My 1965 Buick Skylark L92/6L80 Swap
11-13-2017, 09:32 AM
#681
TECH Resident
that is cool. Nice job! BTYW - those relay boards could turn the lights on for hours or days. they are highly adjustable. I think they are $8 each on Amazon.
I use one to run a 12V PC fan inside my boat to dry things out for four days after an outing.
Doug
I use one to run a 12V PC fan inside my boat to dry things out for four days after an outing.
Doug
11-13-2017, 12:36 PM
#682
You are correct depending on which version relay board you get. The key for me was the Scott Drake LED flasher. It kept the "on voltage" long enough so that everything could cycle through. I went through 4 LED flashers before I found one that would work for my application.
11-13-2017, 01:05 PM
#683
I added LED sequential tail lights to the car. I had to make my own as the kits do not seem to work right with the 1157 style LED bulb. I used the Sylvania Zevos red 1157 LED bulb. The key to this thing was the Scott Drake led flasher. The "on" portion for the flasher is a little longer than most and it is adjustable.
I used 4 on delay relay boards, 2 per side. Pictures below and all wired up per side. Here is a link to the YouTube video, my first I might add. By the way the 2nd half of the video is with the brakes on. Edit: one more thing is that the parts came in at under $60. Now I did have the wire and Molex connectors on hand. With the volume on you can hear the car idling.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BdIpJqGInew
I used 4 on delay relay boards, 2 per side. Pictures below and all wired up per side. Here is a link to the YouTube video, my first I might add. By the way the 2nd half of the video is with the brakes on. Edit: one more thing is that the parts came in at under $60. Now I did have the wire and Molex connectors on hand. With the volume on you can hear the car idling.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BdIpJqGInew
11-14-2017, 06:43 AM
#685
Could you share a detailed write up on how you wired the Scott drake flasher and taillight wiring, and/or part numbers or links to the exact parts you used? I’ve been looking to do something like this on my car which is the same year and model as yours. Thanks in Advance
11-14-2017, 12:22 PM
#686
I will start with the flasher. It is a Scott Drake STL-EVF-13350 Flasher. I remote mounted it on a piece of aluminum flat stock .125" X .500" wide and maybe 3-4" long. Then mounted it to the 1/4-20 bolt that holds the parking brake release. Remove the old flasher. The orange wire goes to +12v in the flasher socket. The blue wire goes to the stop lights/turn signal output in the flasher socket. The black wire is a ground wire. I just used the one of the screws mounting the flasher to the aluminum flat stock to attach the ground wire to. This flasher is good for only 6 amps and I don't think it will supply enough current for standard 1157 bulbs. On the flasher adjustment I turned it to the faster speed which was about right for my application. You may have to adjust it differently for you setup.
On our cars the center tail lights are only wired for the running lights. I bought two new 1157 socket with two wires to replace them. This will allow the stop lights to be connected to the two center lights. I bought the Pico 5404PT 1157 socket and it fit like a charm. Our sockets are notched and they can only go in one way. You will need two. At this point I replaced the 1157 bulbs with Sylvania Zevo red 1157 LED bulbs. In the front I used the amber ones. Actually the Putco Laser Led bulbs but they are $35 each. The Amber Sylvania Zevo bulbs may be almost as good. The Putco's do put out some light but they are expensive.
On my car the drivers side stop light wire is a yellow wire. On the passenger side it is a green wire. The running lights are a brown wire. So reconnect the brown wire to the running lights. Then connect the yellow or green with to the stop lights.
Now to the sequential part. I used 4 of the boards in this link.
In the picture below I show how I did the drivers side with the yellow brake wire. I used molex connectors because I had them on hand. You can use what ever including butt splices. Couple of things. One is there is no need to cut into the brown running light wire unless you have too. Mine was already cut from the previous owner because he was trying to replace the old 1157 sockets with new ones that were not quite right as they did not fit into the holes properly and would fall out. Two, there is no need to cut into the brake light wire going into the center stop lights/turn signals. These will come on and stay on as long as the flasher is in the "on mode".
Now you do have to cut into the center and outer stop light wires. Green and Yellow on my car. These are the +12vdc. They will go into the +12vdc of the first relay board with the 2 connectors. The other side is a ground wire. I ran the ground wire(light green in the picture" up to one of the 1/4" studs that hold the tail light assembly to the car.
On the output side there is a 3 screw connector You only are going to use one of them as shown in the picture. There are two wires. One wire, yellow or green, will go to the center brake light socket. The other wire will feed in to the +12v side of the next relay module. That takes care of the center light.
Now to the outer light module. You have the +12v coming in from the previous module. Now you need to hook up another ground wire for the module. Again I ran a light green wire up to the same 1/4" stud as I used for the first module. On the out put side of the last module you just run it up to the outside tail light stop light/turn signal wire. Ignore the green wire on the far left in the picture, it should be yellow if keeping to my wiring colors. It was already in the car and I just reused it.
Now there are jumpers on the board. I did use S5 and S7. S7 I believe is the on delay for the relay. S5 feeds +12v to the relay common contact. S1 - S4 are the timing length jumpers. I left them alone as they were correct for me. I left the timer in the minimum position or close to it. I probably missed some things so just ask.
Edit: So basically the center stoplight/turn signals come on immediately. The center lights are slightly delayed and the outer light are further delayed. We are not talking much on the delay time. Tenths of a second. In the picture below the left socket is the outer tail light, the 2nd from left goes to the middle tail light and the 3rd from left to the center stop light. The one on the far right connects to the factory harness on my car. You will probably wire it up a little differently.
On our cars the center tail lights are only wired for the running lights. I bought two new 1157 socket with two wires to replace them. This will allow the stop lights to be connected to the two center lights. I bought the Pico 5404PT 1157 socket and it fit like a charm. Our sockets are notched and they can only go in one way. You will need two. At this point I replaced the 1157 bulbs with Sylvania Zevo red 1157 LED bulbs. In the front I used the amber ones. Actually the Putco Laser Led bulbs but they are $35 each. The Amber Sylvania Zevo bulbs may be almost as good. The Putco's do put out some light but they are expensive.
On my car the drivers side stop light wire is a yellow wire. On the passenger side it is a green wire. The running lights are a brown wire. So reconnect the brown wire to the running lights. Then connect the yellow or green with to the stop lights.
Now to the sequential part. I used 4 of the boards in this link.
In the picture below I show how I did the drivers side with the yellow brake wire. I used molex connectors because I had them on hand. You can use what ever including butt splices. Couple of things. One is there is no need to cut into the brown running light wire unless you have too. Mine was already cut from the previous owner because he was trying to replace the old 1157 sockets with new ones that were not quite right as they did not fit into the holes properly and would fall out. Two, there is no need to cut into the brake light wire going into the center stop lights/turn signals. These will come on and stay on as long as the flasher is in the "on mode".
Now you do have to cut into the center and outer stop light wires. Green and Yellow on my car. These are the +12vdc. They will go into the +12vdc of the first relay board with the 2 connectors. The other side is a ground wire. I ran the ground wire(light green in the picture" up to one of the 1/4" studs that hold the tail light assembly to the car.
On the output side there is a 3 screw connector You only are going to use one of them as shown in the picture. There are two wires. One wire, yellow or green, will go to the center brake light socket. The other wire will feed in to the +12v side of the next relay module. That takes care of the center light.
Now to the outer light module. You have the +12v coming in from the previous module. Now you need to hook up another ground wire for the module. Again I ran a light green wire up to the same 1/4" stud as I used for the first module. On the out put side of the last module you just run it up to the outside tail light stop light/turn signal wire. Ignore the green wire on the far left in the picture, it should be yellow if keeping to my wiring colors. It was already in the car and I just reused it.
Now there are jumpers on the board. I did use S5 and S7. S7 I believe is the on delay for the relay. S5 feeds +12v to the relay common contact. S1 - S4 are the timing length jumpers. I left them alone as they were correct for me. I left the timer in the minimum position or close to it. I probably missed some things so just ask.
Edit: So basically the center stoplight/turn signals come on immediately. The center lights are slightly delayed and the outer light are further delayed. We are not talking much on the delay time. Tenths of a second. In the picture below the left socket is the outer tail light, the 2nd from left goes to the middle tail light and the 3rd from left to the center stop light. The one on the far right connects to the factory harness on my car. You will probably wire it up a little differently.
Last edited by 1989GTA; 11-15-2017 at 12:33 PM.
