E_S

Hey,
I have this '89 Caprice Classic wagon. It came from the factory with carbed Olds 307 and TH200-4R, but some previous owner swapped the electronic carb with an old-style one and the TH200-4R with a TH350. I'd rate both as a downgrade..

I'm getting tired of constant problems with the carb, the general low power of the Olds 307, bad fuel economy due to the carb and the TH350 3-speed transmission etc., so I need to do someting.

Thinking about pulling it all and swapping in a 5.3 Vortec from an early 2000s truck as I can get one for a decent price. This will be combined with a 4L60E transmission and of course I will keep the injection and all.

I know the issues converting from Olds to normal smallblock Chevy engine and they are manageable. Just a few questions:

1. What extra is involved in installing a "newer" engine in this car? Wiring harness, computer etc. is no big problem, as I'll use a custom harness and ECM with immobilizer disabled.

2. What's involved in swapping in a 4L60E in a car that had a TH200-4R from factory except driveshaft length?

71monte-carlo

may have to mod the trans tunnel and fab a mount up. that would be a nice swap

E_S

Thanks for your reply! I think the tunnel might be good - isn't the 4L60E basically a TH700R4 with some more electronic stuff? The TH700R4 is pretty much the same dimension as the factory TH2004R, the TH350 doesn't belong there at all.

And yeah, I think it'd be a nice swap. Lots more power, better fuel economy, less prone to failures.

Will the stock intake from the truck work in the Caprice, or will it be too tall?

71monte-carlo

oh yeah, u did say it had a th2004r, well you may be good with tunnel as well as mount. from my understanding alot of ppl with that crossmember have very little fabbin to do. as far as the intake i'm not sure, i have a 71 monte so it fits there, but i've never even owned anything from the 80's

Denver Reggie

Hi ES, I see from your other posts you finally put a 4L60E in there. How well or poorly did it fit in the tunnel?

darren roar

iTrader: (1)

The th350 and the 2004r are the same size. The 4l60 and the 700r4 are the same size. To save some time and work you could use a 2004r without modification. A 700r4 will need a new mount. I had to raise my tunnel because of the mounting plates i used.

autocomman

This is totally relevant to what im lookin to do, hah. Also new to the forums. Ive got an Olds custom cruiser, the B body boat. I dropped a 350TBI in a few years ago, and it turned out ok, but im lookin at goin with a 5.3 or a 6.0 cause of 3 things, more power outa the box, better economy, and new tech. Either way I have the same questions...

Ive seen the adjustable mounts to bolt an LS style block and a 4L60E to the clamshell mounts, but what bracketry do you use for the accessories, can I use the stock manifolds, and anyone had any experience keeping the mechanical speedo and stock columns shifter with the 4L60E. This is dads car and it needs to stay stock looking, and smog legal. Wiring isnt an issue, makng the evap system work etc etc..but ya, bolting it in and accessories/exhaust.

Mark

bfurches

iTrader: (12)

Mine is a little on the extreme side (Front motor plate, mid plate, tubular crossmember, manual steering, solid body mounts)....

But I still try to drive it every nice day, and these photos should help give you some ideas....





I used the f-body pan, and set the engine back a lot. It clears without having to cut the cross-member up, and offers the most ground clearance....however I did have to massage the transmission tunnel to access the bell housing bolts. (but you may not need to as I dropped the body down on the frame a 1/2"

I used the run the motor with a carb, so disregard the intake....but this gives you an idea of where everything sat during original installation.






I believe you could get away with truck accessories using the set-back. I tried f-body stuff machined down to accomodate my motor plate, but it would have hit the crossmember (and I wasn't about to cut it up).

However, if you wanted power steering, and possibly AC, I think the truck brackets would be the way to go.

For headers....I am running Doug's F-Body (98-02) shorty LS1 headers. I cut the flanges off, deleted the egr ports and had them v-banded.





The passenger side fits awesome (but keep in mind I have no heater box....regardless they hug the engine tight). Drivers side was EXTREMELY close to the steering shaft collar.

I hope all this helps out.

bfurches

iTrader: (12)

....and of course some motivation:

CapriceLS

iTrader: (27)

I did the swap on my 89 caprice LS I just sold. Came from the factory with the 305 tbi... I used the stock Chevy engine and frame mounts with the transdapt 4572 adapter plates that put the engine in stock SBC location. I retained the truck oil pan and cleared everything but hung about 2-3 inches but never had a problem. As far as mounting the 4l60e to the crossmember, I bought a 1/4" steel plate to extend the mounting perch on the trans crossmember to the trans mount. Didn't have any tunnel issues what so ever... If you're looking for headers, the pacesetter f-bodies work great.. Driver side goes on with no mods. The passenger side just needs little tapping on one of the primaries(I think the #4).... Pretty easy swap.. You'll love it!!!

autocomman

Good info but I did a bunch of reading on the oil pan, hanging below the K-member isnt gonna work. Your just askin for it then, espically in los angeles where dips bumps and pot holes can pop outa of no where and bottom outa 4200 lb beast.

Autokraft makes a pretty shallow pan, anyone use that and have it clear? Also any issues using the stock column shifter and the 4l60e? I gotta find some CARB legal headers too as this is in a street legal car and needs to have a ref sticker when its all done

bfurches

iTrader: (12)

Like I said before....f-body pan.



...as you can tell....my car is pretty low, but the cross-member tucks the pan nicely.

autocomman

So F-body pan with adaptor plates and no cutting of the crossmember?? Just that simple?

bfurches

iTrader: (12)

I believe if you bought the "set-back" plates, the f-body pan would most likely fit.

I went with motor plates so I could place the engine directly where I wanted it, so I can comment for sure.

....measure twice, buy once...

autocomman

Those are the plates that slide with the notches then im guessing? and you didnt cut the k-member, heh i just wanna hear you say you didnt cut it, and exactly what mounts you used, there is so much info on this and so many combos of parts to do it i wanna get it right first time, and you did just what i wanna do, factory pan, no mods to the frame or pan

bfurches

iTrader: (12)

I dont have mounts....I have plates. Look at my pictures again. That big aluminum plate on the front of me engine IS the mount.

...and YES, I did NOT have to cut the crossmember or the pan. Both items are stock.

When referring to the set-back mounts, the adjustable ones you mentioned may be your best bet...however I was referring to the plates which set the engine back 1" from the stock sbc position (not positive this will work though).

autocomman

Ahh didnt look at the user name for those pics, haha. Dunno if i can move the motor back, I have to look but im pretty sure its close as it is. This car is staying stock and legal, so its keeping the HVAC box and everything else. I might even go with the R-4 brackets ive seen cause then i dont have to make new A/C lines, not that I haven't dont that before, but its just easier. F-body manifolds, as its not gonna be a racecar, and a truck 5.3 or 6.0 depending on what i find. That boat needs the 300 hp and 300 lb ft of torque.

But yeah, no pan below the crossmember, thats not gonna work lol. Prolly gonna start gathering parts in teh next few months, once I finish up an MG and Austin Healy project i have right now