to do about the speakers. Here is a photo of the passenger side kick out panels with the speaker. I have to paint them blue to match the originals. These are the ones without factory A/C. Mine have vents and these will work with them.
In the mean time I have finally figured out what to do about the speakers. Here is a photo of the passenger side kick out panels with the speaker. I have to paint them blue to match the originals. These are the ones without factory A/C. Mine have vents and these will work with them.
Last edited by 1989GTA; 07-26-2014 at 06:29 PM. Reason: Correct spelling and a couple of other items.